BLIND SAFETY
Blind Safety

This website is viewed globally and at the last time of looking had been used by people from 136 different countries.

The instructions and videos on this website show you the traditional methods of making a roman blind. Many countries have introduced safety regulations with respect to child safety, to reduce the threat of injury or strangulation to young children from the cords of roman blinds.

It is your responsibilty to find out what the regulations are for your country and modify these instructions to make your blind compliant with those regulations

Examples of safety advice and rules used by some countries of the world are:

  • Do not place furniture or beds near windows where children can climb up and access the blind cords.
  • For roman blinds with rod pockets greater than 20cms apart at any point a breakaway device must be used on each cord.
  • The cleat must be 150cms from the floor and accumulate all/most of the cord – only a single cord of no more than 20cms can hang below the cleat.
  • The bottom loop of the chain or cord must be 150cms from the floor and secured with a safety device OR If the operating chain/cord has a breakaway device then the bottom loop of the cord/chain can be 60cms from the floor.
  • Some countries require that all the blind's components have been tested and certified when used together.

BLIND SAFETY
Blind Safety

This website is viewed globally and at the last time of looking had been used by people from 136 different countries.

The instructions and videos on this website show you the traditional methods of making a roman blind. Many countries have introduced safety regulations with respect to child safety, to reduce the threat of injury or strangulation to young children from the cords of roman blinds.

It is your responsibilty to find out what the regulations are for your country and modify these instructions to make your blind compliant with those regulations

Examples of safety advice and rules used by some countries of the world are:

  • Do not place furniture or beds near windows where children can climb up and access the blind cords.
  • For roman blinds with rod pockets greater than 20cms apart at any point a breakaway device must be used on each cord.
  • The cleat must be 150cms from the floor and accumulate all/most of the cord – only a single cord of no more than 20cms can hang below the cleat.
  • The bottom loop of the chain or cord must be 150cms from the floor and secured with a safety device OR If the operating chain/cord has a breakaway device then the bottom loop of the cord/chain can be 60cms from the floor.
  • Some countries require that all the blind's components have been tested and certified when used together.

Materials
  • - Fabric
  • - Lining
  • - Thread
  • - Velcro Loop Tape
  • - Cord
  • - Rods
  • - Bottom Bar
  • - Rings
  • Tools
  • - Sewing Machine
  • - Tape Measure
  • - Needles
  • - Scissors
  • - Set Square
  • - Straight Edge
  • - Invisible Marker
  • Options
  • - Invisible Marker
  • - Velcro Hook Tape
  • - Screw Eyes
  • - Acorn
  • - Cleat Hook
  • - Cord
  • - Staple Gun
  • or
  • - Headrail Kit
  • - Hacksaw
  • Watch the videos for full step by step tution of the instructions and expert tips from the workshop

    Video User Comments

    I love your videos they have given me the confidence to make my own curtains and blinds....Julie

    Your videos are so good, thank you…..Alex

    Once again, I should say that I think the video tutorials are extremely well done. Although I've been sewing for years I've learnt lots of techniques that are new to me and that give a much more professional finish........Heather

    Thank you for such brilliant tutorials and videos....... ....Barbara

    I have absolutely loved your videos for curtain making, I have learnt so much from you….Charlotte

    Step 5: Make up the Lining
    Printable Worksheet
    Printable Worksheet

    CUT LINING DROP(S)

    Cut the lining to the length of the "lining cut drop" calculated in step 4.

    • Lining Cut Drop = Finished Blind Length + 5cm heading allwnce + 9cm hem allwnce + allowance per rod pocket

    Take care to cut the lining straight and square across the bottom. Note we add a 5cm trimming allowance to the initial cut lengths to allow for trimming them square.

    JOINING LINING PANELS (if required)

    Join the lining widths with a plain seam.

    • Press the seams open (No Steam)
    • Check the bottom of the panels are straight, if not trim.

    See our BASICS   tutorial section for extra info on how to join lining with a plain seam.

    CUT TO SIZE

    Cut the lining panel so its width is the same as the finished width of the blind.

    This video shows you
    • How to cut the lining straight.
    • How to cut the lining square (Very important).
    • Why we mark the lining with a pin in the bottom.

