BLIND SAFETY
Blind Safety

This website is viewed globally and at the last time of looking had been used by people from 136 different countries.

The instructions and videos on this website show you the traditional methods of making a roman blind. Many countries have introduced safety regulations with respect to child safety, to reduce the threat of injury or strangulation to young children from the cords of roman blinds.

It is your responsibilty to find out what the regulations are for your country and modify these instructions to make your blind compliant with those regulations

Examples of safety advice and rules used by some countries of the world are:

  • Do not place furniture or beds near windows where children can climb up and access the blind cords.
  • For roman blinds with rod pockets greater than 20cms apart at any point a breakaway device must be used on each cord.
  • The cleat must be 150cms from the floor and accumulate all/most of the cord – only a single cord of no more than 20cms can hang below the cleat.
  • The bottom loop of the chain or cord must be 150cms from the floor and secured with a safety device OR If the operating chain/cord has a breakaway device then the bottom loop of the cord/chain can be 60cms from the floor.
  • Some countries require that all the blind's components have been tested and certified when used together.

BLIND SAFETY
Blind Safety

This website is viewed globally and at the last time of looking had been used by people from 136 different countries.

The instructions and videos on this website show you the traditional methods of making a roman blind. Many countries have introduced safety regulations with respect to child safety, to reduce the threat of injury or strangulation to young children from the cords of roman blinds.

It is your responsibilty to find out what the regulations are for your country and modify these instructions to make your blind compliant with those regulations

Examples of safety advice and rules used by some countries of the world are:

  • Do not place furniture or beds near windows where children can climb up and access the blind cords.
  • For roman blinds with rod pockets greater than 20cms apart at any point a breakaway device must be used on each cord.
  • The cleat must be 150cms from the floor and accumulate all/most of the cord – only a single cord of no more than 20cms can hang below the cleat.
  • The bottom loop of the chain or cord must be 150cms from the floor and secured with a safety device OR If the operating chain/cord has a breakaway device then the bottom loop of the cord/chain can be 60cms from the floor.
  • Some countries require that all the blind's components have been tested and certified when used together.

Materials
  • - Fabric
  • - Lining
  • - Thread
  • - Velcro Loop Tape
  • - Cord
  • - Rods
  • - Bottom Bar
  • - Rings
  • Tools
  • - Sewing Machine
  • - Tape Measure
  • - Needles
  • - Scissors
  • - Set Square
  • - Straight Edge
  • - Invisible Marker
  • Options
  • - Invisible Marker
  • - Velcro Hook Tape
  • - Screw Eyes
  • - Acorn
  • - Cleat Hook
  • - Cord
  • - Staple Gun
  • or
  • - Headrail Kit
  • - Hacksaw
  • Watch the videos for full step by step tution of the instructions and expert tips from the workshop

    Video User Comments

    I love your videos they have given me the confidence to make my own curtains and blinds....Julie

    Your videos are so good, thank you…..Alex

    Once again, I should say that I think the video tutorials are extremely well done. Although I've been sewing for years I've learnt lots of techniques that are new to me and that give a much more professional finish........Heather

    Thank you for such brilliant tutorials and videos....... ....Barbara

    I have absolutely loved your videos for curtain making, I have learnt so much from you….Charlotte

    Step 7: Join Fabric Panel to Lining
    Printable Worksheet
    Printable Worksheet
    • Put the fabric right side down and clamp the bottom onto the table.
    • Smooth the fabric out then place the lining on top (lining right side up). There should be a 2cm margin of fabric down each side of the blind.
    • Smooth the lining out and adjust it so the bottom rod pocket is the correct distance up from the bottom of the fabric.
    • Fold the double hem up with the lining and fabric together, check the bottom rod pocket is the correct distance up from the bottom of the blind. (adjust lining if necessary)
    • Pin the lining to the fabric and check the rod pockets are square to the fabric sides and all the correct distance from the bottom.
    • Sew the lining in with a slip stitch down each side. Stop the slip stitch approx 1cm below where the top of the blind will be on each side. (note you will have excess fabric at the top at this stage)
    • Sew the top of the hem into place along the top with a slip stitch (not through to the front). Leave the sides open so the bottom bar can be inserted later.
    This video shows you
    • How to align the fabric and lining.
    • How to check the position of the rod pockets.
    • How we pin the lining and fabric together .
    • How to slip stitch.
    • How to start and finish your stitches.
    • How and why we slip stitch in sections rather than one continuos length.

