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Step 11: String & Hang
Printable Worksheet
PULL CORD SYSTEM
- Fix the batten into place using screws or brackets if necessary.
- Cut a length of cord for each column of rings approximately twice the length of the blind plus the blind width.)
- Attach a cord to each bottom ring and thread up through the rings, through the eyelet of the batten directly above and then across through the eyelets along the batten to side the blind will be pulled from. (check if there is any applicable child safety legislation in your country, for example you may need a breakout system where the cord attached to the bottom ring may need to break away and release under pressure.)
- See Diagram
- Press the (velcro) blind loop fastening to the batten hook fastening to hold the blind in place.
- The cords will now be hanging down to the side of the blind and of varying lengths.
- Thread the Acorn onto the cords, pull the cords taught and then knot them off so the acorn is now held in place. Trim the loose ends. (check if there is any applicable child safety legislation in your country, for example some rules may require an unknotted acorn that breaks open under pressure breaking any cord loops.)
- Fix a cleat at a convienient height at the side of the window. (check if there is any applicable child safety legislation in your country, for example some rules require that the cleat must be 150cms from the floor and accumulate all/most of the cord – only a single cord of no more than 20cms can hang below the cleat.)
- Pull the blind up and secure in place by winding the cord around the cleat.
if using ROD POCKET TAPE
If you have used rod pocket tape rather than make traditional rod pockets, you may be threading the cords through the fabric loops on the tape rather than brass rings. Or you may have safety breakout that clip to the loops that you thread the cord through.
This video shows you
- How to string the blind.
- How to hang the blind.
CHAIN LINK SYSTEM
- Fix the batten into place using screws or brackets if necessary.
- Unwind the cord from the cord spools, so the cords hang down.
- Thread each cord down through the appropriate column of rings on the back of the blind and secure the cord to the bottom ring with an adjustable toggle. (check if there is any applicable child safety legislation in your country, for example you may need a breakout system where the cord attached to the bottom ring may need to break away and realease under pressure.)
- Fix the blind in place by pressing the (velcro) blind loop fastening to the batten hook fastening.
- Wind the blind up with the chain link to take up the slack.
- Just as the blind starts to pull, Stop.
- Check all the cords on the back are pulled taught. If not adjust the toggles so they are taught and even.
- Trim off any excess cord
- With regard to the chain loop hanging down check if there is any applicable child safety legislation in your country. (for example some rules require that the bottom loop of the chain or cord must be 150cms from the floor and secured with a safety device OR If the operating chain/cord has a breakaway device then the bottom loop of the cord/chain can be 60cms from the floor.)
if using ROD POCKET TAPE
If you have used rod pocket tape rather than make traditional rod pockets, you may be threading the cords through the fabric loops on the tape rather than brass rings. Or you may have safety breakout that clip to the loops that you thread the cord through.
Extra Help & Comments
Sew Helpful
Reply
Post your questions and comments here, we will reply so everyone can see the answer.
ReplyJoyce
I would like to make a blind using a patterned fabric with cascading folds. Any suggestions? I would also prefer to use pre made tape for the rods rather than make rod pockets.
Thanks
Thanks
Sew Helpful
How to make a blind with rod pocket tape is coming in a later tutorial. Obviously you will need less lining fabric as you are not making the rod pockets out of the lining panel. Mark the lines where you will sew the rod pocket tape on and when coming to sew the tape on, place it a couple of mm above your marked line and sew it on along the line which will be hidden below the tape. If you are not a confident sewer it will help pinning the tape to the lining. Much more detail will follow in the tutorial.
A cascading blind works essentially the same as the standard blind in this tutorial except the positioning of the rod pockets is different as the pleat sections vary in size as you go up the blind. the bottom single section is the biggest then each pair of pleat sections as you move up the blind reduces in size. The top pleat section is bigger than the one below it due to the fact it includes the headrail allowance. The Cascade size (spacing between the folds down the front of the drawn up blind) is the difference in size between the pleat sections. Much more detail will follow in a cascade blind tutorial. It can be quite handy to fold up a sheet of A4 paper to create a mini cascading blind to see how they work. When you open the paper out you will see there are an odd number of pleat sections and how the pleat section vary in size.
How you fit a pattern to a cascading blind depends very much on the pattern size and the pattern repeat.