    TURN IN SIDES & HEM

    • With the lining facing wrong side up fold each side (left and right) in 2cm and press.
    • Check the lining is square and the sides are at true right angles.
    • We are now going to mark out the double hem at the bottom of the lining. Measure up each side and mark two horizontal lines across, one 4cm up from the bottom of the lining and the other another 5cm up, which will be 9cm from the bottom. The 9cm line marks the eventual BOTTOM of the BLIND.
    • Turn the lining over RIGHT SIDE UP.
    • Fold the lining up from the bottom along the first marked line (4cm), making sure the line along the bottom is perfectly square with the lining sides. Then press. *Note: The lining is folded up to the right side not behind to the wrong side as you might expect.
    • Fold the lining up again along the next mark checking the bottom of the lining is perfectly square with the sides. Then press.
    This video shows you
    • How to mark and press the side turns.
    • How to measure, pin and press the hem.

    MAKE ROD POCKETS

    FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS IN RED IF USING ROD POCKET TAPE, OTHERWISE IF MAKING TRADITIONAL ROD POCKETS FROM THE LINING FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS IN BLACK.

    *Note: Do not measure the next rod pocket position until the previous rod pocket is sewn in.

    • Unfold the bottom hem.
    • Measure up from the bottom of the lining panel to the first rod pocket. (note the top crease line marks the bottom of the blind so you measure up 9cm plus the fold depth)
    • With a straight edge mark a horizontal line between the rod pocket marks on each side of the lining. (measure this line at intervals across the blind and make sure it is square with the edge of the lining.)
    • You now have the first rod pocket marked ready for sewing.
    • Cut the roman blind tape to the width of the lining (after the sides had been turned in) plus 2cm
    • Pin the tape along the marked line, leaving 1cm of spare tape at each side. ( Note some tapes are sew along the bottom others sew along the top, check your tape instructions to see whether you position the tape above or below the sew line)
    • Machine the tape to the lining along the marked line.
    • Measure up each side again from the bottom of the lining panel to the next rod pocket and repeat the process until all the rod pockets (tapes) are sewn on.
    • ** Note it is important to mark and sew in each rod pocket one at a time and measure from the BOTTOM of the LINING to prevent compound errors.

    *Note: Do not measure the next rod pocket position until the previous rod pocket is sewn in.

    • Unfold the bottom hem.
    • Measure up from the bottom of the lining panel to the first rod pocket. (note the top crease line marks the bottom of the blind so you measure up 9cm plus the fold depth)
    • With a straight edge mark a horizontal line between the rod pocket marks on each side of the lining. (measure this line at intervals across the blind and make sure it is square with the edge of the lining.)
    • On each side measure up the rod pocket allowance from the rod pocket line and again mark a second line across
    • You now have the first rod pocket marked ready for sewing.
    • Pinch the two horizontal rod pocket lines together so the wrong sides touch together and the right side bulges out. Pin into place then machine down the touching lines to form the rod pocket. After stitching press the pocket and check it is at a right angle to the side of the lining.
    • Measure up each side again from the bottom of the lining panel to the next rod pocket and repeat the process until all the rod pockets are sewn in.
    • ** Note it is important to mark and sew in each rod pocket one at a time and measure from the BOTTOM of the LINING to prevent compound errors.

    This video shows you
    • How to measure and mark the rod pockets.
    • The diagram of the rod pocket positions we draw before we start.
    • How we sew the rod pocket in on the machine.
    • How we check the rod pocket positions as we go.

    Extra Help & Comments

    Sew Helpful
    Post your questions and comments here, we will reply so everyone can see the answer. 
    Emma
    Hi there, is the fold depth equal to twice the pleat section? Many thanks.
    Sew Helpful
    No if you look at step 2 the fold depth is the same as a pleat section. At the bottom of the blind you have one pleat section before the first rod pocket up, then 2 pleat sections before any other rod  pocket as you move up the blind. Also remember when the blind is made up the top pleat section is bigger than the others because it includes the headrail allowance where you attach the blind to the baton.
    Peggy
    I have rufflette Roman Blind tape. Does that mean I don't need to make allowances for the rods as these will go through the tape. How long do my rods have to be?
    Sew Helpful
    Yes with rod pocket tape the rods go through the tape so you will need less lining fabric as you are not making the rod pockets out of the lining panel. You sew the tape onto the lining.

