BLIND SAFETY
Blind Safety

This website is viewed globally and at the last time of looking had been used by people from 136 different countries.

The instructions and videos on this website show you the traditional methods of making a roman blind. Many countries have introduced safety regulations with respect to child safety, to reduce the threat of injury or strangulation to young children from the cords of roman blinds.

It is your responsibilty to find out what the regulations are for your country and modify these instructions to make your blind compliant with those regulations

Examples of safety advice and rules used by some countries of the world are:

  • Do not place furniture or beds near windows where children can climb up and access the blind cords.
  • For roman blinds with rod pockets greater than 20cms apart at any point a breakaway device must be used on each cord.
  • The cleat must be 150cms from the floor and accumulate all/most of the cord – only a single cord of no more than 20cms can hang below the cleat.
  • The bottom loop of the chain or cord must be 150cms from the floor and secured with a safety device OR If the operating chain/cord has a breakaway device then the bottom loop of the cord/chain can be 60cms from the floor.
  • Some countries require that all the blind's components have been tested and certified when used together.

BLIND SAFETY
Blind Safety

This website is viewed globally and at the last time of looking had been used by people from 136 different countries.

The instructions and videos on this website show you the traditional methods of making a roman blind. Many countries have introduced safety regulations with respect to child safety, to reduce the threat of injury or strangulation to young children from the cords of roman blinds.

It is your responsibilty to find out what the regulations are for your country and modify these instructions to make your blind compliant with those regulations

Examples of safety advice and rules used by some countries of the world are:

  • Do not place furniture or beds near windows where children can climb up and access the blind cords.
  • For roman blinds with rod pockets greater than 20cms apart at any point a breakaway device must be used on each cord.
  • The cleat must be 150cms from the floor and accumulate all/most of the cord – only a single cord of no more than 20cms can hang below the cleat.
  • The bottom loop of the chain or cord must be 150cms from the floor and secured with a safety device OR If the operating chain/cord has a breakaway device then the bottom loop of the cord/chain can be 60cms from the floor.
  • Some countries require that all the blind's components have been tested and certified when used together.

Materials
  • - Fabric
  • - Lining
  • - Thread
  • - Velcro Loop Tape
  • - Cord
  • - Rods
  • - Bottom Bar
  • - Rings
  • Tools
  • - Sewing Machine
  • - Tape Measure
  • - Needles
  • - Scissors
  • - Set Square
  • - Straight Edge
  • - Invisible Marker
  • Options
  • - Invisible Marker
  • - Velcro Hook Tape
  • - Screw Eyes
  • - Acorn
  • - Cleat Hook
  • - Cord
  • - Staple Gun
  • or
  • - Headrail Kit
  • - Hacksaw
  • Step 1: Measure the Window
    Printable Worksheet
    Printable Worksheet

    First decide whether you want the blind to hang inside or outside the recess.

    INSIDE THE RECESS

    Measure FINISHED BLIND LENGTH:

    • Measure the drop from the top of the recess to the window sill in 3 places (each side and the middle). Take the shortest measurement as your finished blind length.

    Measure FINISHED BLIND WIDTH:

    • Measure the width of the window recess in 3 places and use the shortest width as your measurement. This will give you the finished blind width.

    OUTSIDE THE RECESS

    Measure FINISHED BLIND LENGTH:

    • Decide where the batten that will support the blind will be fixed above the window recess. Mark the position of the top of the batten and measure down to the sill. This will give you the finished blind length.

    Measure FINISHED BLIND WIDTH:

    There are 3 options for the finished width of the blind outside the recess.

    • If the window has an architrave surround measure the width of the architrave at its widest point.
    • If there is a window sill measure the width of the window sill.
    • If there is no architrave meaure the width of the opening at its widest point. Add 12cm to give the finished blind a 6cm overlap each side.

    Choose one of these 3 options and measure to get your finished blind width.

    Extra Help & Comments

    Sew Helpful
    Post your questions and comments here, we will reply so everyone can see the answer. 
    Val Shelley
    I have made my first blind but do not feel it hangs as well as I wanted. Is there a rule as to the material you use.
    Sew Helpful
    There are no rules but some fabrics do make up better than others. I prefer to work with natural fabrics such as cottons and linens as I personally feel synthetic fabrics do not make up as well. 
    I avoid pocketed fabrics where 2 fabric layers are woven together when making a blind as that type of fabric doesnt tend to sit smoothly. 

    I also avoid using checks when making a blind,  especially if using a full width as the selvedge at the sides of the fabric panel are tighter woven so can cause a slight bend in the check at the sides.

    However with regard to your blind, can you send pictures of it pulled up and let down. We then may be able to offer some advice.

    Send any photos to help@sew-helpful.com.
    Anna
    I have some lovely material for 3 blinds and was going to use lining which already has interlining backing to help keep the warmth in. Is it too bulky to use for lining blinds?

    Would I be able to make rod pockets with it or should I use tape for the rods.

    If I use tape, do you measure the length of the lining without adding any allowance for rod pockets or do you allow the approx 1.5cm width of the tape or the 0.7cm width of the rod before measuring up to the next pocket (from the bottom!)

    Thank you
    Sew Helpful
    With a combined lining-interliner we would advise using rod tape rather than forming rod pockets due to its thickness. 

    You are right that you do not need to add any extra lining into the calculation to form the rod pockets. The back of the blind will effectively be a flat panel of lining with the rod pockets sewn onto it. 

    Measuring in the rod pockets will depend on the tape you are using. The crucial factor is that your sew line that attaches the tape to the lining is where you've calculated the rod be. As this sew line will be the point the tape pulls on the blind.

    Nicola Clough
    I have three roman blinds to make for my son for a large bay window. Each blind is 96cm wide and 259cm drop. He wants blackout lining to eliminate the street light outside.

    a) Would it be too heavy to use interlined lining and a blackout sheet inbetween? Would blackout alone be OK?

    b) Should I use a cassette with chain winder (which may taked ages to raise considering the drop) also non of the chains seem long enough.
    or should I just make a cord pull-up? I appreciate the cord would be long. Would it be stable enough?

    Thank you
    Sew Helpful
    The choice of whether to interline or not comes down to how insulating you want the blinds to be. 

    INTERLINING

    If you wanted to interline, we would just line the blinds with a single combined blackout-interliner lining,  Personally we would not make the blinds with a separate blackout lining and separate interliner as we think they will come out too thick and bulky.

    BLACKOUT BLINDS

     
    When making blackout blinds we use a slightly different technique to the one in this tutorial. We make the blind with the blackout lining to the edge of the blind (not 2cm in) so the light is blocked out across the entire blind. We also use rod pocket tape as the blackout lining is too thick to form rod pockets with. (Another tutorial to be made at some point)

    CASSETTE OR TRADITIONAL CORD

    We tend to use Cassettes with large blinds and in bay windows. (just personal preference again)

    Cassettes are safer with children as you will not have the long cord hanging down which will be very long for these blinds when pulled up. You can buy chains made to any length and I believe there are some geared systems that would pull up quicker if you are worried about that. However these things cost more money (especially when multiplying by 3). The beauty of cassettes are that it is easy to move the blind to any position, let go and it stays there.

    I am not quite sure what you mean by a cord being stable enough.

    A BAY WINDOW

    Finally it can be a challenge getting your blinds to line up and match up when hanging them side by side in a bay.

    HERE IS SOME ADVICE we gave someone else this week.