A cascading blind works essentially the same as the standard blind in this tutorial except the positioning of the rod pockets is different as the pleat sections vary in size as you go up the blind. the bottom single section is the biggest then each pair of pleat sections as you move up the blind reduces in size. The top pleat section is bigger than the one below it due to the fact it includes the headrail allowance. The Cascade size (spacing between the folds down the front of the drawn up blind) is the difference in size between the pleat sections. Much more detail will follow in a cascade blind tutorial. It can be quite handy to fold up a sheet of A4 paper to create a mini cascading blind to see how they work. When you open the paper out you will see there are an odd number of pleat sections and how the pleat section vary in size.
How you fit a pattern to a cascading blind depends very much on the pattern size and the pattern repeat.
Deborah
Hi, I am making my first roman blind and using a deluxe M&D kit. The cords coming down from the headrail are not evenly spaced, and even if I unscrew them I cant move them into positions which are evenly spaced. Do they have to be? As they are they would be in the middle of the blind, then 1 about 5 cm in and on the other side about 12 cm in. The overall bind width is 57cm. Sorry if this is an obvious question to pro blind makers but I cant find the answer anywhere!
Sew Helpful
We are not familiar with the blind kit you are using. The headrails we use adjust by loosening a screw then sliding the spool along the rail to the right position then tightening the screw to hold it in place. The blind will probably work ok but will look and function better if they are evenly spaced. Can you ask the person you bought it from how it adjusts?
Jo
I have just finished making my blind - did pretty much all of it in one day.
I paid for 48 hours access to the videos and they were invaluable. A great addition to the text instructions, especially for somebody (like me) that does not sew that regularly. The extra tips and explanations of why you were doing things were useful.
Thanks!
Sew Helpful
You were the first person to use the videos!!
We are glad you found all the extra information in them really useful.
We are glad you found all the extra information in them really useful.
Chris
Can you please tell me what thickness of blind cord you use?
Sew Helpful
We generally use 1.2mm blind cord.
Julie
I am making two blinds, side by side, to cover a window 240cm wide. I plan to have a chain system at the outside edge of each blind. Realistically how close can I expect the blinds to hang together?. I would like them ideally to butt up together for maximum heat retention.
Is there another alternative ?
Is there another alternative ?
Sew Helpful
You can always adjust the position of the blinds on the Velcro of the mechanism to get them close together. A 0.5cm gap between usually works well so they do not catch on each other. It wont matter if the blind slightly overhangs the end of the mechanism on the velcro as long as it is wide enough to keep the mechanism covered at the other end.
Reb
Are you able to use black-out lining? Or is this too thick for ease of movement?
Thank-you,
Thank-you,
Sew Helpful
You can make roman blinds with blackout lining no problem they fold up ok. The method in this tutorial would not take the blackout lining to each edge of the blind though (the lining is inset 2cm down each side). We make blackout blinds differently taking the blackout to the edge of the blind and do not make the rod pockets out of the blackout lining as we find it is too thick. We will look to make a tutorial explaining how at a later date.
Anita
I have finished and hung my blinds but there is a problem - the folds are not folding evenly so there is a crease at the side of each fold. What have I done wrong?
Sew Helpful
Can you email us a photo to help@sew-helpful.com.
Marion
I am using tape that holds the rods and thread the cord through but I dont know how to thread it using this technique, any idea please?
Sew Helpful
Quite often the tape has little loops on the back and you just thread the cord through those loops.
Marion
Sorry as I am a novice at this, yes the tape does have loops and so do I do it the same way as you have done with the eyelets so it draws up the same please?
Sew Helpful
Yes you would treat each loop as if it was a ring.
Sue
Ive just finished making my first blind. I found your instructions to be excellent - very clear and easy to follow. More hand stitching than I initially anticipated, but well worth it for the end result. Thank you!
Laurie
How many cords would you recommend for a blind, i.e. what is the maximum distance between cord rows you would recommend before adding another.
My finished blind will be 93cm wide. Would 3 cord drops be enough or should i add another?
Thank you in advance - instructions are great!
Sew Helpful
The setting out of the cords and how many is covered in step 8. 3 should be fine for that width.
Maureen
Not having made a Roman Blind for 21yrs I found your instructions a really helpful reminder blind turned out just right, just hope it is OK for the daughter and gets the approval.
Cecily
Thank you for your excellent instructions and videos. I've just hung my blind and am delighted with it. Having bought some beautiful and very expensive fabric I didn't want to have rows of stitching across it (the method I've used before machine stitches channels for the rods through both layers of fabric). With your method my blind looks like a piece of art, with not one visible stitch.
A week's access to your video tutorials was the best £3.95 I've spent.
Thank you!
A week's access to your video tutorials was the best £3.95 I've spent.
