How to make - (Double Pleat)
Pinch Pleat Lined Curtains
  VIDEO INSTRUCTOR

  Cindy Taylor


Cindy is the owner of Dolman & Taylor specialist curtain and blind makers. She has over 15 years of experience, curtain making, blind making, working with fabrics and making soft furnishings. In the videos she clearly explains and demonstrates the methods and techniques used in her workroom .
How to make a double pleat curtain tutorial by Sew Helpful

Lined Hand Pinch (Double) Pleated Curtains

Learn how to make your curtains the way they are made in a professional workroom.

This tutorial includes

  • Full Written Instructions
  • 17 Videos
  • Diagrams
  • Tips
  • Definitions
  • Example Calculations
  • Tools Required
  • Materials Required
  • Extra Help

We also cover how to deal with a patterned fabric as well as plain fabric when making the curtain. These instructions have been developed by Cindy Taylor an experienced curtain maker. There are tips included and with the benefit of her experience you will avoid common mistakes that can be made and get a professional finish.

Tutorial Steps

Our tutorial is made up of the following steps.

Each step is described in detail with demonstration videos also available.

           

        VIDEO INSTRUCTOR - Cindy Taylor

Owner of Dolman & Taylor specialist curtain and blind makers.

Making a Double pleat lined curtain
Making Double pleat lined curtains
Making a lined curtain

Here is Cindy's must have and nice to have materials and tools lists to make a Double Pleat Lined Curtain. (Click on each item for more information)

MATERIALS

MUST HAVE

  1.   Fabric
  2. - Lining
  3. - Thread
  4. - Buckram
  5. - Weights
  6. - Curtain Pin Hooks

TOOLS

MUST HAVE

  1.   Sewing Machine
  2. - Tape Measure
  3. - Needles
  4. - Pins
  5. - Scissors
  6. - Set Square
  7. - Straight Edge
  8.   Pencil

NICE TO HAVE

  1. - Vanishing Marker
  2. - Clamps

FAQs

******* Page Under Construction *******

Questions & Comments

Penny

Hi. I’m making sill length hand pleated lined curtains. I ordered the fabric according to the manufacturers pattern repeat of 15.5cm which came out as a fabric cut drop of 159cm with an adjusted cut drop of 170.5 (10.25 ACD p/r rounded up to 11). However, when I came to check the pattern repeat it came out as 15.9cm. This means that the adjusted cut drop comes out at 159 cm the same as the fabric cut drop and the ACD p/r comes out dead on 10. I’m wondering if the new ACD pattern repeat will be too tight and leave me nothing to play with later down the line. Particularly as the pattern does appear to me to be just slightly skew whiff on the fabric. Should I go with the new adjusted cut drop or the original one and then cut down later?

Thank you

SewHelpful:  

Hi Penny

It is so important to check actual pattern repeat before cutting so you have done exactly the right thing thus avoiding issues later. You always cut to actual pattern repeat (so what you have measured on the fabric rather than what the manufacturer stated). This means that you will be cutting in exactly the same place on the pattern of each cut drop. 

I understand the situation you have with the pattern being skew whiff so here are the considerations…

- How skew whiff is it? 

Lay your long ruler across the width at a right angle and check to see how much run off there is.

- How many widths are you using? The more widths the great the run off and steps down on your joined fabric panels meaning that you may not have enough left over for the buckram header.

- Do you have enough fabric for an extra pattern repeat on each cut drop? ACD of 174.9cm  instead of 159cm

- If you don’t then you could always trim down the buckram by a cm or 2 if desperate.

I hope that makes sense but do let us know you have any more questions.

Good luck Cindy

Rachel S

Hi - I love your tutorials and have used them several times with great results - thank you.

This time I am making a single curtain to hang from a ceiling track and have a couple of queries.

1. To reduce fullness, I considered double pinch pleats but the track is very close to the wall where the curtain is pulled back. Can the fullness of the pleat be brought (or forced/iron-pressed) forwards rather than the more usual backwards so that the fullness is forward of the track rather than behind?