    The big consideration with blinds in a bay is setting your battens out working out their correct lengths. Either template or fix them in place before you measure for the blinds. If you just take measurements from  the window you will find the battens are too long  and the blinds are too wide when you come to to fix them in place as they sit away from the window ( a bit like if you draw a triangle inside a triangle the triangle inside has to have shorter sides).

    Once you have your battens up we usually leave a small gap between them then measure your blind widths and drops, ( it wont matter if your blinds are SLIGHTLY wider than the batten it gives you some room to adjust their position on the batten Velcro). with the battens up you\'ll then have a much better chance of getting them the right width so they will butt  up against each other. The centre blind is the crucial one to get the width right.



    Sew Helpful

    Cathy Lawson
    Hello there,

    Just following on from this post. I'm looking to make some blinds for my bay window (3 separate blinds). There are currently venetian blinds insitu. Would you still recommend setting the battens out or could I just use width and drop measurements from the current blinds? Sorry if this seems like a silly question. This will be my first blind project.

    Kindest regards,
    Cathy
    Sew Helpful
    Can"t really say without seeing the windows and blinds. The venetians will give you a good idea of sizes but you will have to buy your rails/battens anyway and cutting them down and fitting them before will give you the best measurements.

    If you fix the battens any further or nearer the window it will have an affect on the spacing between the blinds. We would fit first if we can.
    Margaret Alexander
    Is the lining cut exactly the same measurements as the front fabric. Or is there a rule for this. Thank you
    Sew Helpful
    Please read Step 4 which explains how to calculate the lining quantity  

    Extract from Step 4

    LINING CUT WIDTH

    The lining is narrower than the fabric and the Cut Width is equal to the Finished Width of the blind.

    • Cut Width (lining) = Finished Width of blind

    LINING CUT DROP

    The lining is longer than the fabric though due to the rod pockets.



    Step 5 then explains how to make up the linings.
    Chris
    What is the difference between a lined and interlined roman blind please?
    Sew Helpful
    A lined roman blind has 2 layers, it is made from your fabric and backed with cotton lining.

    An interlined roman blind has 3 layers, it is made from your fabric, a layer of interlining sandwiched in the middle and backed with cotton lining.

    The interlined blind is thicker, more insulating and sumptuous. 

    Of course that is not the whole story, as you can use a blackout lining, or a thicker combined lining-interlining on the lined roman blind rather a cotton lining to make it thicker and heavier. If you were to use these heavier linings though we would suggest you use rod pocket tape rather than try and form the rod pockets with these heavier linings.
    Linda Robertson
    I have two windows in my lounge, which I want to hang Roman blinds. The largest of these windows is 235cm in the recess. Should I make two blinds to hang in the space or would one look better? Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    Without seeing the window and room thats a difficult question to answer. Send us a photo to help@sew-helpful.com and we will let you know what we would do.
    Joyce Robinson
    I have made a roman blind with blackout lining but when the blind is pulled the stich lines where the rod pocket is attached stand out like a sore thumb. What can I do to rectify this.
    Sew Helpful
    If you mean the pinpricks of light that can show along the stitch lines for the rod pocket tape on the blackout lining, we do not have a solution for this unfortunately.

    udate - (We have heard of people using tipex but have never tried it! )

    c ashwell
    I made my roman shade only out of blackout fabric. To hide the pinholes I sewed coloured ribbon along the stitching line from side to side. It dressed it up and hid the sewing holes.
    Teresa
    I am making a Roman Blind in which the length is 162cm. Would it be right to calculate the rod pockets minus the head rail allowance divided by 13 which means there will be 6 rod pockets.
    Sew Helpful
    Im sorry Teresa,  I dont understand your question. Have you tried looking at the example calculation in step 2.
    Joyce
    I am making a blind measuring 63.5 cm wide and 89.5 cm drop,do I need to take off 1 cm off these two measurements for better fitting
    I feel the blind will rub on the sides and the bottom hem will touch the sill making it dirty,please advise
    Sew Helpful
    We would make the blind to these measurements provided they are the shortest width and drop in the window recess. 1cm less would create too much of a gap for us. Sometimes if the window is not square you will have to reduce the width measurement to make sure it doesnt rub on the sides.
    Margy
    I have two blinds to make, both on the same wall but with a cupboard between them. One window is larger than the other by just a few cms. Do I make both blinds the same size as the larger one, or do I make the blinds to fit the windows relevant to their sizes? The curtain drop is the same, the width is different by 1 1/2 cms. There is room for the smaller window to be made up to the same width as the larger window but I want to be sure what is the best way to approach this.
    Sew Helpful
    If the blinds are in the recess we would make them to fit the recess. If they are outside the recess you do have the option to make them both the same size. It really comes down to a design decision, there is no right or wrong answer. You just need to look at the situation and think/decide what will look best.

    Helen
    I intend to make a blind which will be 180cm wide but only 110cm drop. I thought I would use material horizontally so that I won't need to join widths. I have taken on board your comments on check fabric but would it still apply if I use it horizontally, and what about a stripe fabric used this way? Your advice would be appreciated.
    Sew Helpful
    Every fabric is different some will work fine others may cause problems. There is no reason a check or stripe should not work used horizontally. You just need to take into account the potential bend in the stripe or check you can get with some fabrics. When picking your fabric roll it out and see if it is going to cause you this type of problem.
    Mary mcpike
    Hi, I have pelmets on my windows which are wider than the window so I am not sure whither to make my blinds the width of the window or the width of the pelmet. The pelmets are about 6inch wider either side of the window. Thanks Mary
    Sew Helpful
    There is no standard answer for this it is a design decision. We made one the other day where the blind was made to the width of the sill and extended the pelmet out 4cm either side of the blind.

    Go to our facebook page to see a photo https://www.facebook.com/SewHelpful 
    Richard
    Hello
    I am wanting to make an interlined roman blind for a very wide window (310cm) with a drop of 117cm. Will it be ok to use a traditional wooden batten with cords as the only kits I could find were horrendously expensive. I am just concerned that it will work once fitted!
    Sew Helpful
    That is a really big blind and one we would probably not make ourselves. We would look at other options such as a pair of blinds or curtains.

    The 310cm blind will be heavy and require a lot of cords to pull it up. The weight and the friction from the  number of cords will mean you will definately need a geared chain pull system and not a standard 1:1 ratio. We would not even consider using a wooden batten on something that size due to the friction and weight.

    Also with such a wide blind you will need to be very accurate getting it square and your rod pockets straight as any errors are amplified. If you are using an aluminium bottom bar we have also encountered problems with them warping on very wide blinds, particularly if the blind is over a radiator.

    If you are prepared to consider other options send us a photo of the window to help@sew-helpful.com and we will let you know what we would do with the window.

     
    Ann
    Hello I have noticed that the rod tape is weak and pulls to threads with pressure .Is there a strong rod tape on the market ,thanks Ann
    Sew Helpful
    We dont use rod tape so unfortunately would not know which is the best. 
    Hannah Bruce
    Hi,
    I have had two roman blinds made by an interior design shop. The material was a liberty linen fabric and the blinds were made with the fabric turned horizontal.
    When the blinds were delivered and installed the blinds edges were wavy and looked terrible. The shop took them back and said they thought it might have been the fabric. However they said the had redone them. They look much better but are still a bit wavy in places.
    Some of the stab stitches by the rings seem to fold the fabric a little bit. Could this be the problem?
    Sew Helpful
    Hi Hannah

    In fairness to the interior design shop we can't really comment on how well the blinds may have been made without examining them. We also have no experience with liberty fabrics either.