Thank you!
Sew Helpful
Thank you for the positive feedback, if there is anything you think we can improve on the videos and instructions please let us know. We would love to see a photo of your blind and post it on our "what you've made" Pinterest Board. If you want to send a photo please email it to help@sew-helpful.com.
Felicity Grice
I am making several blinds 177 cms wide and drops max 134 cms
These will be weightier than any previous efforts ( one has blackout lining)
Do I need stronger cord than 1.2 mm and larger eyelets on the batten?
If I use thicker cord say 2mm, when knotted will it fit in the cord connector.
Do I need a heavier weight bar at the bottom? I was planning to use
a wooden slat 3 wide x 5mm thick x 250 cms long to avoid joins.
Thank you so much
These will be weightier than any previous efforts ( one has blackout lining)
Do I need stronger cord than 1.2 mm and larger eyelets on the batten?
If I use thicker cord say 2mm, when knotted will it fit in the cord connector.
Do I need a heavier weight bar at the bottom? I was planning to use
a wooden slat 3 wide x 5mm thick x 250 cms long to avoid joins.
Thank you so much
Sew Helpful
On a batten we would use more cords rather than thicker cord. We do not use wooden slats but aluminium bottom bar on all blinds. On a very wide blind the bottom bar can distort with heat particularly if the blind is over a radiator. Some bars are better than others.
Trina
Hi. I want to make a Roman blind for a door in a recess. The space above the door is only a foot. Is it possible to calculate the finished length of the blind when is is up so I can be sure it will pull up into that foot of spare space and clear the door? Or is it trial and error! Thank you.
Sew Helpful
Yes, this is covered in step 2 of the tutorial when you calculate the dimensions of your blind. The size of the blind in the up position will be the "headrail allowance" and one "pleat section". Decide what your ideal pleat section size is and work throught the calculation to get the blind the right size above the door. Note you can always vary the Headrail Allowance (there is a minimum) to get the blind the exact size you want in the up position.
Novice
I've found your instructions very helpful thanks. I'm at the head batten stage. Does the batten have to be a certain depth to allow smooth running of the cord system? Mine is very shallow but enough space for the eye screws to go in. Thanks.
Sew Helpful
The only problem you may come up against is when the blind is pulled up the pleats may push outwards as there won't be that much room for them to stack underneath.
Helen
My finished blinds look great, but the front fabric sags in the middle of the blind as it is not attached to the lining / rods. I have put a few stitches to join the main fabric to the lining to stop the sagging, but it has started to pull and the holes are opening up where I have stitched. Do you have any ideas please?
Sew Helpful
Hi Helen
Did you sew in all the Stab Stitches in step 8. They hold the lining and fabric together and stop the problem you are describing.
Did you sew in all the Stab Stitches in step 8. They hold the lining and fabric together and stop the problem you are describing.
Rachel
Hi, and thanks for sharing your instructions. I am about to make a blind for my brother and will follow your videos, as it's a long time since I made one of these! My main concern at the moment is safety, because there are small children in his house. I know that shop-bought blinds all come with safety devices to meet the new regulations. So my question is: would a blind made like this meet the safety requirements? And if not, could any modifications be made to make the cords safer? Thanks.
Sew Helpful
You will find some information on blind safety here.
http://www.rospa.com/homesafety/info/blind-cord-safety.pdf
http://www.makeitsafe.org.uk
To make a blind compliant with the safety regulations you would need to use a blind kit that has been tested and approved, has the correct safety labling, incorporates cord breakouts, chain breakers or safety clips and has the correct chain/cord length in accordance with the regulations. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO CHECK WHAT THE REGULATIONS ARE IN YOUR COUNTRY AND FIND OUT WHAT YOU NEED TO COMPLY WITH.
There are compliant blindkits on the market.
http://www.rospa.com/homesafety/info/blind-cord-safety.pdf
http://www.makeitsafe.org.uk
To make a blind compliant with the safety regulations you would need to use a blind kit that has been tested and approved, has the correct safety labling, incorporates cord breakouts, chain breakers or safety clips and has the correct chain/cord length in accordance with the regulations. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO CHECK WHAT THE REGULATIONS ARE IN YOUR COUNTRY AND FIND OUT WHAT YOU NEED TO COMPLY WITH.
There are compliant blindkits on the market.
sue
I have made a roman blind which is 6 feet wide so I have used 9 lengths of cord, is there a device I can put all the cord ends into that wull attached to a n acorn as all 9 cords will not go throught an acorn hole
Sew Helpful
Not that we use. The size of the holes in acorns does vary and with a wooden one there is some scope to drill a bigger hole. We would use a chain pull cassette system on a blind that wide due to its weight, which would negate the problem.