2. What type of curtain hook would you suggest that will protrude above the top of the curtain to sit in the track hooks? Either with pinch pleats using buckram or pencil pleats with header tape.

Many thanks

SewHelpful:  

1 - Good question. If using a track, I would take the space between the pleats forward and have a “hook to top” measure to cover the track (so almost touching the ceiling) when the curtains are drawn. This will give a more pleasing look when the curtains are closed and solve the problem of the spaces hitting the wall when open. One thing to consider though, ensure your pleats/spaces are proportionate otherwise the space (when pushed forward) will dominate the header.


2 - I am not sure that I fully understand your second question. The type of hook depends on your header. For double pleat you would use a pin hook, for pencil pleat a standard curtain hook.


Good luck with your project and don’t forget to send us a pic!  Cindy : )

Upload
Jeannette

Fantastic videos and tutorials, everything explained & shown in easy to follow steps without it being rushed through like some tutorials are! I have a couple of questions if that's ok? Firstly, would you ever machine the linings to the main fabric or do you always hand sew? Secondly, I would love a cutting table but they are so expensive to buy. Did you have yours specially made, if so can you recommend anyone or do you have any top tips on how to make my own i.e size of table, where to buy right size wood etc etc. Many thanks

SewHelpful:  

Really glad that you’re finding the tutorial useful - the aim has always been to provide all the details that normal instructions miss out. You could machine stitch the lining to face fabric and “bag” it out but this is not how we make in the workroom as we prefer a hand stitched finish wherever possible.

Regarding my cutting table, I had it custom made by my brother in law who works for a joinery. You can buy large pieces of ply or hardboard from various DIY shops - if the surface is rough, simply cover with double width lining.

Keep on sewing and please send us pics as we love to see them.

Cindy

Karen

I am making roman blinds for a conservatory so there is 2 side windows the same size they can be made without joining. But there will be one window then double doors then another window all in a row but they are all different sizes I no they say not to join the fabric in the middle but if I dont there are all going to be different size side panels wont it look better with only one join per blind

SewHelpful:  

We always join with balanced panels added to each side, never down the middle. 

Katharine

Hi Cindy, I am about to embark on 3 roman blinds and a full length door curtain and will purchase your video pass for these. My fabric for the door curtain is a stripe but the stripe is horizontal accross the fabric width (140cm wide). I'm not sure a narrow horizontal stripe would look right on a full length curtain so I would like to turn the farbic to have the stripe lengthways. Would it look wrong to join fabric to achieve the desifred 2m length and if not should the join be towards the top or bottom of the curtain? Many thanks :-)

SewHelpful:  

I understand your predicament but this would have been one of my considerations before purchasing the fabric. I would definitely not join the same fabric at any point horizontally on a curtain. The only exception to this would be if using 2 different fabrics so this might be an option for you and would be my suggestion. Use a plain fabric for the main body of the curtain in a complimentary colour, and then use the stripe vertically as a section along the bottom third of the curtain.

Alternatively, if you do not wish to purchase any more fabric, I would use the fabric horizontally. Horizontal stripes can look really effective so don’t right it off as an option.

Good luck and please send us a pic. Cindy 

Jenny Hall

Hi Cindy -

I've just purchased your Double Pinch Pleat Tutorial and am keen to get started. Your videos make it look so easy, what could possibly go wrong?!

But I am a novice so I need to buy some equipment first, so I wondered if you tell me...

1. What brand and length of needle do you use for hand-sewing the pleats?

2. What brand of vanishing pen do you use for marking out the fabric?

Many thanks.

Jenny

SewHelpful:  

We generally use size 5 and size 7 needles. The 5s are bigger than the 7s. See the picture below.

John James is the brand.

needles


We use Hancocks Vanishing Pencils with Erasers on the end.

Ruth

Hi Cindy, I’m making a pair of floor length linen curtains, unlined, and I want them to pool on the floor, I’m wondering how much extra to allow for pooling, do you think 10cm will be enough to create that effect?