    Extra Help & Comments

    Sew Helpful
    Post your questions and comments here, we will reply so everyone can see the answer. 
    Ros
    Is the slip stitch done by hand or on the machine?
    Thanks!
    Sew Helpful
    Hi Ros

    The slip stitch is done by hand, be careful not to stitch through to the face of the blind. The stitching is shown in detail in the videos.
    Ros
     Many thanks for your reply and for these great instructions they r much much better than any others I have found (including in books). I am delighted to say my blind is now almost finished and I am contemplating making a few more (as long as the one I have just made hangs ok!!!)
    sue
    hi im not good hand stitching can i machine lining to fabric with right sides together then turn and press
    Sew Helpful
    If you try this you will stitch the rod pocket ends up and will not be able to get the rods in.
    sue
    if i am using rod pocket tape can the lining and fabric be machine stitched together
    Sew Helpful
    Sounds like it should work, but we have never made a blind that way so can not really advise you on how to do it.

    Of course there are many ways to make a blind and we wish you well if you choose to adapt our instructions. If you decide to sew the rod pockets on afterwards through to the face fabric take great care they are square on and you sew a straight line.
    Margaret Alexander
    I would prefer to join top fabric and lining right sides together And then turn right side out. That way the stitches dont show, then apply rod pocket tape. The only thing is. I dont know how much wider the top fabric should be and how much of a seam allowance so that the width us correct. Do you have any suggestions. Thank you
    Sew Helpful
    Hi Margaret 
    The advice and help we offer is based on our tutorials and the tried and tested methods we use on a daily basis. The bag method you are using is not a way we make blinds for many reasons and as such we do not have any advice  to offer on techniques or seam allowances.
    Tricia
    I have laid the face fabric right side down and then placed the lining right side up, on top. The edge of the face fabric matches the lining on one side, but on the other, I have a 4 cm overlap. Could you please confirm whether or not the 2cm margin is referring to the lining (explaining why I have the 4cm overlap), or if it refers to the 2cm hem we placed on the lining earlier? Many thanks.
    Sew Helpful
    The lining panel is 4cm narrower than the fabric panel. It is positioned in the middle so there is 2cm of fabric showing down each side. The video shows you how to position it.
    judy
    when i have made blinds before, I have attached the lining to the blind just underneath each rod pocket (machine stitched) which i have found really difficult! is there an effective way of doing this by hand, or is it really necessary at all??
    Sew Helpful
    Yes we stab stitch a which is explained in the next step.
    Annette
    Hello
    Am about to join face and lining fabrics..... is there a reason why you couldn't sew them wrong sides together, and so 'sandwich/hide' the rod pockets between the 2 fabrics?
    Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    There is more than one way to make a roman blind. Our method is a tried and tested hand stitched method that we believe gives the best finish. If you sandwich the rod pockets inside the blind how are you going to put the rods in later?
    Kate
    When attaching the lining to the fabric do you lay the lining over the blind fabric and slip stich the bottom of the lining hem to the bottom edge of the fabric. Or do you fold it all up together to create the pocket for the bottom bar, (lining inside the fabric hem)?
    Sew Helpful
    Re-read the instructions above you may have missed a bit. You'll see you don't "slip stitch the bottom of the lining hem to the bottom edge of the fabric"

    you basically

    1. Fold the double hem up with the lining and fabric together. yes (lining inside the fabric hem)
    2. Sew the lining in with a slip stitch down each side.
    3. Sew the top of the hem into place along the top with a slip stitch

    All shown in detail in the videos
    Christana
    hi, I'm a bit of a slow learner and I've purchased viewing your videos to have an even better idea to have a greater understanding of what I am doing. I've managed to get hold of a set square, I now need to purchase the long ruler used in the video. Please could you sign post me to where I can buy this too. Thank you for your the information on blinds. Chtistana
    Sew Helpful
    The long steel ruler used in the videos is a 1m carpenters ruler that can be purchased from a builders merchant I think we bought that one from Travis Perkins.
    Rachel
    when you're slip sticking...are you actually taking a tiny bit of the face fabric which faces out - as well as obviously taking some of the face fabric which faces inside?

