Blind Making
Step 8: Form Heading & Cut Headrail
Printable Worksheet
If you are using 2cm deep velcro and/or don't have buckram please read the EXTRA INSTRUCTIONS at the bottom of the page before proceeding.
INSERT THE BUCKRAM
- Cut a length of buckram 5cm deep and 14cm longer than the width of the blind.
- Lay the blind fabric side down, lining up.
- At the top, cut the lining and fabric so they extend 2cm above the top of the velcro (5cm if you are using 2cm velcro and 5cm buckram).
- Lay the buckram on the lining, along the bottom of the velcro.
- Leave 7cm of buckram protruding each side of the blind.
- Fold in the protruding buckram at each side of the blind.(trim ends square and fold in 3mm from fabric side)
- Fold the fabric and lining over the top of the buckram to encase it
- Tuck the excess lining and fabric under the buckram and pin.
PRO TIP: Don't use your best fabric scissors for cutting the buckram.
Included in this video
- What buckram we like to use.
STITCH THE HEADING
- Ladder stitch the end closed.
- Slip stitch the bottom of the heading to the lining.
- Ladder stitch the other end closed.
Included in this video
- Hiding the thread end starting the ladder stitch
- What thread to use.
CUT THE HEADRAIL TO SIZE
- Cut the headrail 0.5cm narrower than the width of the blind.
Included in this video
- How to avoid bending the metal axle when cutting.
- The best tool for cutting the headrail.
EXTRA INSTRUCTIONS
NO BUCKRAM
If you do not have any buckram to insert into the header:
- Lay the blind fabric side down, lining up.
- At the top, cut the lining and fabric so they extend 2cm above the top of the velcro .
- Fold the fabric and lining over the top along the bottom line of the velcro.
- Tuck the excess lining and fabric under the velcro and pin in place along the width of the heading.
Then ladder stitch the ends and slip stitch the bottom as in the instructions above.
If you have used 2cm velcro rather than 5cm velcro you will have 5cm of fabric above the velcro.
USING 2CM VELCRO WITH 5CM BUCKRAM
Follow the tutorial instructions. You will have 2cm of velcro and 3cm of fabric on the header on the back of the blind when the header is formed.
USING 2CM VELCRO NO BUCKRAM
- Lay the blind fabric side down, lining up.
- At the top, cut the lining and fabric so they extend 2cm above the top of the velcro .
- Fold the fabric and lining over the top along the bottom line of the velcro.
- Tuck the excess lining and fabric under the velcro and pin in place along the width of the heading.
Then ladder stitch the ends and slip stitch the bottom as in the instructions above.
Included in this video
- What the header of the blind will look like using 2cm Velcro-With Buckram.
- What the header of the blind will look like using 2cm Velcro-No Buckram.
TRADITIONAL WOODEN BATTEN - PULL CORD
- Cut the wooden batten 1cm to 0.5cm shorter than the finished width of the blind.
- Cover the batten with lining or fabric depending on whether the batten will be seen when the blind is mounted and fix with staples.
- Attach the adhesive hook tape (velcro) to the front of the batten along it's whole length. Also staple the tape on for extra strength.
- Screw the brass eyelets into the base of the batten.
- One at the end you wish to pull the blind cord from.
- One 10cm from each end of the batten, then evenly across the batten at no more than 35cm intervals.
Included in this video
- How to cover a wooden batten.
Questions & Comments
Dear Cindy, I have made 2 blackout roman blinds according to your instructions (thank you!) and used 2cm velcro without buckram. When I attach them to the headrail the top doesn't hold amazingly well and the face fabric comes away from the velcro. Would you recommend adding in buckram for a better finish and hold? I bought the video passcode as thought I had missed a step.
Also, quick question re: pinning and slip stitching through lining and blackout - I assume pinrpricks of light don't show through as long as you don't catch the face fabric?
Many thanks for your great videos!
Best wishes,
Joanne
It shouldn't do that, can you send a photo of the front and back of the header.
You have to catch the face fabric when stab stitching otherwise the face fabric layer will not pull up with the rest of the blind. As for pinpricks of light, you will get some with the stab stitches, as there will be some light leakage around the edges of the blind..
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for getting back - I will try adding buckram to see if it helps, I've watched the video again and it's clear, might just be my stitching not great!
Following your tip about buckram, I ordered non-fusible one from Merrick & Day, which arrived a few weeks ago. I am now at the step where I need to use it, but once I've unfolded the roll, I've realised that I've been sent single-sided fusible buckram instead. Can I get away with using it? Or is it crucial to use non-fusible type and I need to re-order it?
No problem with using the fusible buckram - just don’t fuse it in place with an iron!
Good luck
Cindy
Phew! :-) Thank you.
I have newly set up as a curtain and blind maker and i've been buying my headrails made to measure from a supplier. Is this an unnecessary expense do you think? If so, how do you buy yours? Many thanks
You can buy all the component parts and make up which is cheaper, We buy in made to measure for each job though, mainly for convenience.