    Some fabrics do not make up well as blinds and can be a nightmare shrinking in places when they are pressed. In the past we have made a large blind for a customer twice in a fabric but couldn't get it right due to the fabric shrinking and distorting, in the end we managed to find another fabric for the customer. Unfortunately with larger width blinds any small movement in the fabric is amplified due to the amount of fabric in the width.


    sandra
    I am currently trying to make a lined roman blind using a speedy cassette kit which comes with roman blind tape and loop tape (what is the difference between these as they look the same) and what do I use each one for?? Do you have a tutorial that will show me how to make the blind this way as happy to pay for tutorials if I know they will show me what I need to know?? Many thanks
    Sew Helpful
    I'm sorry we are not familiar with the kit you have. Generally most cassette and chain pull systems are similar. They need to be cut to length and the cord spools moved to the correct positions by sliding them along the rail and fixing them in place (as per our videos and instructions).

    The rod pocket tape can be sewn onto the lining rather than making the pocket out of the lining (remember you will need slightly less lining). Our instructions make the rod pockets out of the lining and you then sew rings on the back to guide the cords.

    With a most rod pocket tapes there are also fabric loops on the back that you can guide the cords with rather than sew rings on. Your kit may contain breakout devices though to comply with EU blind safety legislation. As yet we have not made a speciific tutorial showing how to use the rod pocket tape.
    Joyce
    The cord has broken on my existing blind and I can't fathom out how to replace it
    Sew Helpful
    The videos and instructions in step 11 show you and tell you how to string a roman blind.
    Julie
    I have read the safety advice on your site and the kit I have purchased. My kit has provided rod tapes and cord breaks which hook into the tape. I want to use these but would prefer to make rod pockets as per your video. The space between the rod pockets will be 32cms in my blind. Is it possible to attach the cord breaks by sewing or would you advise using the tape provided. This is the first time I have made a blind but have made curtains using your video and would prefer to stick to one set of instructions.

    The pencil pleat curtains I made following your instructions have turned out brilliantly.
    Sew Helpful
    I'm afraid we can't offer any advice on that. You will need to talk to the person who sold you the kit and ask them.
    Shirley
    As we live in an old house our the walls around our window s are not even and in fact are wider at the bottom than the top and the recess is very deep. I want the roman blind to block out as much light as possible but think I will have to narrow the blind at the bottom as otherwise it will not fold up properly. I intend to have a roller blind behind it next to the window pane to block out light. Is my solution for the roman blind right?
    Sew Helpful
    The Roman blind is a rectangle with straight sides. When fitting inside a recess that varies in width it has to be made to the narrowest width otherwise it gets stuck on the sides when it is pulled up and down. That does mean it will not totally cover the wider areas of the recess. Your other option may be to make a blind that is outside the recess.
    Kath
    We have patio doors 270cm wide by 210cm drop I am undecided whether to attempt 2 roman blinds do you think they would work with wooden batons?
    Sew Helpful
    We would use mechanisms for child safety reasons.
    Hazel Holohan
    Hi. I am making a blind to hang from a track with winding mechanism outside the recess. The track is 125cm wide (recess is 115cm so will have 5cm overlap each side) should the finished width of the blind be th exact width of the track or should the finished width be wider than the track if so by how much? Thank you
    Sew Helpful
    The blind should be 1cm wider than the track. All explained in STEP 10.
    Jane
    Help! I want to make a pair of roman shades for my patio door but wasn't sure how to make it look right. I could hardly do it inside the recess because its hardly recessed at all and not sure where I would attach the batten on. If I do it on the outside of the frame how would that look with a split in the center and how close would you put the two shades? Or maybe this is not feasible on a patio door? Thank-you
    Sew Helpful
    If there is nowhere to fix in the recess on the wall/frame or recess ceiling you have to go outside the recess.

    As for what would look right with the blinds hanging alongside each other or slightly that is a personal design decision you have to make based on what you think looks right for the doors/room.

    If you are making blinds for a door you need to consider

    If the door opens inwards under the blind you will need to make sure the blind is high enough and clear of the top of the door when pulled up.

    If the door is opening outwards you will need to consider you don't knock your head into the blind when it is pulled up walking through the doorway. 
    Nicolette
    Hi, Ive made a roman blind that is outside recess and know how to fasten it to wall. This may be a dumb question, but how do you do it if you make it inside the recess. Where do you fasten it, and do you still use the wooden piece at the top?
    Sew Helpful
    It depends on where you can get a good fixing. Generally it is a v bad idea to screw into plastic window frames and sometimes the walls and ceiling in the recess can be very hollow plasterboard. You can ceiling and wall fix a wooden baten and a metal chain cassette.
    penelope
    hi. How many roman blinds do you put on a window of 2.55 x 2.51? Please help. Thank you
    Sew Helpful
    That's a design decision Where you will have to decide yourself what will look best for the room and the window.
    Caroline
    Can the blinds be made without rods, if so any advise in doing this
    Sew Helpful
    With no rods the fabric would sag between the cord pulls, it would not be a roman blind.
    Sally
    Have you done a tutorial on how to make a double roman blind, so you could have a sheer panel for daytime, then lower a blackout panel at night? I would love to know how to do this!!
    Sew Helpful
    I'm afraid we have never made one of those so can't help there.
    ginnette cannon
    I am about the sew the rod tapes on the back on my blind. I have sewn the fabric and interlining together already. When sewing on the tapes the material seems to ruck up, is this normal and do I just persevere with keep unpicking and going over it again?? Many thanks for your help!
    Sew Helpful
    Do you mean lining or interlining? The interlined blind is another tuorial.

    You will see in both tutorials for lined and interlined blinds you make up the lining with the rod pockets on it before attaching the the lining panel to the fabric. That is why you are having problems.
    Helen
    Hi, I am making a blind to hang out side the recess and I want it to sit just on the top window architrave when the blind is pulled up. How much should I allow for this? Thanks.
    Sew Helpful
    I assume you are talking about the top of the blind being just on top of the architrave not the bottom. Basically there are no allowances you just need to work out what you think will look best and sometimes where you can get a strong fixing. There are many variables eg the window size, its position, distance from the ceiling, the relation to other windows in the room etc. Look at the window, how far the top is from the ceiling, what the depth of the blind in the up position will be and judge what position will look best. For example we fixed an outside the recess blind the other day and positioned its height inline with the curtain pole on windows nearby in the room (in other rooms that may not look right). Sometimes positioning the blind high you can use the depth of the blind when pulled up to make the window look higher and minimise the amount of light being blocked out when the blind is pulled up. You also have the option to vary the depth of the blind in the up postion as well as the position you fix it in. I'm afraid we don't use any magic formulas for us it just comes down to using your eye and making a judgement.
    Caroln
    You say make blind the same width as the INSIDE of the window, surely you should leave some sort of space as the edges would RUB whilst going up and down!!
    Sew Helpful

    We go for the width of the window recess rather than reduce the blind further for the following reasons.

    1. Many windows are not square and you find that you will have a shortest point across which will already mean the width of the blind is already reduced relative to the recess in the wider places.
    2. The blind usually comes up a few mm narrower when you make the side turns (especially with an interlined blind)
    3. We think the blind looks better where it covers as much of the window as possible and as we said you often get a reduced width in areas of the drop anyway from the recess not being square.

    That said of course you can always reduce the width of your blind a bit if you are worried about it catching. It is a good point and I will add a note to the instructions accordingly. 

    Thanks for the feedback.

