If you wanted a more informal look to your double pleated curtains, could you do the heading without the buckram? And in your opinion might this be how these curtains have been done?...
You could certainly make the heading without buckram for a more informal look or potentially use a lightweight buckram.
As for the image, it looks like interlining is giving the pleats a soft look, I couldn't say for sure if they have used buckram or not. Cindy
I have been asked for my passcode and I have lost it. I can't find my email, the address was not sew helpful and I can't remember what it was. Can you resend it to me.
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I am making an unlined linen curtain. What type of Buckram is recommended. And to determine length of Buckram needed is it just the width of the sewn together panels?
I would recommend a buckram designed for sheers (a translucent buckram). This will sit invisibly in the fold and give you the correct firmness for the pleats.
The length of buckram will be flat (unpleated) curtain width plus approx 14cm per curtain for side folds.
You should be able to buy this online easily.
Thank you for your tutorials they are very helpful. I live in Spain and I can’t get hold of any fusible buckram, they only seem to have a translucent type which is very short in width. Could I sew 2 widths together and then sew them into place?
Can you get non fusible buckram? If you can just tack it in place and fold over? If you can’t get either then I guess you have no other option than using the translucent one. Have you tried looking on line for it? If using the translucent then joining them together and folding them into header looks like your only option. Good luck!
Have just completed my first ever pair of pencil pleat curtains & am so impressed with the professional finish, far better than any ready-made curtains I have bought- all thanks to these great videos!
Now want to make some with a double pleat heading using buckram but have a few questions:
Are videos 1-7 for double pleat the same as for the pencil pleat?
Are there any differences in fabric/lining qty req apart from that due to the different fullness ratio?
Is the bottom of the fabric the end nearest the roll or farthest from the roll?
Is the right side of the fabric on the outside or inside of the roll?
The fabric and lining heading allowance is more for the hand pleated
curtain as more fabric and lining is folded over at the top than the
pencil pleat (this will increase the fabric and lining req).
Ref the videos: Yes the (lined curtain) method up to step 7 is the same.
The bottom of the fabric should be obvious if there is a pattern (it will depend how it has been wound onto the roll which way up it is). With a plain fabric you'll have to make a judgement if there is a top or bottom due to sheen grain etc, it is more important to make sure you get all the drops the same way so they match.
The right side of the fabric is the one that will face into the room (the face side).
Hi, is there any particular reason to use fusible rather than non-fusilbe buckram?
Would using the latter make any difference to the making up of this type of curtain?
The method we use for a lined curtain is to stick one side of the
buckram to the curtain and then fold over, this holds the buckram in
place very nicely (see videos for more detail). If you were to use non
fusible buckram you will need to stitch it in place, this is not as
Does buckram come in different weights, if so what should I use for a medium weight curtain and where can I get it?
Yes Buckram does come in different weights. The thicker it is the
stronger and holds the pleat better but it is harder to sew through. For
a lined fabric curtain we would tend to use medium weight.
I'm making up sheers (medium muslin weight?) with double pinch headings...what weight of fusible buckram should I use? Or what do you suggest just to give some structure to the heading?
You need a special Sheer translucent sewin buckram for sheers
I am using quite heavyweight velvety fabric. Is there a different method for this? Once I fold the buckram in, the material becomes extremely thick and hard to pin and sew.
Thanks so much. Your tutorials are brilliant.
You could make it a similar way to the interlined curtain. You would
need to tack the buckram in place though as you have no interlining.
Then after making remove the tacking stitches.
When I slip stitch right across the top of the curtain to enclose the buckram do I slip stitch through the lining and only the fabric fold enclosing the buckram heading OR do I slip stitch through the lining, and the buckram itself and coming up near/through the fabric fold?
Enjoying the videos.......
Just the lining and fabric, if you nick into the buckram that won't matter.
Thank you so much for putting in all the effort to get instructions and videos done for all your tutorials they are great. I'm sure I'm not the only one that has been especially looking forward to this tutorial! :)
Anyway, my question is about buckram. In general, I've found that there are different types of stiffness for buckrams - do you use a light, firm or extra firm buckram on the curtains?
For lined curtains we use single sided fusible cotton buckram (That is
what we use in the videos it only comes in one weight from our
supplier). For a lighter interlined curtain we would use a medium weight
sew in cotton buckram (not fusible) and for heavier interlined curtains
we would use heavy weight sew in cotton buckram (not fusible).