    Cut your rods so they are about 1cm shorter than your rod pockets.

    How to make a blind with rod pocket tape is coming in a later tutorial.
    Lesley
    Hi. Found your instructions really helpful. Please can I ask you do you use glass fibre rods or wooden dowelling. And what width batten do you use in the bottom.

    Many thanks
    Sew Helpful
    We use glass fibre rods which are not as thick as wooden dowels and white coated aluminium rectangular bottom bar that is approx 25mm high and 3mm thick. The glass fibre rods are very good but when cutting them you need to be careful that you don\'t get any tiny splinters in your fingers.
    Margaret Alexander
    Thank you for prompt reply. Since I am not making rod pockets I am using rod tape. When I join lining to front fabric surely the seam allowances will effect the width of the blind. Do I need to allow more or less to front fabric. This has always been a problem for me I usually have to unpick and retry to get correct blind width . Is there a formulae for this. Thank you
    Sew Helpful
    Hi Margaret


    You should have the width of the blind sorted in STEP 6 when you make up the fabric panel and fold in the 5cm side turns. This sets the width of the blind. The 5 cm folded fabric seam allowances (now on the back of the blind) give you the fabric to join the narrower lining panel to the blind (2cm narrower each side - with its own side turns). The lining panel is attached with hand slip stitching in STEP 7

    extract from STEP 6 

    TURN IN SIDES & HEM

    • Place the fabric panel right side up and mark the 5cm side allowances with dashes of vanishing marker pen (or pins).
    • Turn the fabric over right side down and fold in the side allowances. Checking the width is the finished width of the blind all the way up and the bottom is straight and at a true right angle.
    It sounds like you are trying to make your blind a different way using a bag method. This tutorial shows you the way we make them professionally in our sewing workshop.

    If you dont know how to slip stitch and think using the machine is easier, watch the videos, I think it will suprise you how much better and easier hand stitching is if you are shown how to do it properly.

    Patricia
    Hi, could you please confirm which is the right and wrong side of the lining for me. Is the right side, the side which faces the window and the wrong side the side which backs on the the back of the fabric? Many thanks.
    Sew Helpful
    Please see the answer above
    Anne
    Do I only sew along the blue line of the tape - do I not sew along both long sides when attaching tape to fabric
    Sew Helpful
    There is no blue line or tape in the tutorial. We have no idea what tape you are using so do not know how it is designed to be attached.
    Anne
    I am using rufflette roman blind tape - ruflette gives instructions to sew along the blue sewing line at top of tape but does not say if should sew at the bottom - basicall do I sew along tob and botton when attaching tape to fabric
    Sew Helpful
    We have not used the product so dont know. Some tapes do attach with just one stitch line.
    Janet
    I have made a couple of small roman blinds and I really struggle to get them square. I have used a set square but it still takes me forever to get the blind to look straight. Is there a special knack for getting the blind square. I find it just as hard on patterned material? I don\\\'t have a large table to work on either so I have to make do using the carpet in my lounge! Can you please help.
    Sew Helpful
    Getting your Roman Blind square is key to making a good Roman Blind. The videos show some techniques on how to get the blind and lining square and when to check it through the make up process.
    melanie
    Hi,
    Can I just check? When I sew the pockets for the rods do I keep the side turnings folded and sew over those too?
    Sew Helpful
    You keep the sides turned in but do not sew the ends closed as you still have to insert the rods later. The videos show you how to do it.
    Margy
    Hi again, when you have more than one blind to make do you make the first blind, then the second or do you cut lining, facing material all at the same time? I just wondered how you approach it. Thank you.
    Sew Helpful
    Hi we do not have a set way, sometimes we may make all the linings up as we wait for the fabric to be delivered. Other times we will make them one at a time.
    Sheridan Colson
    Excellent tutorials!!
    How do you correct the lining if the blind is not square? I cant take any more off the sides as the are already the right size. I can however take more off the bottom.
    Many thanks
    Sew Helpful
    Hi Sheridan

    If you are following the video your sides should be parallel, it will then show you how to make the bottom square. If you have cut the width and the sides are not quite square the crucial thing is the lining is square when the side turns are folded in in the next step. So you have a chance to get it right there if it is a small adjustment. The lining you fold under is not used so it wont matter if it is a few mm short.