Liz
I have just finished making my first Roman blind, and also used your brilliant tutorials to make my first pair of curtains. All blackout lined, and the curtains were patterned fabric, three widths in each and over 2 meter drop. I've not done any sewing since school and your written instructions and videos were amazing. I had considered a curtain making course - and I didn't need it. Thank you! When they are up, I'll post pictures to your facebook page.
Sew Helpful
We look forward to seeing the photos it would be great to add some more to our "What You've Made" Pinterest board.
Sara
I have upvc windows/frames and so there isn't anywhere to install a cleat hook (unless I drill into the plastic frame which I want to avoid).
Do you have any ideas on how to get around this issue? So far, I have found a top-fix cord-lock device (from Merrick and Day) to thread the cords through so that the blind length can be adjusted .
Looking at your diagram above, would I be right in thinking that using a cord-lock device would replace the last metal eyelet on the right side of the batten?
Do you have any ideas on how to get around this issue? So far, I have found a top-fix cord-lock device (from Merrick and Day) to thread the cords through so that the blind length can be adjusted .
Looking at your diagram above, would I be right in thinking that using a cord-lock device would replace the last metal eyelet on the right side of the batten?
Sew Helpful
We never drill into UPVC.
The cord-lock would be put there but I suspect it wouldn't be compliant with child safety regulations if you are in the UK.
The cord-lock would be put there but I suspect it wouldn't be compliant with child safety regulations if you are in the UK.
Heidi
i have made a roman blind that is 7 ft wide, when I attach it to the Velcro batten there seems to be too much fabric at the top, the measurements are all correct and the batten is 1cm narrower than the blind, any suggestions? I have also made 1 smaller blind to match and do not have this problem
Sew Helpful
Do you mean the blind is too wide for the batten. It should be slightly wider with a mximum of 0.5cm each side to enable you to position it correctly.
Or are you saying the blind is sagging in the middle at the top looking like it has excess fabric? If this is the case make sure the blind is attached tightly, level and taut on the velcro. Also check you have stab stitched correctly.
Or are you saying the blind is sagging in the middle at the top looking like it has excess fabric? If this is the case make sure the blind is attached tightly, level and taut on the velcro. Also check you have stab stitched correctly.
Mary
Hi , Please can you tell me if you can make a angle roman blind and how do you string it ? many thanks Mary
Sew Helpful
I'm sorry we don't understand what you mean by an angle roman blind. Can you explain what you mean.
Mary
for a side window that is say 10ins long and then 30 ins at other end ?
Sew Helpful
You can't make a Roman blind for that because the short side will be fully pulled up when the long side is only 1/3rd pulled up.
Anne
I've made several Roman blinds using cord but never the chain system. Do you have a tutorial video on this and is it basically the same system as using cords? Where can I buy the chain system?
Many thanks Anne
Many thanks Anne
Sew Helpful
We did have one but I have removed it as we will be making a new video in the new year that uses a child safe compliant system with breakout slip toggles. They are very staright forward to fit. If you google roman blind kit you should be able to find some. We are looking to supply these but are still testing the various kits on the market as they are still evolving due the new child safety legislation in the UK. Some of the inital solutions have not been quite right and we dont want to offer anything until we are happy with it's quality.
Sylvia coley
I cannot find out how much the chain link Roman blind kits cost., or if they are made in the size needed.
My window recess is 230cm wide & 117 cm drop.
Thank you for your instructions, they are most helpful
My window recess is 230cm wide & 117 cm drop.
Thank you for your instructions, they are most helpful
Sew Helpful
You can get them that wide. We buy them from a wholesaler. Online for a complete kit including rods you would probably pay about £80 plus delivery.
Sylvia Coley
Thank you for your previous help, as you know my blind is 230 cm wide, would three lines to pull up the blind be enough, or should there be more?
Sew Helpful
We would use more than 3 for that width. Refer back to STEP 8 stab stitching and attaching the rings. We recommend the number and spacing of cords/rings there.
Angela
I am making 6 roman blinds for a square bay window. 4 are 56" long and 2 are 80" long. How can a calculate the folds so they long and short ones look nice when raised as some are side by side? They are all to be raised to the same level.