    Hilary
    I have a traditional wooden curtain rail with rings which extends out about 2 inches on the usual support at each end Could I use this instead of the batten as then maybe the folds would come up under it and between the wall Help much appreciated
    Sew Helpful
    If you try that I would point out the following
    1. You will have to attach hook velcro along the length of the pole (which will be curved rather than a flat face so I'm not sure how that will look attaching the blind to it)
    2. The blind will not pull up in between the pole and the wall it will pull up under the pole.
    3. You will have to remove the rings and insert eyelets into the pole.
    4. The fixings holding the pole to the wall are designed to hold the weight of the curtain and the force of it being pulled sideways. With a blind you will be pulling down on these fixings as you pull on the blind cord. As the pole is held away from the wall this pulling down force may be too much for the fixings.
    Karen
    Hi, I'm making a roman blind for a bay window (so I'll make 2 smaller blinds for the sides and a large blind for the middle.) I'm using a fairly thick material. The middle blind measures 175cm wide and 155cm drop. I'm not sure which baton/mechanism to use that's best for a big blind. Please can you advise.
    Thank you
    Sew Helpful
    A wooden batten would probably work. But we would go for a geared mechanism.
    Julie S
    Hi, I have previously asked you for advice and I am back again with more queries as I want to make sure I make the best decision before I start. I have a large square bay, the front window is 286cms, made up of 4 panes, the returns are 90cms. I am using a patterned fabric (repeat of 39cms). The window ledge is 26cms deep and we have a pelmet above which extends slightly over the window ledges. I am making 2 blinds for the large front window and would have to add panels to both blinds which I don't relish as, from your advice you suggested narrowing the centre piece and adding 2 pieces of 8cms either side. I noted somewhere that you say in this situation you make the blinds so that they meet exactly in the corner, ie no overlap either way. Because I have deep window ledges, If I set the blinds in ie towards the front edge of the window ledge, I would have enough with one width for the two front window blinds. By doing it this way, I realise that the blinds don't cover across the whole window although will always meet wherever they are set to hang, and if accurate should hopefully look fine from both inside and outside. Do you think this could work? My other concern is that if the blinds are set in this way, the chains on both the blinds on the front window would be hanging in mid air. We have plastic windows so I wouldn't want to drill into the frame for the 'keep' for the chain. Do you know if there is an alternative 'keep' that perhaps sticks to plastic frames? I hope you understand this and look forward to your valuable advice.
    Thank you. Julie
    Sew Helpful
    We would not worry about the joins in the fabric - look at our mini tutorial with a free video on this site for more info on joining patterned fabric. As we said before we always make blinds with balanced joins as we think those look more professional.

    We would concentrate on getting the blinds in the best position and not compromise that position trying to avoid making joins.  We would fit the battens first and get them in the right position before measuring to get the size and positioning right.

    With regard to dangling chains, due to child safety legislation in the UK we would have to fit chain safety restraints (P clips) which we would have to drill into the UPVC window which we do not recommend.  
    Jo
    Is there a maximum width for a Roman blind please?
    Sew Helpful
    The longest rods and bars you can buy are usually 3m in length. For wide blinds like that you need geared mechanisms as they are heavey to pull up. If you are a beginner,  the bigger the blind the more difficult it is to get it true and square.
    sharon
    Hi
    i have tilt n turn windows and made roman blinds for them, howver i used velcro stuck one bit on window abnd sewed the other to the blind, it keeps peeling away at the top. Not happy withit. Any suggestions . No room to attach it to the selling and dont want to make holes in the plastic window. Please help.
    Sew Helpful
    We dont stick velcro to the window. The hook velcro would either be attached to a wooden batten or  a  chain cassette mechanism. When attaching the velcro to a wooden batten we cover the batten then stick and staple it on. We then attach the batten or mechanism to the window or ceiling/wall.

    Like you, we do not drill into plastic window frames and don't recommend it. However some people do and I have seen this advice given.

    "Don't use self tappers as they usually come loose. The screw you need is called qa CSR which has a drill like tip to it and makes its own hole. It also tightens into the hole and is virtually impossible to pull out unless you over screw it with a high power drill. Use a low torque setting and a slow speed"


    Ultimately if there is nowhere to fix the blind, the window is not suitable for a blind.
    Amy
    I'm making a roman blind above an architrave. I'm using a wooden batten but conscious that the depth of the batten is the same depth as the architrave (to ensure black out) is my only option that the cords will rub along the top of the architraves? Or are there any other tricks I can implement to avoid this. Thank you for any tips!
    Sew Helpful
    We don't fit blinds so the cords rub, we would space it away from the wall to make sure they run freely. (that doesnt really help with ensuring the blackout of the edges)
    Liane
    I've had some roman blinds made commercially- unfortunately, the measurements were not written correctly on the order and they have ended up 10cm too short. The shop are most unhelpful. I'd be so grateful for any suggestions on what to do.
    Sew Helpful
    I'm sorry we don"t comment on blinds and curtains made by other companies.
    Desiree
    My finished length of blind is 116 cms, headrail 4cms. I chose 7 pleats but it is coming up as error even if I choose more or less pleats. Please help
    Sew Helpful
    The headrail allownace is NOT the size of the headrail, you have to allow extra room beneath the headrail or the blind will not fully pull up. The online CALCULATOR uses a minimum of 5cm for the headrail allowance that is why you are getting an error message. If you read the tutorial STEP 2 it explains the headrail allowance
    Julie
    Hi, I want to make a blind for my lounge which is 153cm x 153 cm, which is wider than the width of the material by just a few cm's. Should I add the additional width to the side or would the blind look better if I made the two joined parts the same width? I'm worried that a small addition to the side wouldn't look right. Thanks for your help.
    Sew Helpful
    Hi Julie

    Go to STEP 6 of the tutorial and it shows you how we suggest making up the wider fabric panel by balancing it with 2 strips (one on each side). There is also some extra info in the EXTRA HELP section at the bottom where we answered a siimlar question, with a photo of a blind we made with 8cm strips added to each side.
    Julie
    Hi, I want to make a blind for my lounge which is 153cm x 153 cm, which is wider than the width of the material by just a few cm's. Should I add the additional width to the side or would the blind look better if I made the two joined parts the same width? I'm worried that a small addition to the side wouldn't look right. Thanks for your help.
    Sew Helpful
    Hi Julie you asked this question a couple of days ago, the question and answer is above.
    Annie
    Hi, i'm making some blinds for a big bay window with a plastic frame, but there is no room to attach the wooden battens above the frame so I was going to attach them directly to the ceiling and have the screw eyes coming off that, is this a good idea? How much headrail allowance would I have to leave? Also there is no room to attach a cleat next the biggest window (215cm) as there is only plastic frame, would I be able to thread the cord through the top of one of the side blinds and have a cleat on that wall or would it be too heavy? Many thanks
    Sew Helpful
    We have ceiling attached before and it has been fine. However it will depend on how good your fixing is. You need to fix into something other than plasterboard and get a strong enough fixing. 

    Please go to this article here on our blog to work out your headrail allowance. <a href="http://sew-helpful.com/blog4-HeadrailAllowance.php">HEADRAIL ALLOWANCE EXPLAINED</a> . You are covering the face of the batten with the blind so it will effectively it will go to the ceiling.

