Hi Cindy, can I ask if there is an advantage to using 5cm Velcro as opposed to the 2cm one that comes with the kit. If you chose to us a 5cm Velcro purchased separately, would you end up with 3cm Velcro not attached to the head rail? Is the buckram to give a better flat finish? Thank you for these amazing videos
In the tutorials and in the workroom, I always use velcro buckram along the top of my blinds. It gives them a really crisp and tidy finish at the top and helps to hold all the layers in place. Because the buckram is 5 cm deep, I use 5cm deep velcro to keep it all tidy and uniform. Yes, approx 2.5 cm velcro extends beyond the bottom of the mech but this isn’t seen from the front and, again, adds stability at the top of the blind. However, there is no reason why you can’t use 2 cm deep velcro with the buckram (you would have fabric extending below mech rather than velcro).
Hope you’re getting on ok Sylvie.
Hi, I am using 2cm Velcro which came with my headrail kit but don’t have any buckram. What is the benefit of using it please? Will my blind hang poorly if I don’t use buckram? The blind is 128x106cm in patterned fabric.
Great question. Your blind will be perfectly fine and will not hang poorly if you make it with the velcro supplied and no buckram. We just use the wider velcro and buckram to help our blinds hold their shape at the top.
Is there a reason that you use Velcro at the top rather than just stapling the fabric to the top batten?
Everyone makes roman blinds differently. We no longer use batons in the professional workshop due to EU regs on child blind safety so always use a mechanism - the blind cannot be stapled to it.
There is no reason why you can’t staple to the baton though if you prefer - you will need to make it longer and staple it to the top of the baton. We do not do this as feel it does not give a professional finish and makes batons difficult to attach particularly if fitted within the recess.
Thank you so much for this excellent tutorial. I can't believe how good my blind is looking. I am currently stitching the velcro by hand as shown in the last tutorial but its hard going on my fingers. I'm using a self threading needle size 9. Can I ask what needle you use or would recommend?
Are you watching the videos? We don't stitch through the velcro, we stitch to the fabric just below it. As for the needle it's personal preference but we like using long darning needle. Size 5 or size 7
Ive been following your instructions -blind looking great so far!
Please can you tell me do the stab stitches go through both the lining and the fabric ?
Yes they do to hold the blind together. The video fully explains and demonstrates how to stab stitch the blind.
I am using your very helpful instructions to make three Roman blinds for a bay window. I would ask you to clarify 'stab stitches' I assume this attaches the blind material to the lining at the rod pockets and goes through all layers. I just want to check that I have it right! Many thanks
Yes the stab stitch goes all the way through to the face fabric
but you try to make it show as little as possible. The video shows you
in detail how to stitch it and how little of the stitch you want to
I have bought your video and found it great for making my first blind, I couldn't do your rod pickets as I had thermal lining so made my own little pockets out of a different lining and stitched them on, I didn't get them quite as straight as I wanted to and my top rod pocket is about 5ml wider than the rest, I have tried to correct it as best as possible. When I come to stitch on my rings should I put them where the rod pocket should be on the top rod pocket or keep it 5ml out ? Also is 3 strings ok for a 117cm width blind ?
At the moment there are instructions written in red in the tutorial that
tell you how to make the blind with rod pocket tape rather than
traditional integral pockets. (They drop down if you click on them).
You attach the tape with one line of stitching NOT 2 lines, as the blind is pulled up on the stitch line of the pocket. With rod pocket tape you would usually have canvas loops in it for attaching breakout rings or threading the cord. With your homemade tape attach the rings/breakouts as we do in the tutorial.
As for things being 5mm out and adjusting the ring position, we would remake to make sure it is not 5mm out and everything is consistent rather than start moving things around. ( so have no experience of that to offer- but it sounds like it might work).