Sew Helpful
I'm afraid we do not do calculations for people. But with this problem I would be looking along the lines of working out how I want the 56" blinds to be (fold size and top pleat size). Then jiggle the figures so the fold depth of the 56" is an exact even multiple of the difference between the 2 size blinds. (Ie 80-56=24) so 24" divided by the fold depth is an even number.
That would mean your 80" blind would have exacly the same top pleat and fold sizes as the 56" (it would just be a few sections longer).
That would mean your 80" blind would have exacly the same top pleat and fold sizes as the 56" (it would just be a few sections longer).
Catherine Muller
How does one remove the blind for washing? Must all the cords be undone & re-done afterwards?
Sew Helpful
We do not wash blinds. In our experience there will be some shrinkage and mostly likely at a different rate between the fabric and the lining causing it to pucker, and it will also probably end up smaller. If you were to wash it you would need to remove the rods, bottom bar and cords which will probably involve unstitching and restitching the ends of the pockets.
Kay
I've never made a blind before, let alone one in cotton velvet that is 2.5m in width. However, I found this tutorial invaluable - the instructions are so clear and my finished blind is something to be truly proud of. It took me time and patience but I prefer to do a proper job and to me, this blind is as close to professional quality as I could get without paying the big bucks! Thank you sew much sew helpful! :)
Fern
Can you.hang a Roman blind from a ceiling fixing. I have no wall space above the window in the recess.
Sew Helpful
Yes provided you can get a strong fixing. Most blind rail brackets can be ceiling fixed.
Gay Henrick
I have spent a long time measuring, hand sewing and making my roman blind. I am disappointed that the fabric looks quite limp however and wonder if there is a product that may stiffen it to look more crisp
Sew Helpful
We dont use any products. Unfortunately different fabrics make up differently some make great crisp blinds others are less suitable. It is crucial when making blinds to keep all the layers smooth, flat, gripped and pinned throughout the process (All in the Videos)
Send us a photo and we will see if there is any more advice we can give.
Send us a photo and we will see if there is any more advice we can give.
Gilly
I just want to thank you so much the very clear instructions; I have made cushion covers, table clothes and napkins before and cut down curtains which already have heading tape,in order to make matching pelmets for readymade curtains, but I thought a roman blind was far too ambitious. Nevertheless, I found your website and this along with the professionally made blinds I was replacing, made me determined to try. I adapted the spacing for rod pockets using the existing blinds for measurements (I think they must be cascading). Using your expert and precise instructions, I have created blinds which are even more professional looking than the previous ones which. I paid to have tailor made. I can't imagine why one of the comments on here says that your instructions are confusing for an experienced seamstress! My experience is very limited, yet I found them very comprehensive (I didn't even use the videos!) I used rod tape and found the results were best just sewing the top of the tape along the pale blue line, thus giving movement to the rod in up and down positions. Once again, thank you!
Noreen
If I am using a cord lock pulley and screw eyes, do I calculate my head rail allowance to the end of the cord lock or just to the end of the screw eye, thank you
Sew Helpful
I'm not sure where your cord lock is. Look at our blog and there is a post "head rail allowance explained"
Katharine
I am making a blind using the traditional rod pocket method and have found your instructions extremely helpful. However I am using a chain link kit to hang it and I am struggling to know how to attach the child safe breakout device to the bottom rod pocket. Do you have any suggestions?
Sew Helpful
You must follow the instructions with the kit to ensure it works. There are lots of different type on the market.
Katharine
I've realised the device is like a toggle and it will butt up to the bottom ring holding it in place. So I think I've answered my question. Sorry for the number of previous posts - not sure how that happened. Please delete the duplicates. Thanks again for your brilliant instructions.
Michelle
Hi
I have followed you tutorial to make a Roman blind.
However on hanging , the middle is sagging.
I have reinforced the poles as the blind is quite wide and made from good quality material however this has made no difference.
Is this to do with the cords or rings? Thanks
I have followed you tutorial to make a Roman blind.
However on hanging , the middle is sagging.
I have reinforced the poles as the blind is quite wide and made from good quality material however this has made no difference.
Is this to do with the cords or rings? Thanks
Sew Helpful
A few ideas
Do you have the correct spacing between cords?
Have you put in ALL the stab stitches as per the tutorial?
Did you watch the video on how to stab stitch properly?
Did you use the videos to see our techniques to get the blind square?
The wider the blind the more amplified any errors are.
Do you have the correct spacing between cords?
Have you put in ALL the stab stitches as per the tutorial?
Did you watch the video on how to stab stitch properly?
Did you use the videos to see our techniques to get the blind square?