    I can't tell you if it will be too heavy or not threading to the side. We have done this on blinds previously but not ones 215cm wide. It will depend on their weight, the angle the cords are being pulled through, the friction between the various cords etc. I suspect it will be too heavy. We make blinds that size using a geared chain mechaism.
    Sheila Paul
    Hi, I am putting my Roman blinds on the recess of the window, how far or near to the window do I put the rail? Hope to hear from you soon Sheila
    Sew Helpful
    All windows are different  and the blinds positioning is a design decision that can be goverened to a certain extent on where you can get a fixing to hold the blind rail /batten in place. inside the recess we put the blind up close to the top to allow as much light in as possible when it is up and have it close to the window making sure it will not catch on handles etc when moving up or down.

    Also consider If the blind is going to restrict the opening of a window when up, then a blind inside the recess may not be the solution for the window.


    Laura
    Hi
    I am measuring up for a recessed blind and the narrowest part of the window recess is 88cm and goes as wide as 90cm. I want to fit a cassette mechanism blind and not sure if an 80cm one will be ok and whether I can just have a slight overhang of the material & fit the cassette to the ceiling/wall. Or would I be better off fitting a wooden batton one instead
    Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    The blind can be no wider than the narrowest part of the recess or else it will catch on the way up and down. For your 88cm wide blind a 4cm overlap at each end of an 80cm rail would be far too much. We would buy the wider rail and cut it down.
    Jenny buist
    Is there a maximum depth for Roman blinds. My window is 85cm x 210 cms. Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    The longer they are the bulkiier they are when pulled up and as they get heavier you may need a geared mechanism to pull them up.  I've them over 30ft long in hotels, but I suspect they were on a much stronger pull up mechanism than normal.

    A lined roman blind your size should be ok, depending on the weight of your fabric you may need a geared mechanism, the blurb about the blind rail usually says what weight it is good for.
    Jenny buist
    Is there a maximum depth for Roman blinds. My window is 85cm x 210 cms. Thanks
    Marie
    Hi. Can you tell me if the cord drawn blind system works in the same manor as a cassette when making Romans? Or are there different adjustments needed. Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    You make the Roman blind the same for each system. Both effectively pull the cords up the back of the blind through rings and hold the blind via loop Velcro sewn along the top of the blind panel. The cords are attached to the bottom rings on the blind. With a cassette you may be supplied with a particular type of ring to attach on the back as it may have a child safety break out system. The ring positions and construction of the blind panel is the same for both systems though.

    So basically if you make a blind it would work with both systems the only thing you may need to change are the rings of they are needed for a child safety breakout system.
    Marie
    Hi. Can you tell me if the cord drawn blind system works in the same manor as a cassette when making Romans? Or are there different adjustments needed. Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    The answer is above
     
    Ann
    I am making a Roman Blind with blackout lining, on blinds I've made previously I've made the rod pockets on the lining, i find them strong & neat, is it possible to do this on the blackout lining or is tape the only possibility ???
    Thank you.
    Sew Helpful
    It is thicker but yes you can do that. We have changed the ways we make blackout blinds over the years. To avoid the pinprick lines of light you get along the rod pockets, we now make them with blackout sandwiched betwen the lining and the fabric. That tutorial is coming later.
    Sarwa
    Hi there, I have 3 Roman blinds for my bay window, which have a geared mechanisim (if that's what it's called?). I want to put roller blinds behind to use as a voile during the day, but I am not sure how to measure these! Do I order the custom made roller blinds the same size as the metal mechanism of the Roman blinds (the mechanism measures 50.5cm, while the fabric is 53cm) or should I give them the measurement of the fabric? (I am giving a measurement from bracket to bracket of which they will deduct 35mm to give the fabric size?) please help!!!!
    Sew Helpful
    No idea!! You need to ask the person/company who is making the custom made roller blinds what measurement they want.
    mary
    I was pulling the roman blind down for a client and it stuck. She told me to pull it, which I did and it rolled down to the floor. I now have to get it back up. I have tried rolling it up and putting it in its slots at the side but it won't stay up. Are you able to assist please.
    Sew Helpful
    No. You don't roll a Roman blind and there are no slots, I can't see how the question is relevant to making a blind in the tutorial.
    Helen
    Are there tips you could give on how to make sure that I achieve a straight vertical edge on material where the selvedge edges have been partly cut off?
    Sew Helpful
    Use the technique we use in the videos to get the bottom straight but fold along the length rather than across.
    Tracy
    I will have to join my material width 140cm, actual blind required 143cm width x 131cm drop. I understand you have larger middle panel and small side panels. Typically what ratio of measurement would you recommend for each panel? Thank you
    Sew Helpful
    With a patterned fabric you will have to join to the pattern at the selvedges. With a plain there are no hard or fast rules. STEP 6 of this lined roman blind tutorial in the extra help section has an image of a 143cm wide blind we made with an 8cm strip each side, to give you an idea of what that might look like.
    Carole jones
    Is there a minimum width window for roman blind fittings?

    Does your company make roman blinds? If so what is the name of the co. I have bookmarked your tutorial on roman blind making but the name of your company is not included!

    Thank you
    Sew Helpful
    You can cut a romna blind track down to about 30cm in length. Whether a blind that narrow would look right is another matter.

    This website/company is called Sew Helpful. This website does not make roman blinds for people it is a tutorial website. We do have another company called Dolman and Taylor that makes blinds, curtains and soft furnishings, hence our knowledge on the tutorial subjects.
    Bec
    My fabric is quite lightweight. Would it be a good idea to iron a thin interfacing onto the back to give the fabric more support. I am also using block out lining. Many thanks.
    Sew Helpful
    Hi Bec that is something we haven't done before and would not attempt ourselves.
    Clare
    Hello, I would like to make a small roman blind for the window in a UPVC kitchen door. Is it possible to attach the blind to the actual door or do you not recommend this? Thank you for your help.
    Sew Helpful
    If you look above to the reply with an image of a screw you will see we have answered a similar question. We would NOT screw into UPVC ourselves. 
    Clare
    Thank you for your help
    Clare
    Hello, I would like to make a small roman blind for the window in a UPVC kitchen door. Is it possible to attach the blind to the actual door or do you not recommend this? Thank you for your help.
    Sew Helpful
    Hi Clare I have answered already see above.
    Clare
    Sorry, submitted twice by accident! Thank you.
    Sheila
    Making a bling 190cm wide. Can I use a head rail and cord system or do I need a geared chain system?
    Sew Helpful
    The wider the blind the less likely it is to work with a batten due to its weight. We would use a Geared headrail mechanism on that width. Due to child safety legislation we now make all our blinds with headrails rather than battens as we have not found a reliable cord breakout system for the traditional batten.
    Anne
    Hi, Can you tell me if I can raise my roman blinds higher by putting another hook on the wooden batten. Someone said this would pull them up even further but I can't find any information about this?
    Thanks
    Anne
    Sew Helpful
    No

    When the blind is pulled all the way up the rings on the rods pull up tight against the eyelets or headrail so it will pull up no further. Adding a hook will make no difference. The only way to make your blind pull up higher would be to remake it with more rods spaced closer together and a shorter headrail allowance.

    The depth of the blind when pulled up is one of your main considerations when you decide the headrail allowance, number of rods and fold depth you are going to use at the start of the making process. See STEP 2 calculate the blind's dimensions.


    Anne
    Thanks so much for your help, apologies I sent the question twice.
    Sarah
    I am getting Roman blinds made, but they will be for display only, not actually to shut so instead of measuring the drop to the bottom of the window can I measure it shorter to save on fabric?
    Sew Helpful
    You need to ask the person who is making the dummy blind what measurements they want. It will depend on how they are making it.
    Agnes Smith
    Hi,

    I'm planning on making Roman blinds for large patio doors approx full width of 410 cm and length of 224 cm.

