How to make -
Interlined Roman Blind
WORKROOM METHOD
BLIND SAFETY
Blind Safety

This website is viewed globally and at the last time of looking had been used by people from 136 different countries.

The instructions and videos on this website show you the traditional methods of making a roman blind. Many countries have introduced safety regulations with respect to child safety, to reduce the threat of injury or strangulation to young children from the cords of roman blinds.

It is your responsibilty to find out what the regulations are for your country and modify these instructions to make your blind compliant with those regulations

Examples of safety advice and rules used by some countries of the world are:

  • Do not place furniture or beds near windows where children can climb up and access the blind cords.
  • For roman blinds with rod pockets greater than 20cms apart at any point a breakaway device must be used on each cord.
  • The cleat must be 150cms from the floor and accumulate all/most of the cord – only a single cord of no more than 20cms can hang below the cleat.
  • The bottom loop of the chain or cord must be 150cms from the floor and secured with a safety device OR If the operating chain/cord has a breakaway device then the bottom loop of the cord/chain can be 60cms from the floor.
  • Some countries require that all the blind's components have been tested and certified when used together.

BLIND SAFETY
Blind Safety

This website is viewed globally and at the last time of looking had been used by people from 136 different countries.

The instructions and videos on this website show you the traditional methods of making a roman blind. Many countries have introduced safety regulations with respect to child safety, to reduce the threat of injury or strangulation to young children from the cords of roman blinds.

It is your responsibilty to find out what the regulations are for your country and modify these instructions to make your blind compliant with those regulations

Examples of safety advice and rules used by some countries of the world are:

  • Do not place furniture or beds near windows where children can climb up and access the blind cords.
  • For roman blinds with rod pockets greater than 20cms apart at any point a breakaway device must be used on each cord.
  • The cleat must be 150cms from the floor and accumulate all/most of the cord – only a single cord of no more than 20cms can hang below the cleat.
  • The bottom loop of the chain or cord must be 150cms from the floor and secured with a safety device OR If the operating chain/cord has a breakaway device then the bottom loop of the cord/chain can be 60cms from the floor.
  • Some countries require that all the blind's components have been tested and certified when used together.

Materials
  • - Fabric
  • - Lining
  • - Interlining
  • - Thread
  • - Velcro Loop Tape
  • - Buckram (optional)
  • - Rods
  • - Bottom Bar
  • - Rings or Breakouts
  • Tools
  • - Sewing Machine
  • - Tape Measure
  • - Needles
  • - Scissors
  • - Set Square
  • - Straight Edge
  • - Invisible Marker
  • Headrail
  • - Wooden Batten
  • - Velcro Hook Tape
  • - Screw Eyes
  • - Acorn
  • - Cleat Hook
  • - Cord
  • - Staple Gun
  • or
  • - Headrail Kit
  • - Hacksaw
  • Step 6: Make up the Face Fabric Panel

    CHECK & PRESS YOUR FABRIC

    Included in this video
    • Why we mark the bottom right side of the fabric
    PLAIN, STRIPED and PATTERNED FABRIC are treated differently at this stage Select your fabric type.

    PLAIN FABRIC - CUT & MARK THE SIDETURNS

    1. Cut the plain fabric to the FABRIC CUT WIDTH (Finished Blind width + 10cm)
    2. Check the 2 sides are cut straight and parallel
    3. On the right side mark a 5cm side turn down each side in vanishing pen.
    4. Cut the TOP of the fabric straight and at a true right angle (6cm trimming allowance in Fabric QTY for this)
    5. Check the fabric is at least the length of the FABRIC CUT DROP (Finished Blind Length + 16cm). The panel will be trimmed it to the correct length later in the process when making the header.

    STRIPED FABRIC - CUT & MARK THE SIDETURNS

    1. Decide where you want the stripes to be placed on the blind.
    2. Cut the Striped fabric to the FABRIC CUT WIDTH (Finished Blind width + 10cm), making sure the stripes are in the correct position on the panel.
    3. Check the 2 sides are cut straight and parallel
    4. On the right side mark a 5cm side turn down each side in vanishing pen.
    5. Cut the TOP of the fabric straight and at a true right angle (6cm trimming allowance in Fabric QTY for this)
    6. Check the fabric is at least the length of the FABRIC CUT DROP (Finished Blind Length + 16cm). The panel will be trimmed it to the correct length later in the process when making the header.

    PATTERNED FABRIC - CUT & MARK THE SIDETURNS

    1. Work out where you want the pattern to be on the finished blind.
    2. PRO TIP: The position of the pattern is more important at the top of the blind than the bottom.
    3. Cut the fabric panel to the FABRIC CUT WIDTH (finished blind width + 10cm) so the pattern will be in the correct position horizontally on the blind.
    4. Keep the pattern central and in the correct postion by removing fabric from each side.
    5. Check the 2 sides are cut straight and parallel
    6. On the right side mark a 5cm side turn down each side in vanishing pen.
    7. Decide on the pattern where you want the TOP of the blind to be and draw a straight line in this position across the blind at right angles to the sides. Make sure there is at least 7cm of fabric above this line (heading allowance). Check there is at least (blind length +9cm) of fabric below the line.
    8. You have a pattern repeat to achieve the cut in the right place at the top of the panel.
    9. Note You have more than 7cm above "TOP of blind line" this is normal with a patterned fabric, you trim it off later when you form the heading in STEP 8.