    Hope that makes sense!
    Sew Helpful
    The slip stitching is shown in detail in the videos.
    Marianne
    Hi, I am making roman blinds for the first time and I am finding your video and instructions very useful, thank you! I am now ready to join the lining to the fabric but both lining and fabric match exactly; I don't have 2cm spare either side, does that matter?

    Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    You have gone wrong somewhere following the instructions. We would remake the lining to the correct width rather than try and sew it on the back. 
    Janet Knight
    Fantastic website . I have made many Roman blinds always using the traditional method . This time I've used a kit and followed your instructions implicitly. The resulting three blinds are the best , most professional I have ever made . Thank you.
    Sew Helpful
    Thanks for the comments, it would be great to see some photos.
    Bryony
    Hi i am wondering if there is a maximum optimal width for a roman blind because i wonder if there a risk of the fiberglass rods bending under the weight of a heavier weight fabric used on a wide window?
    Sew Helpful
    The fibre glass rods don't really bend any more because you put more cords along their length that support them when the blind is pulled up.

    That said a wider blind is harder to make well than a narrower one though as any small errors can be amplified along it's length.
    Vina
    I am making 3 roman blinds and was wandering if 34cm will be very big fold as the finished length is 158cm, 160cm and third one 167cm drop. would appreciate your help with the number of folds. thank you
    Sew Helpful
    Ultimately it is personal choice and a design decision. For us that would be too big with the blind too deep when pulled up. There are Roman Blind fold calculators for standard blinds and cascading blinds on the website. You can play around with the number of folds on those and it will tell you the depth of the blind when pulled up and rod pocket spacing.
    Bev
    My completed blinds appear to dip down in the middle of the blind and the folds are not straight. I gave positioned the cords 10 cm in at each side, and one in the centre of the blind. Any ideas what might be causing the folds not to be completely level?
    Sew Helpful
    Did you follow the techniques in the videos?

    email us a photo to help@sew-helpful.com
    Bev
    Thanks, I've played around with the tension on my cords and it appears to have helped to get the folds level and straight.
    Bev
    My completed blinds appear to dip down in the middle of the blind and the folds are not straight. I gave positioned the cords 10 cm in at each side, and one in the centre of the blind. Any ideas what might be causing the folds not to be completely level?
    katie
    Hi, Thanks for the awesome instructions. Just getting everything sorted in my head before I start. I am cutting blind fabric to finished width + 10cm and cutting lining to width. This would leave 5cm on each side rather than 2cm...am I missing a step?
    Sew Helpful
    The fabric and lining are folded in different amounts.

    Step 5 - fold the lining sides in 2cm (the lining panel is then 4cm narrower than the blind width)
    Step 6 - fold the fabric sides in 5cm (the fabric panel will then be the width of the blind).
     
    Fiona
    Thanks for these superb instructions. I'm using blackout lining and I saw on Step 4 your answer to a query about using that and wrapping the Face Fabric over the top of the blackout lining at the sides. Would I need to add any extra allowance to the width of the Face Fabric for this method, i.e. more than the 5 cm each side? And should it be folded twice to enclose the raw edge of the Face Fabric? Thanks.
    Sew Helpful
    The information and photos we gave someone are on the previous page in the comments section. It shows how the side turns are made.
    Lesley
    i have made the rod pockets out of the lining as described, when i hand stitch the lining to the fabric how will i get the rods in if sides stitched down ?
    Sew Helpful
    You dont stitch the pocket ends closed at this stage. Have you watched the videos?
    Julia Savory
    Thanks for the great tutorial. Getting a nice crisp finish!
    Can you tell me where you get your clamps from. Thanks.
    Sew Helpful
    You should be able to find them on ebay.
    Linda
    I have seen the at screwfix too
    Linda
    Great instructions and videos. My first attempt at a Roman blind is going well so far. I am making a blackout blind and at the moment I am using a layer of bonded blackout interlining between the face fabric and the ordinary lining with rod pockets. I have put the smooth side to the face fabric and have the fluffy side facing the back. Would you now herringbone or slip the side turnings to the blackout just going through the interlining? Then slip the cotton lining in place as shown in the video? I am hoping this will mean I have blackout all the way to the edges of the blind and the only holes will be when I stab stitch. Is this a good way to proceed please?
    Sew Helpful
    Hi Linda,

    This is a bit complicated, you are on the lined blind tutorial page asking about modifying the interlined blind method. With what you have done you would herringbone in the blackout interlining.