    I bought a Corded Roman Blind Kit 210 cm wide. The fabric I've bought is 100% cotton. I've got a few questions which I hope you can help me with:

    1) would you recommend me using 2 x 210 cm Corded Roman Blind Kits for this or would you suggest I make more than 2 blinds?

    2) do you think a Corded Roman Blind kit would handle the length I need for the Roman blind?

    3) would you recommend I line the material?

    I'll send a photo of the window and the Roman blind kit.

    Thanks in advance,

    Agnes
    Sew Helpful
    1) Looking at your window we would go for curtains. if you want to make blinds we would fit them outside the recess to avoid hitting your head on them as you walk through the patio door, As for the number of blinds that is really down to your design taste. The more blinds the more chains you'll have hanging down. In the UK,  due to child safety regs we would probably be restricted to 2 blinds as there would be no where to attach the chain for any middle blinds.

    2) We have no idea if that kit will work, for blinds that size we would be using a geared mechanisim to make sure they can pull the weight up.

    3) We line all our blinds unless its a sheer or we are going for a see through linen look. 
    Agnes Smith
    Hi,

    Thanks so much for your quick reply. I really appreciate the advice.

    Regards,

    Agnes

    Gaynor
    I have just finished my first lined Roman blind. Very pleased with it and with your tutorial and videos. Reading through the questions regarding baton vs cassette it appears that you no longer use the baton. But throughout the tutorial you say that you do use the baton method. Bit confused as I would follow your advice.
    Sew Helpful
    There has been child safety legislation introduced in the UK that means we have decided not to make blinds with wooden battens for customers any more, but instead to use cassette systems that have been specifically designed and tested to comply with the legislation. 

    There is a BLIND SAFETY link on the tutorial page that explains the tutorial is viewed worldwide (195 countries and territories last time I looked) and it is up to you to find out what legislation you may need to comply with in your country and to modify the instructions accordingly.

    There are some child safety solutions coming onto the market for Roman blinds with wooden battens, we may demonstrate some in the new Roman Blind tutorials we are currently making.
    Sue
    Hello there,

    I'm looking to make a Roman blinds which is intended to be the focal point of my living room.

    I would be most grateful for guidance on the most appropriate lining. Would it look nice with a standard 100% cotton lining or should I go for interlined lining? Bonded lining is not available for me.

    I've been told that interlined is best as it gives a fuller body but I'm concerned that it may be too heavy or bulky given the following:

    - The blind is not too large (ie 96cm width x 130cm length) and will sit outside the window.
    - The fabric is 100% cotton.
    - I'm likely to have the blind half way up 365 days a year

    Any advice on which will give a better look would be much appreciated,

    Cheers
    Sew Helpful
    Without seeing the room or fabric it is difficult to say

    That said we would probably go for interlined with a 180gsm sarill or synthetic domett. Interlined blinds are not as crisp as lined, but for us that thicker, softer blind is better for a living room. We dont think weight or bulk should be an issue.

    You need to go to the interlined blind tutorial. 
    Anna-Marie Marshall
    Hello,
    I am about to measure up for a Roman blind and am wondering how high above the window to site the baton. I want the finished blind to block out as little light as possible when drawn up. Any tips?
    Thanks,
    Anna-Marie
    Sew Helpful
     There is no exact answer. Generally we position the top of the batten 10cm above the recess and calculate an appropriate depth of the blind when pulled up. 

    However depending on the room, window size etc you may want to vary that.

    Other things to consider are, the distance from the top of the window to the ceiling, whether you need the blind top to be the same height as others in the room, what the options are for the depth of your blind is when pulled up. 
    Susan
    I would like to make a blind with a width of 248 cm x 115 cm drop. I know that is a very wide blind but I think it would look better than 2. Do you think it would work OK using the traditional wooden head rail and batons. The fabric is not heavy and I would use a cotton lining.

    I have made quite a few Roman blinds but none this wide and would appreciate your advice.
    Sew Helpful
    We have made them that wide with a batten before and it worked. However it does require a strong fixing and runs the risk of not being able to pull up easily due to it's weight. Nowadays due to chid safety legislation in the UK we would use a compliant mechanism. This would also have the benefit of being geared so it will cope with the weight of the blind.
    Emma Evans
    Hi.
    Firstly, your website is like my sewing bible and is fab!
    I'm making a Roman blind which is 114.5" width & the drop 50.5"!!! I know you would normally recommend 2 or 3 smaller ones, but I wanted it to flow by having 1 large blind, plus I like a challenge!
    I have squared my 3 widths of fabric & pinned together the pattern match ready to sew. I'm abit lost now though!
    When I have sewed the widths together, do I square the blind again(as best as I can as it's soooooo big) or do I not need to as I squared it before joining.
    Please help, i'm stuck.
    Sew Helpful
    You are going to have to square the whole panel again and get the joins vertical and straight on your squared panel to stop them looking odd when the blind is down. With a 3m wide blind that is not very easy and is why we recommend smaller blinds for the less experienced and those without very large tables, rulers and T bars.
    Rayray
    Hi there, I've never made blinds before but now need to make some for a caravan. We want to use blackout fabric. Is it necessary to line it? And must I use rod tape? I see in your comments above that you are making a tutorial video on blackout blinds - - could you please advise when this would be available. Much appreciated- thanks!
    Sew Helpful
    We will be making a blackout lined roman blind tutorial shortly (next month online hopefully). There are several ways to make the blind using blackout. The key thing is though you want the blackout to go to the edge of the blind (the cotton lining doesn't on a standard lined blind).

    We have posted some pictures  that give some information on how to get the blackout lining to the edge in the Question & Comments section of STEP 6 of our Lined Roman Blind Tutorial http://www.sew-helpful.com/roman-blind-lined-step6.php

    As you will see we do not make the rod pocket from the lining and use a pocket tape. There is a second method we use in the workshop that involves sandwiching a layer of blackout between a cotton lining and the fabric. This has the benfit of the rod pocket stitch lines not pin pricking through the blackout and with this method we tend to make the rod pockets from the linging as we think it looks better.

    We have plans to give full details of both methods, but they are not fully written yet.
    fiona daly
    Great instructions, thank you. I am now about to make interlined Roman blinds to fit a rather drafty wooden framed bay window with very little recess, approx. dimensions of each blind 90cm x 180cm drop. I plan to use baton fixing so as to minimize the gap between window and blind,would you agree that this is the best solution? Also, when sewing in the rod pockets, do I only stitch through lining and interlining or through the three layers of fabric?
    Thank you
    Sew Helpful
    There is a tutorial on how to make an interlined blind on the website. We never stitch the rod pockets through to the face fabric on any of our blinds. The whole method is in the tutorial.

    A batten could hold the blind slightly closer to the window than a metal headrail (we don't use battens any more as we have not found a child safety compliant reliable cord breakout system for them yet).  

    As for a best solution interlined curtains returned to the wall would probably be more effective at reducing the drafts but would cost a lot more in fabric and you would have to fit a suitable track or pole. Also it depends on what look you are going for.
    fiona
    Thank you very much for your time. I shall look at the other tutorial.
    fiona
    Thank you very much for your time. I shall look at the other tutorial.
    Ria
    I want to make a roman blind that fits inside the window recess. However the top of the window recess is not square and the drop is 5cm longer on one side than the other. Is there a way of adjusting the top of the blind or would I be better placing the blind on the outside of the recess. I would also like to know what dimension bar I should use for the bottom of the blind. Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    The rods and bars we use are shown in STEP 9.

