• - Fabric
  • - Lining
  • - Thread
  • - Heading Tape
  • - Weights
  • - Curtain Hooks
  • Tools
  • - Sewing Machine
  • - Needles
  • - Pins
  • - Clamps
  • - Scissors
  • - Set Square
  • - Straight Edge
  • - Invisible Marker
  • - Tape Measure
  • Watch the videos for full step by step tution of the instructions and expert tips from the workshop

    Video User Comments

    I love your videos they have given me the confidence to make my own curtains and blinds....Julie

    Your videos are so good, thank you…..Alex

    Once again, I should say that I think the video tutorials are extremely well done. Although I've been sewing for years I've learnt lots of techniques that are new to me and that give a much more professional finish........Heather

    Thank you for such brilliant tutorials and videos....... ....Barbara

    I have absolutely loved your videos for curtain making, I have learnt so much from you….Charlotte

    Step 5: Make up the Lining Panels
    Printable Worksheet
    Printable Worksheet


    The number of widths of lining needed is the same as the number of widths of fabric.

    • Cut each width of lining the length of the LINING CUT DROP calculated in step 4.
    • If you are working with an odd number of widths each curtain will contain a half width. Cut down one of the widths to split it into 2 equal halves.
    This video shows you
    • How to measure and mark your cut drops.
    • How to cut your cut drops.
    • How to split a width in half.
    • How to make sure you use the correct sides the right way up later.

    If more than one width is required per curtain, join the the lining panels with a plain seam.


    • Lay lining panels to be joined right side together (make sure the panels are the same way up) align bottoms and edges.
    • If you are working with an odd number of widths each curtain will contain a half width. The half widths should be on the outer edges of the curtain. Join the selvedge to selvedge.
    • Join the appropriate lining widths with a plain seam.
    • Press the seams open
    • Check the bottom of the joined panels are straight, if not trim.

    Eg: A pair of curtains requiring 3 widths, each curtain fabric panel is 1.5 widths (half widths on outer edges).

    This video will show you
    • How to make sure you are joining correct sides and the right way up.
    • How to sew a plain seam.
    • How to press a plain seam.

    Extra Help & Comments

    Sew Helpful
    Post your questions and comments here, we will reply so everyone can see the answer. 
    Please can you advise what seam allowance to use when joining the lining (and fabric) lengths.
    Sew Helpful
    When joining lining panels we use a 2cm seam allowance (each side). Also when joining fabric panels we use a 2cm seam allowance (each side).
    The width of my curtain fabric is 160cm whilst the width of the lining fabric I am thinking of buying is 140cm. Do they need to be the same width? My pole length is about 125cm. Thank you.
    Sew Helpful
    You will see in Step 7 the lining panel will be 10cm narrower than the fabric panel when you trim them before joining. In your case I would trim the fabric down to 150cm width (assuming you are going for 1 width per curtain), rather than buy extra lining and join it.
    claire johnson
    Hi my curtain fabric is 150cm selvage to selvage and my lining is 145 selvage to selvage. The pole length is 203cm. How shall I work around the different fabric widths. Should I allow for 4 widths lining fabric and cut down the main curtain fabric
    Sew Helpful
    Make up your fabric panels and lining panels out of the widths as they are, joining where necessary.
    (note the lining panel will be narrower than your fabric panel due different width sizes)

    Now If you look ahead to step 7 when you come to join the fabric and lining panels together. At item 6 It says trim the lining panel so it sits 5cm in from each side of the fabric (note sometimes you may need to trim the fabric.)

    In your case I think the panels will be just about the right size and require very little trimming as the lining is narrower than the fabric. 
    Grace Gadd
    I want to make interlined curtains and have come across bonded interlining. Does this give as good a finish as separate interlining and lining fabric. Many thanks.
    Sew Helpful
    No it doesn\'t give as good a finish. Using separate interlining and lining, the interlining forms one with the fabric giving the fabric a thicker feel. The bonded interlining hangs away from the fabric as it also acts as the lining. 

    The most professional finish is obtained making the curtain the traditional way with separate lining and interlining. 
    If the lining has slipped after joining the seams and I need to trim at the bottom to get it straight again, how does this affect the overall curtain length? Shall I make a smaller hem?

    Sew Helpful
    If you have lost a small amount of length from joining and trimming you can make the first turn of the double hem smaller to make up for this.
    I've read that black out liner should be made separately with it's own header tape and then attached to the curtain heading tape by means of hooks..would you advise this..? thanks
    Sew Helpful
    That's not something we have ever done. We would make the curtain with the blackout lining in place of the cotton lining. We do make the blackout curtains slightly differently to these instructions taking the blackout lining to the edge of the curtain by cutting it to the width of the curtain and folding the fabric over at the side  edges with a double hem enclosing the blackout lining This ensures the curtain is blackout right to the edge.