    Alternatively it wont matter if you trim the lining a little more to get the panel straight and square at this stage and then make the side turns slightly less than 2cm in the next stage to compensate.
    Sheridan Colson
    Sorry me again!!
    Great answer to the above. Thanks!
    I was also wondering how I cope with larger blinds. I am making 4 that are all over a metre wide and am finding it quite hard to measure. Do you have any tips?
    Sew Helpful
    The better your tools and facilities are the easier it will be to get good results.

    A decent sized table that you can lay the blind out on with a straight edge and a true right angle at the corner is very useful. You can check the side and right angle of the blind against it. We purposely didnt use that method in the video as most beginners dont have one. A ply board covered with lining fabric layed on a smaller table is a relatively cheap way of doing this.

    A long metal ruler and the large set square like the ones in the video are a great help as well. For making wider blinds you can buy even longer metal rulers. 
    Pauline Davenport
    Please can you tell me if I sew the tapes onto the lining before I attach it to the main fabric?. Great tutorials, so easy to follow your step by step instructions!!. Thank you.
    Sew Helpful
    You would make the lining up and attach the rod pocket tape to the lining at the point where you would sew the rod pockets into the lining. Then follow the rest of the instructions attaching the lining then to the fabric etc.
    Barbara Cole
    Hello
    I am using Ruflette Rod Pocket tape which has just one blue sewing line. I understand that I don't need to add on the 2.5 cms. Am I right in assuming that I machine the top of the tape on the first measurement line ie the measurement before you added the extra 2.5 cms for the rod pocket.
    Sew Helpful
    I'm sorry we are not familiar with the tape. Can the vendor who sold the tape tell you how to position and sew it on.
    Barbara Cole
    Hello
    I have cut my lining 2 cms wider than my finished fabic width. The cuts are perfectly straight and square although 2cms wider than your instructions. I am afraid to risk cutting again and spoiling the straight edges.
    Would it be ok to fold in 3 cms each side instead of 2 cms

    Thank you for such brilliant tutorials the videos are great and very informative.
    Sew Helpful
    Should be fine with 3cm side turns rather than 2cm.
    Leanne
    Hi. Just wondering, how do I know how wide my rod pockets need to be?

    Thank you
    Sew Helpful
    They will be the width of the lining on a lined blind as in the instructions.
    Catherine
    Hi, the first video on this page says format not available and I can't view it. Can you advise please? Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    What are you trying to view the video with? PC, Mac Iphone etc and which browser. It is running fine on our systems.

    Please send your answer via the Contact Us link at the bottom of the page so we have your email to make replies.
    Maddy
    Hi, I am using lining with the interlining attached not sure what it's called. Would I still follow the same steps ? For the hem etc ?

    Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    You will have the following dificulties making the blind with a combined lining interliner this way rather than using cotton lining.

    1. You will not be able to iron the folds crisply.
    2. The lining may be a bit thick forming the rod pockets
    We make a blind with combined lining interliner a different way using rod pocket tape and a different construction.I see you have purchased the videos Contact us via email at help@sew-helpful.com and I will be able to send you some photos and an explaination of that method. 
    Krystle
    Hi,

    Where did you get your triangle ruler from?
    Sew Helpful
    It was from a wholesaler. Try Merrick and Day online they may have them.
    HILARY
    What a wonderful website and instructions I look forward to your reply re my question made earlier
    Sew Helpful
    The reply is on the page you asked the question. (Step 1 page of this tutorial)
    Linda
    I need to buy tape rings and cord but can't find them in shops
    Help
    Sew Helpful
    WHere you would be putting fixed rings the tapes often have loops of fabric on the back designed to thread the cord through to negate the requirement for rings. We buy the cord in 200m rolls wholesale so I'm afraid cant help there.
    Vanessa
    Great website and instructions. I notice that on a blind
    I had made for me there are punched holes with eyelets for the cords to go through. Do you know of a machine I could buy to make the eyelets, one that is more sophisticated than just using a hammer please? All thoughts would be really welcome. Thanks.
    Sew Helpful
    This is what we've tried out. One tool punches the hole the other seals the eyelet on. We found that they didn't grip very well on the lining so have stuck to rings as we think they are more durable.

