Yes it does matter, we would throw it away and start again in the workroom. Cutting a lining panel with straight parallel sides and a straight square bottom, is crucial for making a well made roman blind. If you don't get this bit right you will find ..........
We never use tape in the workroom, as we believe pockets made from the lining and sewn on brass rings give a far more professional finish. We also think it is easier to neatly sew a rod pocket than sew the tape on.
On the plus side for tape, it does reduce the work later as you can use the tape fabric loops rather than sew rings on to guide the cords and clip safety breakouts on rather than sew them on.
Of course if you have a kit where the safety breakouts are clipped on you will have to use the tape provided.
I love these tutorials, the fog has lifted! The only question I have is that I want to make an interlined blackout blind. To minimise the light ingress would it work if I were to make the rod pockets in the interlining, then just use minimal stab stitches to attach the rings and secure all three layers together. Your advise would be greatly appreciated.
Keep well in all the current madness.
Thank you :D
We wouldn't do that.
To minimise light we would make a blackout blind with combined blackout interlining. Sometimes called bonded blackout interlining.
I have bought a kit that comes with rod tape. Could you please advise me where I stitch the rod tape onto the lining... ie. does the rod itself sit on the marked out measured line or does the machined line of stitches which is above the rod pocket sit directly over the marked out line? I hope you can tell what I mean by that!
Having said that I am tempted to leave sewing the rod tape on at all and then at the very end iron it on with hemming sticky tape. Is that a bad idea??!
Many thanks, Charlotte
I'm afraid we can't advise on different designs of rod tape. Generally it is attached with a single stitch line that is the point the blind fold pulls up on.
We wouldn't say sticking the tape on is a bad idea, we would say it is a TERRIBLE idea. The weight of the blind when pulled up is pulled on the these pocket/tape stitch lines. If you stick it there will not be a stitch single line where the fold pulls up on (it will pull up over the width of the tape) which will probably mean the folds don't form well and I don't think it will stay stuck on very long.
Hi, firstly thank you so much for the in-depth instructions. Thought I should just point out a bit of a boo boo. The first couple of blinds I made, I used the lined instructions which give a 9cm hem on the lining. Clearly says measure up the fold depth plus the 9cm hem allowance which worked a treat. However on the interlined instructions it tells you to measure from the bottom of the lining panel minus 2cm to take into account the 2cm gap allowance between the bottom of the blind and the bottom of the lining. Unfortunately, once you have given the lining a 2cm hem you have to place the hemmed lining 4cm up from the bottom of the blind to achieve your fold depth. The image clearly shows the bottom of the lining panel where you measure from not from the hem line. The instructions essentially need to be altered to not include deducting the 2cm, the two cm gap between the bottom of the finished blind and the bottom of the lining Is achieved when you hem the lining.
You had us scratching our heads as to where you were getting 4cm from and thinking the instructions are wrong. Then we realised that you have probably unfolded the 2cm pressed under at the bottom of the lining panel (similar to the lined method)
The instructions in this tutorial do not tell you to unfold the 2cm side turns or 2cm bottom hem. You leave them pressed under and measure from the bottom of the lining panel that you have made up to that point (with the folds pressed under)
The diagram shows where the bottom of the blind will be in red, the black line 2cm up is where the bottom of the folded under lining panel will be, the light dashed lines are indicating where the lining edge is that is folded behind (note the bottom line does not go all the way across). I think this is where the confusion has come from, I will see if I can annotate the diagram a bit better.
In the videos all this is explained in detail and we show the folded under lining on the back of the panel before measuring, where you measure from and how to measure it out.
I hope that makes it a bit clearer for everybody.
How wide should the rod pockets be please? Are they measured with the rod pocket marking as the centre of the rod pocket?
You would have decided the rod pocket allowance in the previous STEP when calculating the amount of lining required.
The guidance given is " The rod pocket allowance is the circumference of the rod plus 1cm - our rods require a 2.5cm allowance."
The marking out of the rod pockets is as in the diagram.