    Thanks for the quick response. I love your videos as they have given me the confidence to make my own curtains and blinds. It would be great if you did one on cushions so I can use up my left over fabric. Thanks again Julie
    Hello, I too am using blackout lining. Would you hem this as with ordinary lining, or just cut it (as it does not fray) and have not hem on it? Many thanks.
    Sew Helpful
    You hem it.
    I am making curtains with blackout lining for the first time. You advise cutting the lining to the edge of the curtain and enclosing with the curtain fabric. Would you do this with the hem also I.e. enclose the lining in the hem of the fabric. Thanks Julie
    Sew Helpful
    No, you make up and hem the fabric and lining panels separately as usual. You just form a mitre with the fabric side turn at the bottom.
    I'm struggling figure out what this looks like. I'm making blackout curtains for the first time. I don't think I understand how the bottom corners work.
    Sew Helpful
    How to follow the instructions is fully demonstrated in the videos.
    How wide would you make the double side hem when enclosing black out lining? Also would you still mitre the corner. The double hem makes it very bulky.
    Sew Helpful
    We would make the hem double 2cm on the sides and mock mitre the corners. Note you do not fold the blackout lining into the side hem.

    Send us your email and I will send you some photos of it being done to a blind which is a very similar principle. 
    Hi there, is there a tutorial on making interlined pencil pleat curtains coming any time soon? I'd love to use your guide as I've never made curtains before...
    Sew Helpful
    We are looking are adding much more content in the new year. Interlined curtains are on the list.
    My fabric and lining have different widths.
    My curtain fabric is working out to 6 widths exactly. My measurements are 288cm by 102cm for the curtain size.
    So I am doing to 2.5 fullness so the amount of fabric is 6 widths (120width fabric) and the lining is 140width and coming up at 5.14 widths. So should I round up to 6 widths as it mentions about the amount should be the same curtain and lining or should I do 6 fabric widths and 5 lining widths? I am using black out lining if this makes a difference which I have never used before.
    Thank you!
    Sew Helpful
    If you use 5 widths you will not have enough lining as you need a minimum of 5.14. Therefore you will need to use 5.5 widths of lining to the 6 widths of fabric. As the drop is only 102cm though you could use the lining sideways to avoid any joins. As it it blackout just check it hangs ok in that direction.
    Hello, I want to interline my curtains, as well as put a blackout lining on them. Can I follow the instructions you have on the interlined roman blind to help me with the interlining on my curtains?
    Sew Helpful
    Not really. 
    Hi, I am using bonded dual purpose (also blackout) lining. It is not very thick or too rubbery. Do I hem it seperately from the main fabric? Thanks so much.
    Sew Helpful
    The lining and fabric are hemmed separately for normal cotton lining so not sure what you are asking to do differently. You can construct the curtain the same way we do with cotton lining in this tutorial with your bonded lining and it will work. With blackout we make them differently so the blackout goes to the edge of the curtain but that is a whole new tutorial and different method (we will make that tutorial but it will be a while). You'll only have a couple of cms on each edge of the curtain that isn't blackout if you use this tutorial.
    Thanks so much. As the lining and blackout fabric are bonded, I guess I should hem them seperately BUT I wanted to sew the lining in to the side seams. Can I do this?
    Sew Helpful
    Yes that should be ok
    Thank you so much for your help. Here goes!
    Hello I am making curtains for the first time. My pole length is 127cm. My fabric is 150cm.
    If I need twice the pole width, am I right in thinking that I cut 127cm of fabric for each curtain?
    Do I need to add more for seam allowance? 2cm at each side therefore 131cm?
    There is a selvege at each side, do I cut those both off or just one when cutting to size?
    Sorry to sound stupid, but I really don't want to get this wrong!
    Sew Helpful
    Hi Sarah

    We make pencil pleat curtains to the nearest half width eg 1 width, 1.5 widths, 2 widths per curtain. The calculation is in STEP 3.

    in your case multiply the pole length by the fullness ratio of 2.0 gives 2.54 
    divide 2.54 by the fabric width of 1.5m =1.69widths
    round up to the nearest whole width gives you 2 widths to make the pair of curtains.
    That is 1 whole width per curtain.

    The seam allowance and selvedge  is all accounted for in the width of fabric to make the curtain, so don't cut the fabric width down, just use the full 150cm width to make the curtain. The video in STEP 7 shows you how to adjust the width of the fabric if required when joining the lining to it. You may well need to do this as your fabric is slightly wider than standard and is most probably wider than your lining. 
    Thank you, that is so incredibly helpful, my brain was being tied in knots knowing I had missed something, I understand now.
    The selvages on my fabric are 2cms.Matching the pattern selvage side to selvage side means I have surplus fabric on both drops so the seam allowance is 3 cms. Should I trim these? It seems a pity to create raw edges but the allowance does look a bit wide.Should I just slash the selvages instead?

