How to make -
Interlined Roman Blind
Traditional Rod Pockets
BLIND SAFETY
Blind Safety

This website is viewed globally and at the last time of looking had been used by people from 136 different countries.

The instructions and videos on this website show you the traditional methods of making a roman blind. Many countries have introduced safety regulations with respect to child safety, to reduce the threat of injury or strangulation to young children from the cords of roman blinds.

It is your responsibilty to find out what the regulations are for your country and modify these instructions to make your blind compliant with those regulations

Examples of safety advice and rules used by some countries of the world are:

  • Do not place furniture or beds near windows where children can climb up and access the blind cords.
  • For roman blinds with rod pockets greater than 20cms apart at any point a breakaway device must be used on each cord.
  • The cleat must be 150cms from the floor and accumulate all/most of the cord – only a single cord of no more than 20cms can hang below the cleat.
  • The bottom loop of the chain or cord must be 150cms from the floor and secured with a safety device OR If the operating chain/cord has a breakaway device then the bottom loop of the cord/chain can be 60cms from the floor.
  • Some countries require that all the blind's components have been tested and certified when used together.

BLIND SAFETY
Blind Safety

This website is viewed globally and at the last time of looking had been used by people from 136 different countries.

The instructions and videos on this website show you the traditional methods of making a roman blind. Many countries have introduced safety regulations with respect to child safety, to reduce the threat of injury or strangulation to young children from the cords of roman blinds.

It is your responsibilty to find out what the regulations are for your country and modify these instructions to make your blind compliant with those regulations

Examples of safety advice and rules used by some countries of the world are:

  • Do not place furniture or beds near windows where children can climb up and access the blind cords.
  • For roman blinds with rod pockets greater than 20cms apart at any point a breakaway device must be used on each cord.
  • The cleat must be 150cms from the floor and accumulate all/most of the cord – only a single cord of no more than 20cms can hang below the cleat.
  • The bottom loop of the chain or cord must be 150cms from the floor and secured with a safety device OR If the operating chain/cord has a breakaway device then the bottom loop of the cord/chain can be 60cms from the floor.
  • Some countries require that all the blind's components have been tested and certified when used together.

Materials
  • - Fabric
  • - Lining
  • - Interlining
  • - Thread
  • - Velcro Loop Tape
  • - Cord
  • - Rods
  • - Bottom Bar
  • - Rings
  • Tools
  • - Sewing Machine
  • - Tape Measure
  • - Needles
  • - Scissors
  • - Set Square
  • - Straight Edge
  • - Invisible Marker
  • Options
  • - Wooden Batten
  • - Velcro Hook Tape
  • - Screw Eyes
  • - Acorn
  • - Cleat Hook
  • - Cord
  • - Staple Gun
  • or
  • - Headrail Kit
  • - Hacksaw
  • Step 1: Measure the Window

    First decide whether you want the blind to hang inside or outside the recess.

    INSIDE THE RECESS

    Measure FINISHED BLIND LENGTH:

    • Measure the drop from the top of the recess to the window sill in 3 places (each side and the middle). Take the shortest measurement as your finished blind length.

    Measure FINISHED BLIND WIDTH:

    • Measure the width of the window recess in 3 places and use the shortest width as your measurement. This will give you the finished blind width.

    OUTSIDE THE RECESS

    Measure FINISHED BLIND LENGTH:

    • Decide where the batten that will support the blind will be fixed above the window recess. Mark the position of the top of the batten and measure down to the sill. This will give you the finished blind length.

    Measure FINISHED BLIND WIDTH:

    There are 3 options for the finished width of the blind outside the recess.

    • If the window has an architrave surround measure the width of the architrave at its widest point.
    • If there is a window sill measure the width of the window sill.
    • If there is no architrave meaure the width of the opening at its widest point. Add 12cm to give the finished blind a 6cm overlap each side.

    Choose one of these 3 options and measure to get your finished blind width.

    Your Questions & Comments

    Louise

    This is a fantastic tutorial. I just have a small question about the size of the blind when making to fit inside the window recess... Is it advisable to make the finished blind size slightly smaller than the dimensions of the window? It doesn't mention this in the tutorial and Im not sure how much to adjust by. Would 1cm be ok?

    SewHelpful:

    Always measure your recess width in several places and use the narrowest width. You will be surprised how many recesses are not square and the width varies. We use this smallest width for the blind width. If you are worried it is going to be too tight there is no harm reducing your blind width by about 0.5cm. If you reduce the width by too much it will look ill fitting though.

    With an interlined blind you will find the finished width reduces very slightly on what you have measured due to the thickness of the side turns using up a small amount of fabric. 

    Jen

    I would like to hang roman blinds outside a window recess on a sloping wall - is there a way of securing the blind when down so that it hangs parallel to the wall rather than vertical?

    SewHelpful:

    We have made them before running the rings down wires held parallel to the sloping wall. This solution wouldn't be compliant with recent uk child safety regulations so we would now look to fit velux blinds designed to fit in the recess. 