    Eyelet tools
    Joan
    I have a triangle and a metal ruler-the longest I could get which is 1 metre. One of my blinds will be 140cm wide ( I have 1cm wide fabric) . How do I ensure that my blind remains square as obviously I will not be able to reach across the full width of the fabric with a 1mtre long ruler. Hope this makes sense !
    Sew Helpful
    Our techniques for getting the fabric square are all in the videos. I see you have just started to watch them I will email you to point you in the right direction and let you know what you will need to do with the wider fabric.
    Joanna Berridge
    Total drop 71cm - minus 6 headrail = 66 divided into 5 equal parts = 13cm per section.(Total cut length = 85 cm) Calculated first rod pocket 22cm up from bottom and 2nd rod 48 cm. But having pinned to just check by the window before sewing, I have seen that the folds are too near each other and i want more material to show and have total fixed draw up length of £28 cm to hide top part of window. How do I recalculate?
    Sew Helpful
    We dont do personal caluculations but if you have a total drop of 71cm,  want a 28cm top panel and are finding your folds are too small, try dividing by 3 rather than 5. 


    Carol
    Hello there, when turning and pressing 2cm on each side of the lining is this all 4 sides?

    Kind regards
    Sew Helpful
    No just the left and the right side. I'll adjust the text to make it clearer.
    Trish
    OOPS! Read all my next instructions last night, set to this morning and thought I'd done really well. Sadly not. Have sewn rod pockets on wrong side of lining!!!
    Will I be able to work around this or will I need to unpick and sew on right side?
    Many thanks again.
    Sew Helpful
    We wouldn't unpick we would start again with new lining as the hassle of unpicking and the lines left in the lining mean it is just easier just to start again. 

     
    kirsty
    Hi, I have just realised I have sewn my rod tape on at the bottom instead of the top. Will this badly affect my blind. Wondering if i need to unpick it,done it for all 5 pieces of tape!!
    Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    The main thing is that your stitch line is a single stitch line in the correct place on the lining as this is the line the blind will be pulled up from and needs to be in the correct position. By stitching the bottom of the tape it will now flop outwards away from the blind when the blind is down rather than just hang flat against the blind. We haven't done this before so can't say whether the tape flapping out will affect the blinds smooth operation. The tape we have used in the past is rufflette and specifies sewing along the top as to whether sewing along the bottom will really make a difference we don't know.


    Rachel
    HI, I've just made my 1st lining as per the video...but have lots more fabric at the top than I think I should have.

    Width of window is 70, height 142.5.
    I'm going for 3 rod pockets. So when calculating the lining, from the bottom I have:
    4cm, then 5cm, then 19.4, then 2 cm for a rod, then 38.8, 2cm rod, 38.8, 2cm rod, 38.8 and 6.5 for a headrail allowance...but instead of 6.5, i've got 11.7 left over..

    I can't see where I've gone wrong in my calks...I've done a sketch out as you do in your videos...

    can you point me in the right direction please? Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    Your figures and the length of your lining look exactly right. The extra 5.2cm is the 5cm heading allowance which you will need when you fold the top of the blind over to form the heading in STEP 8. Don't confuse headrail allowance which is part of the length of the blind and heading allowance that you need to make the heading.
    Ruth
    Hi, I'm loving your tutorial & following it to make my first blind. I've opted to use rod tape & wondered when I sew it onto the lining do the loops for the strings face up (showing) or down (against the lining)?
    Sew Helpful
    Generally you sew rod pocket tape on with one stitch line along the top of the tape.Click on the red instructions in the tutorial for more info on using rod pocket tape.
    Julie simpson
    How do you measure the width accurately along the length when you have joined lining. You have the video showing how to get it straight with a short width using the set square but not for joined lining where the ruler isn't long enough to go across the who width to the other side.
    Sew Helpful
    In the workshop we use longer rulers for wider blinds. On much bigger blinds we use very large TBars on our large perfectly square table with straight edges.
    Jean
    I wpould like the folds to be staggered when blind is up rather than standard. How do I calculate this?
    Sew Helpful
    We haven't written those instructions yet.
    faye
    hi there, thanks so much for the brilliant tutorial. in the section on turning in sides and hem point 1 in the text says have the fabric wrong side up and mark seams, then point 4 says turn fabric over to RIGHT side up. however in the video tutorial you say start with fabric right side up and mark in seams, then flip over to wrong side up... which is right? sorry if i'm not reading it right..
    thanks!
    Sew Helpful
    Both