    As a beginner we would advise going outside the recess. However we have made them inside the recess for windows like this.

    You will need to fix the blind rail horizontally and pack above with more velcro fixing. Then shape the top of the blind using buckram and wide velcro so you can still attach the blind to the headrail. (I'm afraid how to do this is beyond the scope of this tutorial)

    This is how it would look, personally we think it is better to come outside the recess or pick a different window treatment with a wonky window, as blinds are a very straight precise look and when you make them to an irregular shape your eye is drawn to the irregularity of the window.

    Blind irregular top

    Irregular Topped Roman Blind


    However in this instance the customer really wanted them in the recess, as ever there is no right or wrong answer it is down to personal taste. 

    Bex Stanley
    Hi,
    I am making a roman blind with a spotty pattern on the fabric and the width is 121cm and drop is a wonky from left to right 113.5 / 111cm/ 111cm. I know roman blinds are precise, but do you have any tips on how to make this fit without it looking uneven i.e. my experience is telling me to be even from the top down and then modify at the bottom to accommodate the deepest drop of 113cm. What are your thoughts please? Thank you
    Sew Helpful
    We would make it square and horizontal at the bottom.
    Julie Horton
    Would you consider a 3 inch overlap on each side of the window recess to be too much for a roman blind? This measurement fits better with the pattern than a 2 inch overlap which seems to be the recommended amount. The window is 85 cm wide which means the overall width of the blind would be 100cm with a 7.5 cm overlap on each side.
    Sew Helpful
    There are no hard rules, all windows and fabrics are different. The size of overlap you are thinking of  sounds fine, it all comes down to design decisions and if it looks better with the pattern it is probably the better size.
    Debbie
    I have tall Georgian sash Windows with wooden shutters . However the shutters are not full length and do not cover the top 1/4 of the window.

    I'd like to fit blinds therefore , ideally inside the recess and shutters .
    Could you advise on the minimum depth of the recess in order to fit the blind mechanism ? Would you also recommend roller or Roman blinds ?

    Thanks
    Debbie
    Sew Helpful
    If you are face mounting (not ceiling), using a mechanism, the front of the  roman blind will protrude approx 55mm from the face. It may well be more as the folds stack up under.

    As for recommending roller or roman blinds, we cant say. That is a design decision based on the windows, room, shutters etc.
    Marian
    Is it possible to sew a new facing fabric on to an existing Roman blind
    Sew Helpful
    We have never done that. It's not something we would recommend, we would always make one from scratch.
    Annette
    Hi, can I ask a silly question please?! How far above my window should I mount my cassette or does it just depend on my own taste? Is there a standard measurement that needs to be observed?
    Thanks in advance, Annette.
    Sew Helpful
    Hi Annette

    We have answered the same question, about 11 questions up from this one.
    K Potter
    Hi. I have a large window which is divided into three panes (UVPC) and I have bought three blinds - one for each window section. Now I realise that the plastic chain for the middle blind will hang down when the blind is up - I am worried that will look odd. Do you have any thoughts on this, or advice on anything else I can do?
    Sew Helpful
    Hi Kate we've answered some of your questions on facebook. We used to make blinds with battens and a cleat and run the strings from the middle blind through the other batten so evrything pulled from the side and nothing hung down in the middle.

    Nowadays due to child safety legislation we always use chain mechanisms with tested child safety systems. So a chain would hang from the middle blind if we were making them.  If you dont like that you could always buy one big blind, a pair of blinds (chain each side)  or go for curtains. At the end of the day it is a design decision with no right or wrong answer.
    Jackie
    Hello. And thank you for the tutorial. I am planning a blind for patio windows so it will be wider than the 137 standard width. Do you recommend cutting the lining so that it goes either side of a middle piece, as with the facing fabric, or is it ok to have a central seam? Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    We would make with a piece either side. You can buy double width lining to avoid the joins.
    Jackie
    Hello. And thank you for the tutorial. I am planning a blind for patio windows so it will be wider than the 137 standard width. Do you recommend cutting the lining so that it goes either side of a middle piece, as with the facing fabric, or is it ok to have a central seam? Thanks
    Katie
    Hi,
    I've been using your tutorials to make blinds for several rooms in my house. So far I have made 2. My third one is proving difficult, I was fooled into thinking that as the fabric has a grid printed on it (it's a world map) that I could use the grid to check for squareness. Not so! I've been looking for a set square like the one you use in your tutorials, I did find a page on your website where you sell them for £1 - I thought that was very reasonable indeed! But when I click check out - the page goes to an error page. Please could you assist me in where to get one from. Many thanks.
    Sew Helpful
    Any grid or check on a fabric can be a bit of a pain on a blind as they are usually not truly square and this can show particularly against  thesquare  side and bottom edges of the blind. You sometimes just have to position the pattern to what looks best.

    The set square for £1 link would be a test product to a test page for a potential shop on the website. We do not sell anything yet and they cost alot more than £1.

    Google  Graders set square to find them online for sale.

    jem
    I had roman blinds made and was adviced the maker that they would be thick enough without a lining. is there anyway to add a lining to these roman blinds
    Sew Helpful
    We would take it apart try and keep the fabric if possible and make again. It will depend on how the have been made.
    Dawn
    Firstly, thank you for a wonderful webpage. My window is overall 110" long by 60" deep. The window is made up of 5 parts and is in oblong leaded lights, so lines abound. My fabric is plain. I need to have 2 drops to cover the width of window but cannot decide where it should go. I Wanted to do a drop of 2/5s and a drop of 3/5s so the join is where one of the window breaks is but 3/5s is wider than the fabric. If I do them both the same width, the join is in the middle of the middle section glass. Any ideas? I shall definitely purchase your video but I firstly need to know in what way I must cut the fabric. Many thanks from very confused Dawn
    Sew Helpful
    This is a design decision so no right answer. 

    Generally we would look at balancing the binds so they are symetrical, but would not split across a window. So would probably look at 5 singles, one 3 panel in centre a single either side or 1 large blind. 

    We cant really say what we would do without looking at the window, the room and the context. 
    Sheridan colson
    Hi, I have been asked to make sheer roman blinds for a friend. Just wondering if I should make them just like the lining or should I make separate did pockets and sew them on? Or so you have any general tips on how to make sheer unlined roman blinds? Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    You can do it either way. There are translucent rod pocket tapes and clear plastic rods you can purchase. Altenatively you can make the pocket out of the fabric (like the lining). I've done both dependent on the fabric.  

    Merrick and Day sell the tapes and rods.
    Sanjay Agarwal
    Which is a better wooden or plastic batten for roman blinds Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    We only supply metal headrails from the workshop nowadays as they are the best to comply with child safety regulations. 

    We've never used a plastic headrail. 
    Luisa Thorpe
    Apologies if you have answered a similar question elsewhere. I am about to make a blind 170cm width by 135cm drop. I appreciate the benefits you have stated and your preference for chain mechanisms. However, I have the rods, batten and bottom bar already and would prefer not to have to spend additional money on a chain rail. In your view, would a blind of this size pull up adequately with a traditional batten? The fabric is a quality weave so has some weight, but I will not be adding interlining to the weight.