The wider the blind the more amplified any errors are.
Emma
Hi, I've made the blinds with your tutorial and the folds don't form when the blind is pulled up. I wonder whether I've made a mistake? Did I'd need to stitch the liner to the fabric or did I need more rods???
Sew Helpful
Did you watch the videos?
Did you insert all the stab stitches correctly in STEP 8?
Did you insert all the stab stitches correctly in STEP 8?
Julie
I notice that you say that you never drill into upvc. I have 2 blinds to make for my friends upvc french doors. I was going to use batterns, what is the best way to fix them to the doors?
Sew Helpful
We wouldn't fix anything to the doors. We wouldn't do the job as the customer would be very quick to complain about any damage to the upvc.
JANE
I have tried several ways in the past to cover the stitch holes left in blackout lining, including tippex, but unfortunately never had much success until recently when I used bonding called Steam a Seam. I cut 2 cm deep strips of bonding and the same of blackout lining, long enough to cover pocket tape, then attached these by ironing to the wrong side of blackout lining. This gives a strong secure finish over the stitch line and covers the holes completely.
Sew Helpful
Thanks for sharing your tip Jane, we will give it a go.
Sandy
Are the roman shades machine washable?
Sew Helpful
We NEVER wash roman blinds. Different shrinkage rates between the fabric and the lining is likely to cause puckering and pulling on stitches. In our opinion it is very likely they will not be exactly the same size and not look good if you wash them.
Kerry
Many thanks for the excellent instructions. They were invaluable and I managed to follow them without any trouble at all.
sue
do roman blinds have to be lined because the material i am looking at has blackout in the material.
Sew Helpful
You can make roman blind without lining.
Pippa
Thank you SO much for these instructions! They were very easy to follow and made it a breeze :)
Amanda
Just purchased and watched your videos to make my first blind. They look great and very easy to follow. I've gone to start and found my fabric is shorter (width) than advertised. Am so disappointed. If I leave the selvage on, it will just be wide enough, would this work or do they have to be cut off? Thanks in advance.
Sew Helpful
No you dont have to cut the selvedge off. If it is pulling the fabric tight at the edges we sometimes snip it to ease the tension.
Julia Savory
I've just finished blind 3 of 4. 2 are identical handing side by side in a wool check fabric. I am very happy with the results and it's all down to the video showing me what to do. I have tried another method but it created an inferior looking blind. It is easy to follow these instructions and it's not at all complicated. It can feel long-winded on the first blind but it soon starts to make sense and getting all the little details right as you go is totally logical. Wherever I go I look at roman blinds and I think mine are better which is astonishing given that I am a beginner. I just had two delivered from Laura Ashley and I don't think they are a patch on what I've made. So thank you.
Sew Helpful
Thanks for the kind comments
Sandra Barnes
With the chain link cassette system, how do you calculate how much chain will be required to pull the blind up and down, without it getting stuck because of the child friendly joiner on the chain?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Sew Helpful
You need to follow the instructions that came with your mechanism.
Sandra Barnes
Does vanishing pen fade eventually? It is still evident on mine 4 days later, with no sign of going.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Sew Helpful
Our pens have an eraser. I cant really say what what your pen does (what do the instructions with it say).
Before you try anything to remove the marks I would strongly advise you mark a spare piece of fabric and test that first. You could mark or stain your blind trying to remove the marks. The first thing I would try is buy a pen with an eraser and see if that works on a test piece of fabric.
There is some info about vanishing pens here (might be different to yours, its not the one we use)
VANISHING PEN
It ultimately says test it works on your fabric before you use it.
Before you try anything to remove the marks I would strongly advise you mark a spare piece of fabric and test that first. You could mark or stain your blind trying to remove the marks. The first thing I would try is buy a pen with an eraser and see if that works on a test piece of fabric.
There is some info about vanishing pens here (might be different to yours, its not the one we use)
VANISHING PEN
It ultimately says test it works on your fabric before you use it.
Nicole
Thank you for such great instruction videos!
Just to confirm, is there a 14th video as indicated during purchase? I can only find 13 of them.
Just to confirm, is there a 14th video as indicated during purchase? I can only find 13 of them.
Sew Helpful
There is a link to the 14th video in STEP 6. "How to join patterned Fabric".
This video used to be embedded into that page but as it is a general step in most of the tutorials but not always needed by the person making, we made it into a linked mini tutorial. It is a must watch video if you are making a blind (or indeed a curtain) and need to join patterned fabric.