    PLAIN, STRIPED and PATTERNED FABRIC are now treated the same.

    TURN IN SIDE TURNS

    • Place the fabric right side down and fold in the side turn allowances of 5cm either side.(pin and press).
    • Check the width is the finished width of the blind all the way up the length of the panel.
    Included in this video
    • How to deal with linens and fabrics with movement

    ATTACH VELCRO TO THE TOP

    • Place the fabric right side up
    • Mark down from the top of the panel 7cm which will be the position of the bottom of the velcro.
    • Draw a line in vanishing pen to mark the bottom of the velcro. Note this line marks the top of the blind - you will have marked this already if you have cut patterned fabric and may have more than 7cm of fabric above the line (you will trim it later when making the header).
    • Cut a length of velcro slightly longer than the width of the blind.
    • Open out the side turns. Machine stitch the velcro onto the fabric in line with the line of vanishing pen and above it. (Stitch the bottom, top and sides of the velcro - do not stitch onto the side turns)
    Included in this video
    • How 2cm velcro differs from 5cm velcro

    CUT FABRIC TO LENGTH & MARK THE HEM

    • Place the fabric wrong side up
    • Fold the side turns in and pin in place.
    • Fold the velcro over at the top and pin in place. This fold is the top of the blind.
    • Trim away any excess velcro from the sides of the blind.
    • Turn the fabric over and press the top fold.
    • Remove the side turn pins
    • Measure down from the top and mark in vanishing pen the finished blind length and the 9cm hem allowance across the width of the blind.
    • Also mark 4cm up from the bottom of the hem allowance to mark the first fold in the hem.
    • You will have 3 marks, one marking the bottom of the blind, one marking the bottom of the hem (where we cut the panel) and one 4cm up from the bottom of the hem.
    • Draw 3 lines across the width joining up the marks.
    • Cut along the bottom line.

    FORM THE HEM

    • Place the fabric right side down
    • Unpin the top and unfold (allows you to unfold side turns later when making mitres)
    • At the bottom, fold up the 9cm double hem (4cm + 5cm) along the line that marks the bottom of the blind and press.
    • Press to form the hem.
    • Fold mitres into the two bottom corners of the fabric panel.

      EXTRA INSTRUCTIONS

    If you are using 2cm velcro rather than 5cm velcro stitch the vecro on as in the instructions above. You will have 5cm of fabric above the velcro. Depending on whether you are using bucram or not any excess fabric will be trimmed off later in STEP 8.

    Your Questions & Comments

    Joanna

    Is there any advantage in using 5cm velcro, when the velcro on the blind mechanism is 2cm?

    SewHelpful:

    You can use 2cm Velcro (no problem and no one will see it). 

    We use 5cm velcro because we are using 5cm buckram so the velcro covers the whole of the header at the back (looks better). It also gives a little bit more stiffness to the header.

    Joanna

    Thank you.

    I have made many, many blinds and find your instructions the best out there!

    Would you consider adding instructions for bigger blinds which involve joined widths and I often use the lining sideways to get the required size so this is also slightly different for getting the edges square etc. I am constantly trying to improve my skills.

    SewHelpful:

    We are currently writing extra information for wide blinds and will be adding it to the website.

    Sue

    I am using a 100% furnishing linen for this tutorial. The manufacturer recommends to allow for 5% shrinkage when making up. Do I need to worry about this if I steam iron first?

    It seems a bit complicated when the lining and interlining will presumably not shrink (polycotton and sarille)......

    SewHelpful:

    A lot of manufacturers say this but the fabric may or may not shrink over time so it's a bit of an unknown quantity. I always steam press my fabric as I check it, before I even cut it. I use pre shrunk interliner or sarille and potentially the face fabric may shrink at a different rate to the lining - there are no guarantees. Fabric is more prone to shrinkage if there is under floor heating, the room has been freshly plastered or in a new build. Options are to make the curtain overlong to disguise any shrinkage or, if going for pencil pleat header, consider having more options for hook position if you need to let the curtain down. I would go for slightly overlong. Good luck!

    Viv

    What a fantastic tutorial. Thank you. Could you advise best way of joining interlining? My middle blind is 156 wide and covering three window panes (part of a bay. So 3 blinds in all) so will need to join the interfacing, maybe slightly overlap or butt up and carefully herringbone in together?

    SewHelpful:

    Good question, we'll add some info to the tutorial.

    First of all, if the drop of the blind is less than 130cm, use it sideways to avoid having to join it.

    Otherwise to join the interlining:

    1. Overlap the interlining with a flat overlap seam of approx 1.5cm.

    2. Then either herringbone stitch together by hand or straight machine stitch them together (that's what we do).

    3. If machine stitching it's really important to keep the interlining seam taut as it goes through the machine(pull both panels tight). Otherwise the feed dogs on the machine send the bottom interlining through at a different rate to the top interlining, this scrunches up the bottom interlining up making it puckered and it comes up significantly shorter than the top piece when you get to the end of the seam.