Thank you

SewHelpful:  

Puddling or pooling on the floor is really a personal design choice. I would say that 10 cm is enough but there is no right or wrong here. If in doubt I recommend gathering up a tea towel and holding against the wall so it pools on the floor. Play around with it until you get your chosen level of puddle and then measure how much extra to add on. It’s not the most flashy of ways to do it but is something that I quite often use to help my customers envisage how their finished curtains will look as everyone’s idea of a puddle is different.


Ruth

I want to make double pleat linen curtains (unlined) to pool on the floor, how much extra should I allow for pooling?

Susan Stone

Hello Cindy,

I am making 2 full length double pinch pleat curtains 5m wide and 3 short length curtains1.5 wide all in the same room. Would I use 12.5cm buckram for each of the headings or use 12.5 just for the 2 full length and10cm just for the 3 shorter windows.

Any advice please?

Your tutorials are so well explained, thank you.

SewHelpful:  

These are design decisions, no right or wrong answers.

We would be inclined to make the pleat sizes the same on all the curtains. (probably all 10cm as 12.5cm wouldn't look right on the short curtains).

Siobhan

Hi I’ve paid for the video tutorials but cannot find the links to the videos. Please could you let me know where I can find them

SewHelpful:  

Hi Siobhan

I have replied to both of your emails with your passcode. The videos are in the tutorial, go through the STEPs of the tutorial and you will find them embedded in the instructions. You press play on a video then enter your passcode when the it asks, once you have entered your code all the videos in your tutorial should then play for you. please check your junk/spam folder.  

Siobhan

Thank you

Nicky

Hi, I recently completed these single pleat drapes, which I'm really happy with, but am wondering if you have any advice about what I could have done to avoid the 'kink' at the bottom of each pleat?? They are fixed to cover the track. Thanks :)

SewHelpful:  

Did you pull the fabric down from the pleat as in the videos.

Judith Loveday

In the kit set lampshade covering video - is the stiffening fabric available in a roll? What is it called? I want to re-do my lamps because the stiffener has shattered, and don’t need a kit. Thanks!

SewHelpful:  

You may be able to get it from dannells.com

Mairead

Hi, I want to convert eyelet curtains to double pleat. If I trim off the eyelet part of the curtain, can I continue from there or should I create a small hem at the top? I will be taking the curtains up also as they are full length but I want sill length so have the material to lose if needed. What steps should I be following though?

SewHelpful:  

We would cut the eyelet heading off and remake the heading with buckram as in the tutorials.

Elaine

Hi I’m wanting to use quite a heavy chenille fabric for my curtains. Is this suitable for pinch pleating.

SewHelpful:  

Yes

You won't be able to make small dainty pleats with thicker fabric and especially with interlined curtains and thick fabrics you need to make sure your machine and needle is strong enough to stitch through when sewing the pleats into the heading

Emma

Amazing tutorial, thanks so much for takng the time to create such a thorough and educational video! x

Jb

Bloody hell (quality). Decided today to have a go at making curtains after seeing final cost of made to measure. I'm a bloke (not that it matters) in the middle of painting 2 rooms & my wife is reminding me 'carpets first' (before curtains) & that is true but your video has given me the confidence to have a crack at the curtains when the time comes. Exceptional (you put a lot of DIY videos to shame). Thank you very much.

Sharron Boog-Scott

I want to make a curtain for my front door using velvet wiith double pinch pleats. Someone has suggested that the method for fitting buckram which I have used for my other double pleat curtains (following your tutorials successfully!) will not work for velvet as it is too thick. It has been suggested that I use buckram which is glued on both sides, and eliminate the wrap around the buckram to reduce bulk.

What would you do?

Do you have any other tips for sewing velvet?

I have already purchased the velvet.

SewHelpful:  

We do not iron velvet as you can damage it so would not use fusible buckram with it.

The thickness would not be a problem for our machines so we would make with the normal method. If your machine is not up to it, to reduce bulk  you could tack the buckram in place, fold over 5cm fabric at the top then bring the lining to the top at the back (similar to the interlined method). Once the pleat folds are sewn in place you would then need to remove the tacks.

Add Question/Comment

4000
Drag & drop images (max 3)