    Many thanks
    Sew Helpful
    You should be able to pull that 170cm wide blind up with a traditional wooden batten.
    Jane Morrison
    I am making 3 roman blinds for my kitchen(2) and adjoining utility room. All the windows are different sizes. The kitchen windows are opposite one another. Am I best to make the top section the same size for them all and adjust the width of the folds accordingly or does it not matter?
    Sew Helpful
    The 2 in the kitchen, If they are not alongside we would try and get them as similar as possible, a cm or so will not make much difference though. We wouldn't necessarily make the utility blind exactly the same as it is in a different room.
    Glennis Lingard
    I like a very dark bedroom - I've looked at all your comments regarding backout interlining etc. If you hang a roman blind outside the recess (so I can put things on the window sill) would the blind then be hanging away from the wall so that you get light seepage around the edge. Would it be 'darker' to hang the blind inside the recess?
    Sew Helpful
    You will get more light seepage around the roman blind if you mount it outside the recess. You will still also get some light seepage around the blind though even if mounted inside the recess.

    If you really want to black the room out you need floor length blackout curtains returned to the wall covered with a pelmet.

    blackout curtains
    Glennis Lingard
    Thank you very much.
    jane
    if the fabric is cut too short can you add 9cms to the bottom of the main fabric to create the pocket as the joining seam could be hidden just behind the bottom?
    Sew Helpful
    Yes you can add fabric to the bottom. Indeed sometimes we join fabric to the bottom higher up to create a border at the bottom of the blind.
    Sandra
    When the fabric seams have been turned in, should they be pressed. There is no mention of pressing at this stage.
    Thanks.
    Sew Helpful
    The videos show how we fold and press the sides.
    Oonagh Griffith
    Would you usually fix your wooden batten to the wall above the window leaving no gap between batten and top of window (no architrave present). If usual to leave a gap, how much is recommended. My window is approx 90cm wide x 155cm deep.
    Oonagh Griffith
    Just spotted the answer to this in another comment. Thanks!
    Maureen
    I a making a Roman blind which will go outside the window frame. I want it to expose as much if the window as possible and want it to start 30cm abice the actual window . How do I go about working out the pleat sizes. The depth of blind including the 30cm abice frame is 1m40
    Sew Helpful
    This is all covered in the next step of the tutorial. (STEP 2). There is also a Roman blind pleat calculator on the site as well
    Denise
    Hope you can help! I was meticulous in squaring my lining befor marking and cutting but i’ve Pressed the edges after turning them in and have gone to mark the hens and it’s all out of square - how can I get it back true?
    Sew Helpful
    Did you use steam when you pressed it? it sounds like you have shrunk parts of the lining.
    Emma
    Hi.
    I'm making 3 Roman blinds for a bay window (rectangle shaped Bay).
    I've made the big cental blind, but now I need to make the 2 smaller ones for the side. But, do I need to take anything off the width measurements so that when they are pulled up, they hang next to each other ok?
    Regards, Emma.
    Sew Helpful
    We try to butt them up with each other in the corners (rather than one straight across the back that overlaps the 2 side blinds). Generally we go for a 1cm gap and the blinds slightly wider than the rails that way we can jig their position to get a nice fit.

    It is easier to fit the rails/battens first then measure.
    Sally
    I would like to make a roman blinds for my square bay window. I would prefer to hang them outside the recess of the window but I do not have enough space in-between to have the recommended 5cm. Is it possible to have less?
    Sew Helpful
    Yes, sometimes you have to work with what you've got. There are no hard and fast rules. 
    Joanna
    I have just found your tutorials and I think you may have saved me! So thank you in advance.
    I am needing to make a black out roman blind. I can see some great tips from several of your comment replies. And also see instructions and/or a tutorial on this is upcoming.
    I have four weeks to get the blind done (we are heading away and people are staying at ours whilst we are away and given I have to give our current blind a 'haircut' each week to tidy up the fraying, I really need to get it done before we go), so I am wondering what your expected publication date might be? (Posting this 11 Feb 2018.)
    If it isn't very soon, may I ask you a few questions?
    1. Is your preference still to use the black out lining between the blind fabric and a standard lining?
    2. Which then of your two blind tutorials is best to use? Knowing adaptations will be needed.
    3. Would you mind sharing/recommending what black out lining you use yourselves? Any extra width option would be much appreciated (happily the fabric I liked came in an extra width option making at least one step a little easier). The black out lining I have found (from our local John Lewis) is rather stiff to the extent 'drape' is not really a word I would associate with it and should it come to it, it's of a finish I can't really imagine hand stitching...
    Any other top tips/highlights/differences to the standard tutorial would be very much appreciated.
    Huge thanks in advance.
    Sew Helpful
    The Blackout Roman Blind Tutorial is realistically a couple of moths away.

    1. We use Blackout between the fabric and a standard back lining
    2.  The interlined blind tutorial is currently the closest to the method
    3. Look at our blog there is an article about linings , we often use a combined blackout interliner if the face fabric isn't too heavy as this helps reduce the pinpricks of light.
    Joanna
    Huge thanks for your reply - I really appreciate it. Hope to start this week, so fingers crossed!
    Melanie
    Would a 2.4m wide window be too big to make roman blinds for? It's also 1.2m high.
    Sew Helpful
    You can make Roman blinds that big, However big blinds are hard to make well and we tend not to make big Roman blinds as we think they are more suited to smaller windows.
    Mary
    Hi, I want to watch all the videos again as it's my last day of access - I can see 13 but I know there are 14 - where can I find the other one? Many thanks for this - really clear detailed and helpful tutorials - my blinds are going well.
    Sew Helpful
    Have you included the one on this page? Then there are 13 other ones in the tutorials, If you go to the LOW RES page they are in a list.
    nicky
    hi I am making a wide blind and the fabric is quite soft would you use an iron on fusible to help prevent sagging .
    Sew Helpful
    We do not fuse anyhting to the fabric in the workshop. Using blackout as an interliner helps the blind keep it's shape.
    Liz
    Hi there,
    My sister in law wants me to make two blinds 162 cm wide and the other 182 cm wide. I have only made smaller ones before and presume I will have to join the fabric to make it wide enough unless I can get hold of extra wide fabric. Do you have any advice on making these before I agree!!! Thank you, Liz
    Sew Helpful
    With standard width fabric you will need to join the fabric. It is easier  to use double width lining if you have it (no joining and the rods don’t catch on the lining joins in the rod pockets). Inserting blackout between the face fabric and lining can give the Blind more stability and help prevent sagging.
    Lisa
    I am confused as to how high the batten should be above the window. Example: if you have one 9m tall window and another 1.5m, how could the distance be the same for the batten? I am trying to measure so that when the blinds are open, it does not cut any light out. Is there a rule for this please?
    Sew Helpful
    There are no rules, you make a judgement and put it where you think it will look right. Some windows have very little space above to the ceiling others will have a large expanse. In the video with a pretty standard window we go for half way. (we generally place it 15-20cm above the window) but never so high that the pulled up blind will be above the window.

    To make it in line you will have to place the batten above the window where it will give you the depth you want when pulled up, Measure the drop down from that point, then calculate the pleats so it is that depth when pulled up.


    Do you really want to make a 9m long roman blind?
    Paula
    Can you please let me know if I can change the chain from right to left side on a cassette blind, if so how is this done? thanks
    Sew Helpful
    It will depend on what make you have. Generally you need to release a grub screw on a collar that attaches the cog mechanism to the metal rod that runs down the cassette (usually with a small allen key). 

    You then need to release the screws that hold the  cog mechanism to the cassette and slide it off. Then remove the end cap from the other end and slide the cog mechanism on the other end and secure into place with the screws and allen key onto the metal rod.

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