    The video has extra information and extra steps that show you the techniques we use to mark the seams so you end up with the fabric facing wrong side up with the side turns folded in (step 1). If you read the text in step 1 it doesn't tell you to mark the seams it tells you to fold the seams.
    Marylin
    How do I calculate where to put the rod pockets?i know I need two but what distance apart should they be please
    Sew Helpful
    How to calculate the dimensions of the blind and the rod pocket positions is covered in STEP 2. There is also a link to an online calculator there that may also be of help.
    Jay
    I have my main fabric and lining fabric cut and squared off, alll seams ironed in etc. I have sewn 3 rod pockets into the lining (on the right side of the lining) I turned in the side hems and hand sewed the lining and main fabric together as instructed.....as I was doing this it became apparent that the rod pockets will be sewn downwards.....PLUS into the side seams, So ive definitely gone wrong somewhere? Im sure i dont need to split the rod pockets to insert the rods as this would look messy. Im using this method as appears cheaper than my old method of buying rod tape. But im stumped and have reread the instructions and cant see where ive gone wrong ;-( thank you
    Sew Helpful
    It sounds like you have

    a) done it in the wrong order, If you look at the instructions you fold in the side turns and hem of the lining, THEN sew in the rod pockets,

    Or I suspect more likely

    b) when you have sewn the lining on to the fabric you have sewn the end of the rod pockets to the fabric. It sounds like you have done this  as you say  (it became apparent that the rod pockets will be sewn downwards) which is WRONG! that is not in the instructions. You do not sew the ends of the rod pockets.

    Have you watched the videos they show everything in great detail.
    Claire
    Hi, when I stitch the rod pockets, am I sewing on the wrong or right side of the lining?
    Thanks!
    Sew Helpful
    You should only be able to stitch on the right side. It is shown in detail in the videos.
    paula
    I am going to try make my first blind for a window that is 132cm wide... to avoid joining lengths of fabric can I use 2.5cm seam allowances on the sides and have the fabric and lining join exactly along the sides...will this look ok?
    Sew Helpful
    We wouldn't do that, but understand why you want to. If you do it that way, try and keep the lining a little bit in from the edges so it does join right at the sides.
    Laura
    Making my first blind with your videos which are very clear. Wondered where your vanishing pen is from? I bought one in dunelm but it doesn't fade well at all and ironing the fabric with the pen mark still visible seems to set the ink in permanently. Maybe it's my lining fabric but thought I would ask, as I currently don't think I can get away with drawing straight lines across the lining fabric. Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    We use Hancocks Vanishing Pencils with Erasers on the end. Try Merrick and Day online.
    Emma Evans
    Hi.
    I need to make some blinds that are just over a width of fabric, so I thought I would add 2 panels in contrasting fabric! Do I apply the same principle in that everything needs to be square & cut to size before I join it to the main fabric? When the panels are joined, do I then square it all again?
    Where did u buy your really long ruler from that I can use across to widths of fabric? I can' t seem to find any!
    Thanks for your help in advance.
    Sew Helpful
    We would make up the panel with the borders and treat it as one panel trimming and squaring off. You will obviously have to take into account the fabric needed for the side turns when calculating the width of the fabric strips to join to each side.

    We have made blinds with 10-15cm side borders, that size that came up well.

    Try Merrick and Day for the 1.5m long T-Bar ruler, otherwise we do have a 1.8m ruler that is a plasterer's aluminium feather edge that we purchsed from Travis Perkins builders merchants.

    long ruler 

    long ruler
    Carole
    Your tutorial is very useful and I have made blinds with rod pockets as you describe. I also made rod pockets by stitching two rows of machine stitching 1.5cm apart through both fabric and lining after the two fabrics were joined. It worked well and was easier than stab stitching. The stitching does not show on the front because it is a highly patterned fabric. Can you foresee any drawbacks to doing it this way? (I have 6 more blinds to make!)
    Sew Helpful
    The drawback to that method for us is that you will see stitch lines through to the front of the blind. You will also have to make sure your stitch lines are totally straight which can be difficult with a large blind that will have a lot of bulk that you need to pass under the arm of the sewing machine when stitching. 