    Jayne

    Hi, how do I factor in for a bead trim at the bottom of a blind please ? Say if my finished blind was 40cm would I make the blind at 39cm so that the trim would "line up" to 40cm or would I still make at 40cm (sorry hard to type how I ask you but hope you understand what I mean !) Thank you. Also, have you any plans to show how to attach beads / trims if you want to incorporate within the seam allowance ?

    SewHelpful:

    We would make the blind so the bead trim hangs below the line of the folds when the blind is pulled up.

    So take your finished blind length including bead trim that you have decided on Eg 80cm. Then subtract the drop of your bead trim eg 2cm. This will give you a blind length of 78cm. We would make the blind to this 78cm drop then add the 2cm bead trim to the bottom.

    That way when the blind is down it will be the 80cm length required. When it is up all the folds will be in line and the bead trim will hang down just below the bottom of the folds.

    Presently we are working on getting all the base tutorials online and do not have attaching bead trim in the plan. (maybe in the future)

    Wendy

    I want to make roman blinds for a large bay window using 3 blinds and cassettes. How do I measure to allow cassettes to sit next to each other but not have window showing? Is there a general rule/technique? Thank you

    SewHelpful:

    We would cut and fit the cassettes first then measure. As a guide we would leave 1 to 2cm between the cassette ends at the corners to give a little room between the blinds so the don't rub when you pull them up. The gap is dependent on the thickness of the fabric if interlined etc, how many folds there are etc.

    Caroline

    Hi, I'm making a roman blind for a recessed window and I've been told to calculate the width of the recess minus 1cm for the finished size. Is this correct or can I just go with the narrowest measurement within the recess ? I'm worried about leaving a gap around the edges. Thank you

    SewHelpful:

    We go with the narrowest measurement when we make as you tend to loose about 0.5cm on the side turns when making the blind.. But it is up to you.

    Wendy

    I am making a blind for a window with an architrave. Its width, to the outer edge of the architrave is 2cm wider at the top than the bottom. Do I make the blind to its widest point?

    SewHelpful:

    For a blind outside the recess we would make it to the widest width of the architrave.

    Tania

    I'm interested why you don't recommend having a 5 cm overlap at the bottom of non-recessed blinds. Why do you recommend that you measure the finished length down to the sill? Thank you.

    SewHelpful:

    The tutorial was based on a window with a protruding sill so the blind will not travel past it without knocking it. A non recessed blind on a window that has a sill that does not stick out, then taking the blind 5cm below the sill line will look fine.

    I will add some extra info to the instructions 

    Alison

    Hi, many thanks for your informative videos and notes. I plan to make three interlined Roman blinds in a row next to each other to cover a wide window (total width 268cm). In order to line up the blinds with the window panes I would have a 72cm wide blind on either side and a 124cm blind in the middle (the middle pane of glass is much wider). Would I make the blinds up the exact size as above or should I subtract a bit to stop them bumping into each other? Or do you think with the interlining they’ll come out a tiny bit smaller anyway? I would like them as close as possible together as it isn’t a pretty window (UPVC) and also don’t want the head rail showing at the top. I think I will use two head rail packs, one with a cord on the left for the left hand blind and one with a cord on the right for the right hand and middle blinds so there’s not a cord hanging down in the middle. Do the headrails butt up right together or do I need to allow extra space? Thanks for your advice.

    SewHelpful:

    We would have a headrail for each blind rather than putting 2 blinds on one headrail. (your choice though).

    Make the blinds to the size, they shouldn't come up large or small. You will need a very small gap between the blinds to make sure they dont catch on each other. We would make the headrails 0.5cm shorter than the blind width to allow for adjustment. Put the headrails up first, you have since said you are outside the recess so you can easliy adjust the headrail positions left or right a bit to get the gaps just right once the blinds are made (assuming you have normal headrails that can move left or right in their clips).

    Alison

    My blind is sitting outside the recess by the way so have a bit of scope for adjustment

    SewHelpful:

    Outside the recess will be easier as the headrails can be adjusted left or right easily so you can get the spacing as close as possible.

    Clare

    I am making two roman blinds for a window - one sheer and one lined. How deep should the window recess be to accommodate both of them and what should the gap be in between the battens?

    SewHelpful:

    That's not something we can give  figures for. It will depend on the depth of the headrail or battens you use, where you can get a fixing, how long the blinds are and how thick the fabric and interlining is etc as that will affect how many folds there are and how deep the blinds are when pulled up.

    Caroline

    Please can you advise me on the longest length recommend when making a Roman blind with interlining. My window is 210cm and I do not want to to be to bulky once pulled.

    SewHelpful:

    We actual only recommend roman blinds for modest sized windows, however there are no rules and you can make them up to 3m wide with headrails available on the market. The bulkiness of your Blind when pulled up will depend on the thickness of your material and interlining as well as the number of folds you choose. A lighter sarille interlining will help reduce the bulk.

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