Thank you. One further question please. My fabric is 147cm wide but as far as I can see the useable width is only just over 1 metre! Have I got this right?!
It looks like your fabric should be a half drop pattern repeat, but the selvedge is missing from the right edge (or the fabric wasn't wide enough for the print). Looking at the image we think you are right and you can only join as a standard pattern repeat, (parrot to parrot) and are going to lose a lot of fabric. In our experience over 99% of fabrics are not like this and are printed to join selvedge to selvedge (we've seen it once before on a cheap, very wide fabric)
I'm just starting out and wondering if the finished curtain width with ease and overlap is provided for in the fabric calculator? My pole is 250cm, should i put 250 in the calculator as the pole length OR 250 + 10 + 10 as the length so that ease and overlap are allowed for?
It's not but will be very shortly as we are rewriting the first steps of the tutorial and the calculator will reflect that. At the moment you will need to add 250+10+10.
Hello and thanks so much for these video tutorials!
You say that 2.5 fullness ratio is too much for double pinch pleats. I have measured mine to come out at 2.6 + and that's using 3 widths for the pair because otherwise on a 150cm pole two widths of fabric will be just too skimpy. Can I use the same techniques you showed in your video for cutting down the 3rd width into a half width but cutting as a quarter width instead or is there a better way of doing it?
We are updating the instructions shortly to include information on this.
When my calculations bring me out mid width, I work out my pleats and spaces in advance and make the panel to my required length. This full method is not on the website but we are adding these in soon. So this is what you will need to do.
- Take your pole length and add on 10% for ease 220 cm pole add 10% 22 = 242
- Multiply by chosen fullness ratio 2 x and divide by fabric width 242 x 2 = 484 unpleated width
divide by 137 = 3.5
- This means that you need under 2 widths per curtain but more than 1.5
- The total unpleated width is 484cm. With a pair, divide this by 2 to get the single curtain flat panel width. 484 divide by 2 = 242cm
- Minus half the pole length including ease from this figure 242 - 121 = 121 cm to form pleats
- Thus on each curtain the width to form pleats is 121cm and the finished width of the curtain is 121cm
- Firstly, calculate spaces. I chose my spaces to be near to 12 cm each 121 cm - 14 cm (2 returns of 7cm) = 107cm
107/12 = 8.9, round up to 9 spaces.
- 107/9 = 11.9cm for each space
- Calculate pleats , always one more pleat to space. 121 divided by 10 = 12.1 cm
- Calculate flat width
10 x 12.1 cm pleats = 121cm
9 x 11.9 cm spaces= 107cm
2 x 7 cm returns = 14cm
2 x 5 cm side turns = 10cm
Total flat panel width of 252cm
When doing a return to the wall do the curtains naturally turn back or do you attach a fixing to the wall and add some velcro to the curtain to hold it in place?
We tend to add a block of wood covered in lining with hook velcro on the outside edge to the wall towards the top of the curtain. Then sew loop velcro on the inside of the curtain to attach the return to the wall.
Another method is to use a screw eye or vine eye into the wall or a wooden pole and hook into place.
I am making a interlined and lined curtain using plain linen fabric.
Unfortunately it will go on a track and I was thinking of using buckram and do a double pleat.
Someone said to me that if I use a 2.2 fullness ratio my spaces will look bigger once the curtain is stacked back because it’s a track.
What would you advise?
The width is 362 and the drop is 135.5 to the window sill and it’s a recessed window.
I have purchased a few of your videos before and really enjoyed them.
We cover this in the first step measuring the window (there is a video
to watch). If you want the track covered when you close the curtains,
the spaces will push forward when the curtains are open and stacked
back. If the spaces are too large they will stick forward too much.
We tend to hang our curtains under poles and tracks for this reason. If you decide to reduce the spaces between the pleats you will need more pleats. This means smaller pleats for a given fullness ratio, or you will need extra fabric (increased fullness ratio) for the extra pleats needed to reduce the space sizes.
Im afraid we dont make calculations for people. If you make up a mock header you can vary the pleat and space sizes to see what will look best and work backwards from that.
So if my actual pole is a total of 260cm. Do I then halve it, to 130, and use your guide per curtain i.e approx 7.5 per curtain for ease and overlap.
No, if you look at the example calculation. The figure given is the ease and overlap per curtain for a pole length.
So each curtain would be 130cm + 10.5cm
Don't worry if you have done it the other way it will still work it is just a guide.
I am making a small floor length pair of velvet, blackout, double pinch pleat curtains. Is 2:03 fullness ratio enough for a nice pleat depth? This saves me going into an extra width but worried it might not look full enough?
We would make them fuller and go into the next width, they would come up
too skimpy for us and velvet being thick is difficult to make small