This video used to be embedded into that page but as it is a general step in most of the tutorials but not always needed by the person making, we made it into a linked mini tutorial. It is a must watch video if you are making a blind (or indeed a curtain) and need to join patterned fabric.
Nicole
Thanks again! Sorry for the double comment, I thought my first one disappeared.
Sew Helpful
No Probs, unless you refresh your page in the browser, the comment doesn't show up unfortunatley. A quirk of the system.
Nicole
First, thank you so much for the great tutorials!
I just wanted to confirm, I purchased to watch your videos but can only see 13 of them. Just wondering, am I missing a 14th video? Here are the ones I can see:
Lining - cut to size
Lining - turn in sides and hem
Lining - Make rod pockets
Plain fabric
Patterned fabric
All fabric - turn in sides and hem
Join fabric to lining
Form the heading
Finish heading and mark stab stitch
Stab stitch
Insert the rods and Attach rings
Make headrail batten
String and hangThanks!
I just wanted to confirm, I purchased to watch your videos but can only see 13 of them. Just wondering, am I missing a 14th video? Here are the ones I can see:
Lining - cut to size
Lining - turn in sides and hem
Lining - Make rod pockets
Plain fabric
Patterned fabric
All fabric - turn in sides and hem
Join fabric to lining
Form the heading
Finish heading and mark stab stitch
Stab stitch
Insert the rods and Attach rings
Make headrail batten
String and hangThanks!
Pam Wash
I am using plain heavyweight canvas fabric which I need to join to fit window. Would it be OK turn the fabric so selvedge is at the top and join across a rod pocket rather than join fabric on each side as in your instructions .
Fiona
I have just finished making two large interlined Roman blinds following your excellent instructions, I am so pleased with how they look. Thank you for making these instructions available and so clear and easy to follow.
I am using a mechanised headrail with a metal chain which was a bit too short as the window is very tall. I have extended the chain length with a connector but now it will only pull up half way. Do I need to replace the whole chain or just the position of the connector? I just can't seem to work it out! Thank you
I am using a mechanised headrail with a metal chain which was a bit too short as the window is very tall. I have extended the chain length with a connector but now it will only pull up half way. Do I need to replace the whole chain or just the position of the connector? I just can't seem to work it out! Thank you
Sew Helpful
The chain joiner will not go through the mechanism gear, so the most movement you will get is the length of the chain even if you position the joiner. Large blinds generally need geared mechanisms to lift the weight so I suspect you are going to need a new longer complete chain.
You can buy chain joining tools to avoid the joining link but these are pricey for a one off job.
You can buy chain joining tools to avoid the joining link but these are pricey for a one off job.
Fiona
Thanks for your reply. I managed to replace the complete chain..the blinds are certainly quite heavy to pull up. Also the folds need a little bit of help to sit neatly in place even with plenty of stab stitches. I am hoping the folds will eventually sit neatly after a bit of use. Would you recommend a maximum width for a Roman Blind?
Sew Helpful
There is no maximum, the larger they are the harder they are to make well though. We personally think blinds are best suited up to a maximum of 1 width of fabric.
Susan Sheehan
Hi,
I am making a very small blind, 90 x 40cm and the headrail is 2.5 cm.I only need one rod pocket but I am unsure where to place it. Can to tell me how far down the blind it needs to go please?
Thanks
Thanks
Sew Helpful
Hi Susan
We dont make bespoke calcuations, but have gone through this question for you in the STEP 2 comments section
We dont make bespoke calcuations, but have gone through this question for you in the STEP 2 comments section
Susan Sheehan
Thanks. I did use your calculator in step 2 to try and work it out, but it bases the calculation on a minimum 5cm headrail. I am using an existing 2.5 cm one, so it throws the rest of the calculation out. Could you tell me how to work the placing of the rod pocket based on the 2.5 cm please?
Thanks
Thanks
Sew Helpful
You cannot have a headrail allowance of 2.5cm, (that will not be enough) you need some room under the headrail as well as the depth of the headrail, hence our suggestion of using 6cm headrail allowance in the answer in STEP 2 comments section.
2.5cm headrail allowance is not enough, use a headrail allowance of 6cm or more.
If you use 6cm that leaves 40 - 6 =34
divide by 3 for one rod= 34/3 =11.333 per pleat section
Front face when pulled up = 11.33 + 6 =17.33cm
There is an explaination of headrail allowance in our blog that will show you why you can't use 2.5cm
2.5cm headrail allowance is not enough, use a headrail allowance of 6cm or more.