As as for the number of cords, this is covered in STEP 8 (stab stitching & attaching rings). We recommend the number of rings/cords there and their spacing. If you are using a Blind kit mechanism, use the number of cords provided and space accordingly (as in many countries now they have breakouts and each cord will only be able to pull so much weight before breaking away.)
Hi....2 queries please!
1. I'm assuming the Velcro tape is machined onto face fabric only, and not thru to lining?
2. My blind is 57cm wide....not sure whether to do 2 or 3 cord drops?
Loving the instructions, many thanks!
You could probably get away with 2 cord drops on a traditional blind,
but if you have a chain headrail go for the number of drops it was
supplied with as it will probably have breakouts and each cord will only
be able to take so much weight.
All the stitching and construction is shown in great detail in the videos.
When slip stitching the heading to the blind, should the stiches go all the way through to the front of the fabric or just stitched to the lining?
Full details of the construction method and stitches are shown in detail in the videos.
am now ready to put in stab stitches and rings. The blind is 114 cm wide. If I follow your instructions I will have a ring at 10cm from edge, either side, then 2 more in between and 31.3cm apart. That means I will end up with 4 strings to hold the blind up. Is that ok or a bit excessive? Thanks for your help
That is the number we recommend and would use, especially if you have
break outs that can only take so much tension on each cord. Most 120cm
blind kits come with 4 cords. (with a mechanism we would use the number
of cords supplied with it.)
Of course you can make it with less if you like, but the blinds are stiffer to pull up if you put too much weight on a cord. It will depend on the weight of your fabric/blind friction of the cords/eyelets you use etc.
when you attach the rings do you attach just to the rod pocket? or how do you do this? I understand the stab stitches in between the rings but confused as to how to attach rings and stab stitch at same time (with rod pocket in the way)
You Stab stitch first, insert the rods then sew the rings onto the rod
pockets after. All the stitches are demonstrated in detail in the
As a more or less complete beginner, I find these instructions informative, clear and easy to follow. The only thing I wish you'd show is how you handle blinds that are too big for your table. I'm using the floor but finding it all very painful on my back!
In the early days we bought a board and covered it with lining and put
it on top of the dining room table to give us enough surface to work
with at a more comfortable height. (I appreciate that is not possible
Thank you for your invaluable, detailed tutorial. I have used rod pocket tape so do I lift the tape up to put my stab stitches underneath the tape or do I put the stab stitches above the tape please?
We stitch through the tape on the stitch line you attached the rod
pocket to the lining. This is the point the cords will be pulling on the
blind as it is pulled up.
I have nearly finished making my lined blind. I have used rod pocket tape but this is only stitched on to the lining. Should this row of stitching holding it on go right through to the front fabric? The kit has little clips for the cord so these don't even go through any fabric.
With our method we dont stitch through to the face fabric with the rod
pockets. We stab stitch the layers together, which is the last job on
this page of the tutorial.
I have been following your videos making a lined blind with rod pockets. I have purchased a metal mechanism rail with which has 5 cord drops. My blind is 128cm long, spacing out the rings would make stab stitches req for rings at 10, 37, 64, 91 and 118 cm. This leaves 27cm gaps, would you add stab stitches in between - at 13.5 cm intervals which is less than you minimum, but if I don't the gaps will be greater than your maximum gap.
Thanks for any advice you can give me.
Yes always stab stitch more rather than less, we would stab stitch inbetween the rings.
I am using rod pocket tape, could you tell me do I stab stitch above, below or underneath the rod pocket tape? Also should I stab stitch every 10cm across as I don't need to use rings?
Finally, should I stab stitch along the fold line? Great videos and instructions, blind looking good so far. Many thanks
Stab stitch on the stitch line in the places specified in the
instructions. As you are not sewing on rings, stab stitch at the points
where there would have been rings.
Hello......I have made many roman blinds and like using your instructions and calculators.
One problem I always seem to have is that the velcro always seems to pull the top of the blind in so that the blind ends up a few mm narrower at the top....any ideas?
Walking foot on the machine will help with that.