Yes that is normal,standard folds form a very slight cascade due to the way the rods and rings stack on each other when the blind is pulled up. The calculation of the rod pocket positions means that if the rods were all pulled up to exactly the same height, all the folds would be exactly inline. (see image)
However that is not how a blind pulls up, the rods and rings stack on each other on the cord which creates a very slight cascade. If you were really wanting to make the folds line up exactly inline you would have to make make an adjustment to your rod pocket position calculation . It would involve making a mock up to see what the slight cascade depth is caused by the type of rod pockets and ring/breakouts you are using. Then recalculating the rod pocket positions to adjust for this. (this is not something we do)
This is amazing thank you so very much.
I have always been unsure how or should I say where to put my rod pockets but think I have finally got it luckily I came across this information, as I wanted the folds to cascade slightly, if I hadn’t seen this I would have not got that effect,I cannot thank you enough.
Also I am making them for my daughter so she too would have been disappointed but would never have said to me.
Once again thank you.
Ann Parry. Xx????
I want my blinds to be outside the recess and be interlined. Is it best to have fewer folds if they are interlined? I'm just trying to work out how far above the window they will need to be positioned
Interlined blinds are thicker than lined, the more folds you have the
more likely they are to push out when stacked at the top. Up to 3 or 4
rods ( 5 or 7 pleat sections) usually works fine, on long blinds we have
The thickness of your fabric and the thickness of the interlining is a factor. You will see in the videos we use a fine interlining.
Hello I'm confused about the head rail allowance...do you not just measure the depth of the roman blind cassette attachment. I normally deduct 5cm. Is that right?
We add a lttle bit more than the depth of the cassette attachment (x
1.5) to allow for some room for the rings of the blind to pull up
underneath when the blind is fully pulled up.
The tutorial is also for a traditional wooden batten headrail with ring eyelets underneath. The extra room underneath is more important here as the rings only pull up to the eyelet not the bottom of the batten.
am making a recessed roman blind with bobbles on the drop edge. Do i have to make the blind smaller so the bobbles just touch the windowsill.Also so the bobbles show when the blind is fully up do I have to put a dowel rod pocket nearer the bottom of blind.
Make the length of the blind the drop you measured in step 1 minus the
size of the bobbles. Calculate your pocket and folds based on this
shorter length. Then attach your bobbles to the bottom of the blind.
The total blind length including bobbles should now be your measured drop. So the bobbles will just touch the sill when the blind is down. When the blind is pulled up, all the folds will be in line and the bobbles will just hang below at the front.
The bottom of the blind has a bar in it already.
I have made a roman blind where the drop is 208cm in length.
I used the calculator and went with the pleat sections and rod pockets all being 40.6cm with two rod pockets in total. My question is when lowering the blind can it stop and sit at any point of the blind (half way down a fold)or should it sit only on the folds ?
You can lower a blind to where you like. 2 rod pockets for that length
blind doesn't sound enough for a conventional looking blind.