If you use 6cm that leaves 40 - 6 =34
divide by 3 for one rod= 34/3 =11.333 per pleat section
Front face when pulled up = 11.33 + 6 =17.33cm
There is an explaination of headrail allowance in our blog that will show you why you can't use 2.5cm
Susan Sheehan
Thanks. I did use your calculator in step 2 to try and work it out, but it bases the calculation on a minimum 5cm headrail. I am using an existing 2.5 cm one, so it throws the rest of the calculation out. Could you tell me how to work the placing of the rod pocket based on the 2.5 cm please?
Thanks
Thanks
Susan Sheehan
Hi,I am making a very small blind, 90 x 40cm and the headrail is 2.5 cm.I only need one rod pocket but I am unsure where to place it. Can to tell me how far down the blind it needs to go please?
Thanks
Thanks
Sharon Leitch
I just wanted to say thank you, I haven't used a sewing machine in years and I managed to use these step by step instructions, without the videos and am delighted with the result. Now to do the whole house :)
Clare W
Fantastic instructions - this was my first time making a blind and I am so pleased with the results. Thanks
Anne C
I am making some blinds for a friend and the fabric they have chosen is semi-transparent. The shop she bought it from advised her to use blackout lining show the fabric off better. The blind will require two widths of fabric and I normally put a whole panel in the centre and extra fabric on either side. So how can I avoid seeing the fabric and lining joins that would normally be inside the blind?
Sew Helpful
It's a transparent fabric so you cant. `The only way to avoid joins would be to use the fabric and lining sideways (if it is plain and looks ok sideways and the width would be sufficient for the drop without a join). If you can find it double width blackout would help.
Val S
May I say, this tutorial has been excellent. I have made a roman blind before with a few little mistakes. It was so nice to be to be shown how to make it the professional way, Thank you I am very pleased with the result due to your guidance.
Linda
When the blind was laying flat it looks absolutely perfect. When it is mounted on the cassette you can see very faint indentations where the stab stitches are. Have I done something wrong please?
Sew Helpful
No, you do get indentations at the stab stitches. These are more noticeable on a plain fabric. It also depends on the softness of the fabric. Stiff fabrics make up better than soft viscose ones.
Linda
I needed a break from my blind and carefully folded it in its exact folds and left it for a week. Went back to it and I think it has “settled” and now seems perfect. I think resting with it’s folds in place finished it off perfectly.
Linda
I am just thrilled with my blind and am so grateful fir your wonderful videos and instructions. For me sewing is a solitary activity and I found I picked up so many tips being “in the workshop”. Seeing things done was so helpful. I note that you have said you make and use your own rod pocket tape. I would find some instructions on that very helpful. Thank you again. I will purchase your instructions again when I make my next blind.
Jo
I am making a roman blind that requires using a combined blackout/thermal lining. Have you a tutorial explaining how to sew with blackout lining please? Thank you.
Kate
Thank you for very clear instructions. It took me a long time (months) to complete the blind, so I think the videos would have helped me (not quite sure why I didn't think of that at the start!). My daughter and I are pleased with the result. Thank you again.
LEONIE WILSON
Please could you tell me which roman blind kits you use or would recommend.
Many thanks,
Leonie
Many thanks,
Leonie
Sew Helpful
We use premium headrails from a trade only wholesaler, they are geared, use thicker gauge aluminium than standard and have a disc pull out safety system.
There are lots of options on the internet (you get what you pay for). Try looking at Merrick and Day
There are lots of options on the internet (you get what you pay for). Try looking at Merrick and Day
Sarah
How can I sew a blind using blackout fabric ? It is for a bedroom and I don’t want the light to show through the stitching.
Sew Helpful
There will be some pinprick light through the stab stitches. We will be making a tutorial on how we now make blackout blinds.
carole james
I have made blinds for a bay window. The cord is catching on the edge of the blind when pulling it up. How can I stop this? T
Sew Helpful
If you are not pulling the cord down it can rub. Try moving the eyelet ring to the edge of the batten.
Caroline Richardson
Do you iron the folds in before hanging or do you just let them fall? Thanks.
Sew Helpful
We definately do NOT iron the folds in. We let them fall.
Julie
Thank you so much for these very clear instructions. I spent about 50% of my time planning and measuring and 50% actually making the blind. Its worth it as the calculations are key and your online calculator is brilliant for checking. This was my first sewing project for a number of years and I'm really pleased with the result. I used a ready made cassette kit and repurposed my bedroom curtains.
Thank you so much for putting this on line.
Thank you so much for putting this on line.
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