    We will eventually make a tutorial for blackout blinds
    Linda
    Sorry if I have asked the question in the wrong place. I am trying to read between the lines of the various bits of very useful advice you have given on blackout blinds. I have now herringbones in the bonded black outlining and it has worked well. However I used a little water on the lining to remove some vanishing lines to redo a rod pocket. This resulted in a line of shrinkage across my bond lining. I tried to work round it but in the end I am making another lining panel in the hope it will be perfectly square!
    Sew Helpful
    Hi Linda we will be publishing a full tutorial on blackout blinds showing the current method we use in the workshop. Unfortunately the tutorials take a long time to write, video, edit  and proof read.
    Jane
    Hi, I'm making my first roman blinds and have found your tutorials very helpful, thanks.
    I'm using blackout linings and have cut the lining to the finished blind size as the front fabric is very bulky. (It's also difficult to handle - linen and viscose!). I've hand stitched all around the first blind but when I hold it up the front fabric droops in several places, would you please advise if this is to be expected until the rods and bottom bar are put in to give it structure, or do I need to un-pick and do something different before getting to that point? Any advice gratefully received, thanks. Jane
    Sew Helpful
    Without looking the blind over it is difficult to tell (it shouldn't sag). Are you sure you cut and made it square. (our techniques are in the videos).
    Jane
    Hi, Sorry for posting twice, I got a message that said error and I couldn't see my first message. I spent absolutely ages getting it straight and square and think it's ok on that front. I have stitched it right through to include the front fabric- have done a lot of hand stitching and this can't be seen on front but I'm wondering is this a mistake? I thought it would help to keep it all secure and steady but perhaps it's too restrictive? Presumably if it sags now it will continue to do so once in place?
    Sew Helpful
    Have you the videos?
    Jane
    Hi, My first attempt at roman blinds, thanks for your very informative and helpful instructions.
    I'm using a heavy linen/viscose mix and blackout lining, which I cut to the finished size of blind, W126cm x D135cm. Have attached 2 rows of rod tape and hand stitched all round the blind. I've pinned where stab stitches will be, however when I lift the blind up the front fabric sags in places. I'd be most grateful if you would advise, is this usual until the rods, bottom bar and strings are inserted to provide structure or do I need to re-think? Thanks, Jane
    Heather
    Website is brilliant - have told my local fabric shop about it. Instructions are very comprehensive but when using rod pocket tape could you not fold the 1 cm surplus tape on the edges in when you sew the edges as the rods can be inserted through slits in the tape?
    Sew Helpful
    We do that in STEP 9 after the rods have been fitted, You can do it your way (there are many permutations). If you do it after the rods are fitted though in STEP 9 you are less likely to have a problem putting the rods in.

    We are planning to make some stand alone instructions for those using tape with videos, It's not what we usually use in the workshop as we tend to make traditional lingings with intergral pockets. We added the rod pocket notes  to these instructions as so many people were asking.
    Karen Long
    Hi,
    I’ve made a few blinds now following your instructions which are great thank you! However, I’m a bit puzzled over one step. I cut the width of the lining to the width of the finished blind. When joining the fabric to the lining your instructions state that there should be a 2cm margin of fabric...I always have 5cm each side as that is the turn allowance for each side...?...am I doing my measurements wrong...?
    Sew Helpful
    The comment is referring to the fabric showing after the lining has been laid onto the fabric.

    The fabric is the width of the blind after 5cm is turned in on each side. The lining panel (with it's 2cm side turns) is 4cm narrower than the fabric. When you lay the lining on the fabric there will be a 2cm border of fabric showing on each side.

    The video shows the checking of 2cm on each side when positioning the lining on the fabric.
     
    Laura Harriott
    Is lining essential? I am looking to make sheer roman blinds - is there anything I need to do differently? Thanks for your help!
    Sew Helpful
    Making a sheer blind, you have no lining and the pockets are made from the face fabric, You hem the sides and bottom. We would use clear rods, rings and bottom bar.

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