    Thank you so much for your speedy and knowledgable replies to my queries.
    Sew Helpful
    You can trim it, we would probably just leave it.
    Many thanks.I will trim to 1.5cms if you think that's enough. I think the seam will be less bulky and press flatter.

    im getting confused about which seams to join... the video seems to show that the fabric should be joined where it was cut but this seems a bit counter-intuitive cutting and then rejoining so i wanted to double check whether thats the case or if it should be joined along the natural edges perpendicular to the cut edgs?

    many thanks
    Sew Helpful
    You join selvedge to selvedge (natural edge to natural edge) that is what is being done in the video. The lining has a very straight crisp selvedge in the video.
    Hi, I'm using you instructions for the first time and have decided to include interlining for extra warmth. For a bit of background info, these are for a 35mm 270cm pole and the e main fabric is going to be heavy (

    With regards to selecting interlining for fabric, do you have any rough guidelines of bump, dommet or sarill interlining is best to use?
    Sew Helpful
    We use various interlinings in the workshop depending on how thick and heavy we want the curtains to be. The main 4 we use are.

    Pre Shrunk Heavy Cotton Bump 400gsqm. -Good for thick curtains/Door Curtain.
    Pre Shrunk Cotton Domett 270gsm

    Synthetic Dometts
    180gsqm - Roman Blinds
    For a beginner the synthetic dometts are easier to work with as they have less movement. The method in this tutorial is not the way we make interlined curtains.
    sorry I am unable to understand the first line on this it cut each of the width of the lining and length of the lining cut drop. Can you please explain
    Many Thanks
    Sew Helpful
    You will need a number of widths of lining and the same number of widths of fabric to make your curtain. You will have calculated the number of widths in STEP 3.

    Each one of the these widths has to be cut to a certain length. For lining you cut each width to the length of the LINING CUT DROP calculated in STEP 4.

    I am confused by your lining cut drop length.
    In step 4 you say it is (for a full length curtain)
    = finished curtain length + hem allowance (16cm) + heading allowance (5cm)+5cm trimming allowance.

    However in your video in step 5 you say the heading allowance is 17.5cm (buckram + 5cm), so you have added the height of the buckram (12.5cm) which is quite a different length.

    Could you please explain why there is this difference.
    Sew Helpful
    Thanks Alan

    The tutorial is playing the wrong video (hand pleated heading one). I will correct it ASAP. The written instructions are correct.
    I am confused by your lining cut drop length.
    In step 4 you say it is (for a full length curtain)
    = finished curtain length + hem allowance (16cm) + heading allowance (5cm)+5cm trimming allowance.

    However in your video in step 5 you say the heading allowance is 17.5cm (buckram + 5cm), so you have added the height of the buckram (12.5cm) which is quite a different length.

    Could you please explain why there is this difference.
    Sew Helpful
    Thanks Alan

    The tutorial was playing the wrong video (hand pleated heading one). The written instructions are correct.

    All corrected now the video is the same as the written instructions

    = finished curtain length + hem allowance (16cm) + heading allowance (5cm)+5cm trimming allowance.
    I am trying to decide whether to do pencil pleat or eyelet curtains. I have done a practise of the pencil pleat curtains using your wonderful tutorials but am not sure how to prepare the top of the curtain and how to attach the eyelet tape. Do I do exactly the same as for the pencil pleat curtains, subsitituing eyelet tape for pencil pleat tape ? The curtains will be lined with blackout lining.
    I am making curtains with blackout lining, do I understand that the width of the lining is the width of the curtain, then you fold the fabric over it an do a double side seam down the edge?
    Also does the 2cms seam allowance include the selvidge?
    Thank you for your help
    Sew Helpful
    All in Step 7 and demonstrated in the videos.

    We do turn the lining selvedge under on the 2cm lining sideturn.

    Sew Helpful
    With the linings we use are there is no matt or satin side, It sounds like the satin side should be facing outwards (but we cant be sure)
    iris wells
    I am going to make a curtain 6 with x 90 drop an going to use blackout lineing with pencil pleat heading please could you give me details how to make these curtains using blackout lineing from start to finish thank you Iris my email is ****
    Sew Helpful
    I'm sorry Iris, all our information is published here online on the website, we dont write bespoke tutorials and email them to people.

    Why do we have to cut and make up the lining panels before the fabric? Or does it not really matter if I make the fabric panels first?
    Sew Helpful
    You do not have to cut the lining panels first you can do them after if you like.

    It's just handier to have them ready when you are working on the fabric panels and get to the point of joining. Rather than take all the fabric off the table and start making up the lining. You can just continue with the fabric in place already and join.
    Do you have any tips for getting the bottom edge of the joined panels straight without the benefit of a large flat surface? No matter how neatly I sew the selvedges together I always seem to get a slight mismatch at the bottom! I am working with two and a half widths for each curtain and finding it very difficult to be certain that the hem is straight all the way across. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you.
    Sew Helpful
    That is covered in the videos
    Nicola Rose
    Word of warning! If your lining material is a different width to your fabric you may need an extra length - I learnt the hard way!

    Your Question or Comment

    Adding comments has been disabled.

    Your Questions & Comments

    No comments yet. Be the first!

    Post Here