    However the main reason we dont make them that way in the workshop is because we think the hand stitched blind gives a  superior more professional finish.  
    K
    Hi, am trying to watch your video, but keep getting pop up ads... site fab, but how do I stop these ads so I can watch your videos?
    Sew Helpful
    It is not an ad, it is a payment screen to unlock the videos.
    Bryony
    Hi, in the making rod pockets video, why is the the measurement of the first pleat section 20cm when the remainder of the pleat sections are 40cm?
    Sew Helpful
    With the blind pulled up, there is one flap hanging from the bottom rod (section 5) that then stops inline with the bottom of the pulled up folds. The blind then has to hang down and come back up before it meets the next rod (sections 3 & 4) when pulled up, this is double the length of section 5 to the next rod and so on. See digram .

    Jo
    hi,

    Like Maddy above, I'm also using lining with interlining attached ( seemed like a good idea at the time!) but I realise I will need to do the bottom hem differently. Can you advise please?
    Sew Helpful
    Hi Jo

    In the next STEP of this tutorial you will see the contents of that email to Maddy in the comments section.
    Rose
    Hi, I have joined two widths of lining fabric to make my lining panel. It is 193cm wide. It seemed straight and square before I joined the widths. When I sewed them together they were about a milimetre out at the bottom. I didn't think this would matter much. However when I measured up the hem lines the marks didn't meet. Looking again the bottom doesn't look quite straight. Can I take just a few millimetres or a cm off the bottom and then make the hem a little shorter, to keep the length. Does the hem need to be just big enough to hold the bottom rod? Mine's about 2cm. Most importantly, how would you ensure the bottom is straight? As in the video, by folding the fabric? The whole panel is very big for doing this accurately I think. Thank you in advance for your help. Rose.
    Sew Helpful
    You can trim it straight by a few mm with no problems. The 5cm heading allowance at the top is more than you need so it can come out of that.

    The method for making the bottom straight is in the videos. This works well with standard sized blinds. When making much bigger blinds in the workshop we would use a very big square edged table and very long Tbars to cut square. The videos show you the folding technique which we have found is the best way for getting the bottom straight if you are making at home and haven't got a large workroom table and Tbars.
    Mary Barkworth
    Would I be able to have four rod pockets.I need 130 cms.drop and three seems too little and five too many but I think I read it should be an odd number for rod pockets.
    Sew Helpful
    The number of pleat sections is an odd number, you can have any number of rod pockets. The number you need and their spacing depends on how you want the blind to look when pulled up. There are calcultors on the website to help you decide how many rod pockets to use.  Click on the tutorials link above and it wll take you to the front page of the site with the link to the calcualtors. 

    STEP 2 in the tutorial explains how you manually calculate the number of rod pockets for your blind. 
    Janet fletcher
    I have made a few Roman blinds the material I'm using has a set motif when I square tha material the pattern runs of I know it will not hang square if I follow the pattern is there a way to get round this
    Sew Helpful
    We cut the fabric inline with the pattern and manipulate it by clamping it to the side of the table and pulling it from the corner on the diagonal to bring the pattern up square. I will be writing a blog article about this shortly with photos.
    Corinne
    I am making two blinds to go side by side on the same window. The window is very wide, and I felt that two blinds meeting in the middle would be less likely to sag, and also allow me to open one to open the side part of the window and let air in while keeping the other one lowered. I'm using a patterned fabric - would it be better to pattern match across the two blinds so that it looks like one continuous pattern, or make the two blinds identical, which may mean that the patterns don't match at the join?
    Sew Helpful
    This is a design decision and we have done both.

    Your pattern will be a factor. If you match the pattern across there may be alot of wastage (especially with a wide horizontal pattern repeat)  and you will really need to think about it before making up, you'll need to mark it out and take into account the side turns.


    Matching the pattern across blinds


    Blinds side by side

    Blinds all balanced with a centalsised pattern and the same.


    set of blinds

    Corinne
    Thank you, that's very helpful. I'll let you know how it goes!
    Luisa
    Hi there - couple of questions. 1. When joining widths of lining fabric, do you have a tip for ensuring that the rods go through where the lining has been joined? I have found that it can get stuck on the internal seam? Also, very different question, do you offer any advice on how to price jobs should someone want to make blinds for customers? Many thanks
    Sew Helpful
    After joining and pressing seams, tack them open where the pockets will be, before sewing in the pockets. Then remove tacking after inserting rods.