    Its worth having a quick practice on some offcuts first. Also a walking foot on your machine helps to avoid this problem.

    Steve Rio

    how far apart should the stitches on the interlining be to ensure that the blind will be robust?

    SewHelpful:

    The distance between the crosses on our herringbone stitches are about 3cm.

    Jaye Rogers

    What interlining would you recommend? Concerned that I might buy something too thick that will cause the blind not to fold well. Thanks

    SewHelpful:

    We use a lightweight synthetic or cotton domett interlining. You are right in that you do not want it too thick. Always best to ask advice on suitability from the shop you are buying it from.

    Ged

    By trimming the interlining down will this not be the same as the finished blind width, if so why not say the interlining should be same width as the lining

    SewHelpful:

    You are trimming the interling to fit inside the fabric panel, (which yes is the same width as the finished blind width). The Instructions say "trim to the approximate size of the fabric panel (slightly bigger)"

    At this stage you will have cut lining to the same width of the blind in STEP 5 but folded the sides in 2cm to make a lining panel 4cm narrower than the blind width. If we were to say  "interlining should be same width as the lining" as you suggest ,I think most people would probably cut it 4cm too narrow.

    Wendy

    my blind is 212cm wide. Do I join the interlining either side like the face fabric to achieve the width or can I join in the centre as it wont be visible?

    SewHelpful:

    We would make the joins in the interlining in the same place as the fabric.

    However before that we would look to see if we can use the interlining sideways (railroad) so we don't need any joins at all. 

    Sylvia

    Trying to make a blind 250cm x 155cm. Having great trouble getting it all square. Don't have a large table cannot work on floor. Any suggestions please

    SewHelpful:

    Have you watched the videos? They will give you some tips and information on getting the fabric straight.

    Tania Pearson

    How do I join the interlining? I'm using bump interlining that is 410gsm so it is quite thick. I'm worried that if I join it with the usual seam that it will bulk out the blind too much in that area. Could I cross stitch it together so that there isn't a doubling up of fabric?

    Or would you recommend getting a thinner interliner?

    SewHelpful:

    We wouldn't use bump (too heavy) we would use a sarille interlining in a blind.

    To avoid joins in interlining you can try and use it side ways if the drop of the blind isn't too much (railroading) 

    Karen

    Your site is absolutely brilliant! I've been hand making curtains and blinds for myself and friends for years and have still found so many useful tips and techniques, thank you. I love your 5cm deep metre rule can you recommend a supplier?

    SewHelpful:

    You can buy them from builders merchants, Be careful though as most have a groove under the leading edge which means the fabric slightly moves when you draw a line as the ruler is not holding it in place on the leading edge, but slightly back from it.

    Alison

    Absolutely excellent videos and instructions - thank you! I'm making a silk blind interlined with sarille. Your instructions have both the face fabric as well as the interlining turned at the sides and bottom of the blind. Why is it not a good idea to cut the interlining to butt against side and bottom folds of the face fabric, so that you are only turning over the face fabric rather than face fabric AND the interlining? The herringboning and stab stitching would keep the interlining in place and the edges might be less bulky? Would love to know if this would be a good or a bad idea!

    SewHelpful:

    You can do it that way (its what we do with blackout in the workshop -that tutorial is in the pipeline). On the interlined blind we fold the edges to give them a bit more structure.

    Linda

    Could I please ask what technique you use to ensure the sides of the blind panel are square one you have added side panels to the width? I have carefully followed the techniques fir pattern matching on the seams as demonstrated by the basic technique tutorial and have achieved really good pattern matched seams. Will the odd mm difference that the seating might produce affect the squareness of my finished blind?

    SewHelpful:

    We make the joins, then trim it square.

    The tutorial videos show techniques for getting it square, For really large blinds you need a large square table, long rulers and set squares for the best results.

    Liz

    Your example of step 6 Make up face fabric

    My Roman Fabric pattern blind finished width is 188cm, I want to have measurements like Figure 1. How do I calculate the sides so its equal width to my centre?

    SewHelpful:

    Split the second drop into two halves then join one half to each side. You can then cut the made up  panel down to the required width with the full width central.

    Sheridan

    Hi there, Does the interlined blind need to have mitred corners? Or is this just a design feature?

    Thanks

    SewHelpful:

    We mitre on the corners for a more professional finish and to reduce bulk. You are laying the lining on top with the interlined blind, not folding the lining up within a double  hem as with a lined blind.

    Beth

    Thank you for a really useful tutorial. My problem is measuring and cutting the fabric. There's always some movement, especially if the weave is loose. Even if I start by drawing a line across equal points in the pattern, and measure up in several places from that line, my new line doesn't cross the pattern as before. How do I get the fabric perfectly straight?

    SewHelpful:

    You have to manipulate the fabric if it is moveable which it sounds like you are doing. If that doesn't work we draw a thread.

    Drawing a thread is where we pull a horizontal thread along the  line we want to cut. This pulls the fabric and marks a line straight across on the weft. We will make a Blog with some pictures. Good question.

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