Is there any advantage in using 5cm velcro, when the velcro on the blind mechanism is 2cm?
You can use 2cm Velcro (no problem and no one will see it).
We use 5cm velcro because we are using 5cm buckram so the velcro covers the whole of the header at the back (looks better). It also gives a little bit more stiffness to the header.
I have made many, many blinds and find your instructions the best out there!
Would you consider adding instructions for bigger blinds which involve joined widths and I often use the lining sideways to get the required size so this is also slightly different for getting the edges square etc. I am constantly trying to improve my skills.
We are currently writing extra information for wide blinds and will be adding it to the website.
I am using a 100% furnishing linen for this tutorial. The manufacturer recommends to allow for 5% shrinkage when making up. Do I need to worry about this if I steam iron first?
It seems a bit complicated when the lining and interlining will presumably not shrink (polycotton and sarille)......
A lot of manufacturers say this but the fabric may or may not shrink over time so it's a bit of an unknown quantity. I always steam press my fabric as I check it, before I even cut it. I use pre shrunk interliner or sarille and potentially the face fabric may shrink at a different rate to the lining - there are no guarantees. Fabric is more prone to shrinkage if there is under floor heating, the room has been freshly plastered or in a new build. Options are to make the curtain overlong to disguise any shrinkage or, if going for pencil pleat header, consider having more options for hook position if you need to let the curtain down. I would go for slightly overlong. Good luck!
What a fantastic tutorial. Thank you. Could you advise best way of joining interlining? My middle blind is 156 wide and covering three window panes (part of a bay. So 3 blinds in all) so will need to join the interfacing, maybe slightly overlap or butt up and carefully herringbone in together?
Good question, we'll add some info to the tutorial.
First of all, if the drop of the blind is less than 130cm, use it sideways to avoid having to join it.
Otherwise to join the interlining:
1. Overlap the interlining with a flat overlap seam of approx 1.5cm.
2. Then either herringbone stitch together by hand or straight machine stitch them together (that's what we do).
3. If machine stitching it's really important to keep the interlining seam taut as it goes through the machine(pull both panels tight). Otherwise the feed dogs on the machine send the bottom interlining through at a different rate to the top interlining, this scrunches up the bottom interlining up making it puckered and it comes up significantly shorter than the top piece when you get to the end of the seam.
Its worth having a quick practice on some offcuts first. Also a walking foot on your machine helps to avoid this problem.
What interlining would you recommend? Concerned that I might buy something too thick that will cause the blind not to fold well. Thanks
We use a lightweight synthetic or cotton domett interlining. You are
right in that you do not want it too thick. Always best to ask advice on
suitability from the shop you are buying it from.
By trimming the interlining down will this not be the same as the finished blind width, if so why not say the interlining should be same width as the lining
You are trimming the interling to fit inside the fabric panel, (which
yes is the same width as the finished blind width). The Instructions say
"trim to the approximate size of the fabric panel (slightly bigger)"
At this stage you will have cut lining to the same width of the blind in STEP 5 but folded the sides in 2cm to make a lining panel 4cm narrower than the blind width. If we were to say "interlining should be same width as the lining" as you suggest ,I think most people would probably cut it 4cm too narrow.
my blind is 212cm wide. Do I join the interlining either side like the face fabric to achieve the width or can I join in the centre as it wont be visible?
We would make the joins in the interlining in the same place as the fabric.
However before that we would look to see if we can use the interlining sideways (railroad) so we don't need any joins at all.
How do I join the interlining? I'm using bump interlining that is 410gsm so it is quite thick. I'm worried that if I join it with the usual seam that it will bulk out the blind too much in that area. Could I cross stitch it together so that there isn't a doubling up of fabric?
Or would you recommend getting a thinner interliner?
We wouldn't use bump (too heavy) we would use a sarille interlining in a blind.
To avoid joins in interlining you can try and use it side ways if the drop of the blind isn't too much (railroading)
Your site is absolutely brilliant! I've been hand making curtains and blinds for myself and friends for years and have still found so many useful tips and techniques, thank you. I love your 5cm deep metre rule can you recommend a supplier?
You can buy them from builders merchants, Be careful though as most have
a groove under the leading edge which means the fabric slightly moves
when you draw a line as the ruler is not holding it in place on the
leading edge, but slightly back from it.
Absolutely excellent videos and instructions - thank you! I'm making a silk blind interlined with sarille. Your instructions have both the face fabric as well as the interlining turned at the sides and bottom of the blind. Why is it not a good idea to cut the interlining to butt against side and bottom folds of the face fabric, so that you are only turning over the face fabric rather than face fabric AND the interlining? The herringboning and stab stitching would keep the interlining in place and the edges might be less bulky? Would love to know if this would be a good or a bad idea!
You can do it that way (its what we do with blackout in the workshop
-that tutorial is in the pipeline). On the interlined blind we fold the
edges to give them a bit more structure.
Could I please ask what technique you use to ensure the sides of the blind panel are square one you have added side panels to the width? I have carefully followed the techniques fir pattern matching on the seams as demonstrated by the basic technique tutorial and have achieved really good pattern matched seams. Will the odd mm difference that the seating might produce affect the squareness of my finished blind?
We make the joins, then trim it square.
The tutorial videos show techniques for getting it square, For really large blinds you need a large square table, long rulers and set squares for the best results.
Your example of step 6 Make up face fabric
My Roman Fabric pattern blind finished width is 188cm, I want to have measurements like Figure 1. How do I calculate the sides so its equal width to my centre?
Split the second drop into two halves then join one half to each side.
You can then cut the made up panel down to the required width with the
full width central.
Hi there, Does the interlined blind need to have mitred corners? Or is this just a design feature?
We mitre on the corners for a more professional finish and to reduce
bulk. You are laying the lining on top with the interlined blind, not
folding the lining up within a double hem as with a lined blind.
Thank you for a really useful tutorial. My problem is measuring and cutting the fabric. There's always some movement, especially if the weave is loose. Even if I start by drawing a line across equal points in the pattern, and measure up in several places from that line, my new line doesn't cross the pattern as before. How do I get the fabric perfectly straight?
You have to manipulate the fabric if it is moveable which it sounds like you are doing. If that doesn't work we draw a thread.
Drawing a thread is where we pull a horizontal thread along the line we want to cut. This pulls the fabric and marks a line straight across on the weft. We will make a Blog with some pictures. Good question.