    Look in our Blog there is an item about pricing. 
    Luisa
    One more question - just making a blind up. When joining widths of lining fabric, do you have to cut the selvedge or can you leave uncut?

    Many thank
    Sew Helpful
    You can leave the selvedge on
    jane morrison
    i paid for the video yesterday for 28 days and it worked yesterday. Today it has stopped working and is saying something about adobe flash player . I can't install this as my son has all the pass words and he is in hong kong
    Sew Helpful
    It sounds like your browser is updating flash. I have sent you an email.
    Helen
    I am using rod tape, and the instructions are to use a single line of stitching along the top of the tape. I am not sure whether to position the top of the tape along the rod pocket line I have marked, or if the actual stitch line should be along the line marked for where the rod pocket should come?
    Sew Helpful
    The stitch line for the tape has to be along the marked rod position line, because the blind will pull up on this stitch line.
    Michelle Woods
    Could you please advise how I can purchase the access to video tutorials? I'm about to pay for a lampshade kit and thought I might be able to do both at the same time but I can't seem to find it on the website... Thanks!
    Sew Helpful
    Lampshade kit tutorials are free to watch. If you were looking to purchase another tutorial that is a different payment system to the shop. You click on the video and a screen pops up which takes you to payment via paypal/card.
    Linda rawlings
    I am watching the rod pocket formation video but the picture has frozen part way through although the sound continues on. What Can I do please?
    Sew Helpful
    Sounds like your internet connection is not fast enough. Try the Low RES videos (link at the side), any further problems please contact us using the contact page.
    Jules
    Hi - apologies if this is answered above. The videos are amazingly helpful - just checking when sewing on rod pocket tape do you open up the side turnings or sew them with the lining's side turnings folded therefore sewing down the turnings? I sewed it before watching the videos and stitched it with the turnings unfolded so it wraps around with the turnings, is that right? When you say cut to the width of the lining plus 2cm for the side hems does that mean the exact same as the width of the lining? Thanks! Jules
    Sew Helpful
    No the tape does not wrap around the side turnings. You will see you have folded the side turns in, in the Step above before reaching this point. The rod tape is cut slightly longer because in STEP 9 after inserting the rods, you fold the ends over and sew them closed to hold the rods in.

    When we say cut the tape to the width of the lining plus 2cm, we mean the width of the lining (as it is at that point with the sides turned) in plus 2cm. I'll adust the instructions to try and make it a bit clearer.
    Jules
    Thanks so much for clarifying! xx
    Catherine
    Sorry which side do I attach rod pocket tape to lining. Right side or wrong side of fabric
    Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    Right side
    Helena
    Blackout lining

    Hi I have made 6 blinds with your awesome tutorials. I need to replace the liner now with blackout (for a babies room). Is the method just the same for making up a blackout lining or are there some key differences?
    Sew Helpful
    We will be making a tutorial, There are numerous replies in the comments sections of the tutorials answering this question.
    Penny
    Sorry if I am being dim...... I am using tape. Have sewn it on along my marked lines allowing 2 cm extra (1 cm for each side.) What happens to this extra 1cm on each side? Do I cut it off or turn it over? I cannot see that you mention it in your writhen instructions again....
    Penny
    Sorry... have seen an answer to my question in your query section
    Julie Batson
    Not sure what I’ve done, hope you can help. I have made up my lining panel as per instructions the the calculations for 3 rod pockets and 7 pleats. But when I’ve attached the lining to fabric panel the rod pockets are not correct. The 1st one is fine, 2nd should be 49.2 but is 40 and 3rd one should be 82cm but is only 72cm. Are you able to tell me where I’ve gone wrong please?
    Sew Helpful
    The error could be in the calculation or not measuring each time from the correct position. Either way you will have to make the lining again.
    Mary
    Do I have to use circular rods ? Or can I use flat wooden slats from my old Venetian style blind ?
    Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    We use circular rods

    Your Question or Comment

    Enter the last letter of the word satellite.
    blank
    Enter answer:
    blank
    blank
    Powered by Commentics