How to make -
Blackout Roman Blind
WORKROOM METHOD
BLIND SAFETY
Blind Safety

This website is viewed globally and at the last time of looking had been used by people from 136 different countries.

The instructions and videos on this website show you the traditional methods of making a roman blind. Many countries have introduced safety regulations with respect to child safety, to reduce the threat of injury or strangulation to young children from the cords of roman blinds.

It is your responsibilty to find out what the regulations are for your country and modify these instructions to make your blind compliant with those regulations

Examples of safety advice and rules used by some countries of the world are:

  • Do not place furniture or beds near windows where children can climb up and access the blind cords.
  • For roman blinds with rod pockets greater than 20cms apart at any point a breakaway device must be used on each cord.
  • The cleat must be 150cms from the floor and accumulate all/most of the cord – only a single cord of no more than 20cms can hang below the cleat.
  • The bottom loop of the chain or cord must be 150cms from the floor and secured with a safety device OR If the operating chain/cord has a breakaway device then the bottom loop of the cord/chain can be 60cms from the floor.
  • Some countries require that all the blind's components have been tested and certified when used together.

BLIND SAFETY
Blind Safety

This website is viewed globally and at the last time of looking had been used by people from 136 different countries.

The instructions and videos on this website show you the traditional methods of making a roman blind. Many countries have introduced safety regulations with respect to child safety, to reduce the threat of injury or strangulation to young children from the cords of roman blinds.

It is your responsibilty to find out what the regulations are for your country and modify these instructions to make your blind compliant with those regulations

Examples of safety advice and rules used by some countries of the world are:

  • Do not place furniture or beds near windows where children can climb up and access the blind cords.
  • For roman blinds with rod pockets greater than 20cms apart at any point a breakaway device must be used on each cord.
  • The cleat must be 150cms from the floor and accumulate all/most of the cord – only a single cord of no more than 20cms can hang below the cleat.
  • The bottom loop of the chain or cord must be 150cms from the floor and secured with a safety device OR If the operating chain/cord has a breakaway device then the bottom loop of the cord/chain can be 60cms from the floor.
  • Some countries require that all the blind's components have been tested and certified when used together.

Materials
  • - Fabric
  • - Lining
  • - Blackout Lining or
  •   Blackout Interlining
  • - Thread
  • - Velcro Loop Tape
  • - Buckram (optional)
  • - Rods
  • - Bottom Bar
  • - Rings or Breakouts
  • Tools
  • - Sewing Machine
  • - Tape Measure
  • - Needles
  • - Scissors
  • - Set Square
  • - Straight Edge
  • - Invisible Marker
  • Headrail
  • - Wooden Batten
  • - Velcro Hook Tape
  • - Screw Eyes
  • - Acorn
  • - Cleat Hook
  • - Cord
  • - Staple Gun
  • or
  • - Headrail Kit
  • - Hacksaw
  • Step 6b: Insert the Blackout
    Printable Worksheet
    Printable Worksheet

    CUT THE BLACKOUT LINING

    1. Cut the BLACKOUT to the BLACKOUT CUT WIDTH (finished width of blind - 2mm)
    2. Check the 2 sides are cut straight and parallel
    3. Cut the bottom of the BLACKOUT exactly square (6cm trimming allowance in Blackout QTY for this)
    4. If using standard Blackout, check it is at least as long as (Blind length + 5cm). (it will be trimmed it to the correct length later in the process when making the header)
    5. If using Combined Blackout/Interliner, cut it to (Blind length - 2mm).

    Included in this video
    • How to cut the bottom square with no T-bar.

    INSERT THE BLACKOUT LINING

    If you are using combined blackout/interliner please also read the extra instructions at the bottom of the page for this stage.

    INSERTING STANDARD BLACKOUT LINING

    1. Lay the fabric panel right side down.
    2. Open up the side turns and hem
    3. Fold the 4cm hem fold up.
    4. Lay the blackout panel on the fabric panel (blackout rubbery side down)
    5. Align the bottom of blackout panel in line with the bottom of the fabric panel and in line with the creases of the side turns.
    6. Trim off the corners of the blackout where it lays over the diagonal fabric corner folds.
    7. Lift the 4cm hem fold flap so the blackout lining now falls into the 4cm fold .
    8. Lift the diagonal corner folds of fabric and encase the blackout.
    9. Now fold up the second 5cm hem fold and pin.(the blackout is now encased in the hem)
    10. Fold the side turns in and check that the blackout is not pushed in or puckered. If it is then readjust the position of the blackout or if it is too wide it may need trimming down. (check the width with side turns folded in)

    Included in this video
    • How to ensure the blackout doesn't pucker

    HERRINGBONE STITCH THE BOTTOM & TOP

    1. Herringbone stitch the hem to the blackout.
    2. Smooth the layers of the blind out.
    3. Make sure the heading is opened out and laying flat.
    4. Trim the top of the blackout so it sits 2mm below the bottom of the velcro.
    5. You should not need to do this if you have used COMBINED BLACKOUT/INTERLINER because that was cut to the (blind length -2mm) before insertion.
    6. With the heading still folded out flat, herringbone stitch the top of the blackout to the fabric on the underside of the velcro.

    PRO TIPS:
    1. Beware DO NOT stitch through to the face fabric with all herringbone stitching
    2. Take care not to stitch too deep into the hem as you will not be able to insert the bottom bar later.

    HERRINGBONE STITCH THE SIDE TURNS

    1. Fold in the side turns and pin in place.
    2. Herringbone stitch the side turns to the blackout.
    3. Remove pins.
    Included in this video
    • How to Herringbone stitch the side turns ensuring the layers stay flat

    INSERT BOTTOM BAR & CLOSE THE MITRES

    1. Cut the bottom bar just over 1cm shorter than the width of the blind.
    2. Insert the bottom bar into the hem pouch through the open mitres.
    3. Ladder stitch closed the mitred corners.
    Included in this video
    • How to acheive a professional finish closing a mitre

      EXTRA INSTRUCTIONS


    INSERTING COMBINED BLACKOUT/INTERLINER - DIFFERENCES

    There are a three differences at this stage when using combined blackout/interliner rather than standard blackout.

    1. Combined blackout/interliner is not folded into the hem as it would be too bulky
    2. Combined blackout/interliner is herringbone stitched in at the very bottom to hold it in place.
    3. Combined blackout/interliner has already been cut to the blind length so the top will not need trimming down.

    INSERTING COMBINED BLACKOUT/INTERLINER

    1. Lay the fabric panel right side down.
    2. Open up the side turns and hem
    3. Lay the blackout panel on the fabric panel (fleece side down)
    4. Align the bottom of blackout panel with the fold line in the fabric panel that marks the bottom of the blind and in line with the creases of the side turns.
    5. Herringbone stitch the bottom of the combined blackout/interliner to the fabric panel across the width.
    6. Fold up the double hem and pin.
    7. Fold the side turns in and check that the blackout is not pushed in or puckered. If it is then readjust the position of the blackout or if it is too wide it may need trimming down. (check the width with side turns folded in)
    8. Now rejoin instructions at HERRINGBONE STITCH THE BOTTOM & TOP.

    Included in this video
    • How to stitch the combined blackout/interliner to the bottom of the blind

    Your Questions & Comments

    Jane Morgan

    Thank you for your great tutorial, this is the third Roman blind I am making. I noted that from one of your photos you made a blind using Peony & Sage fabric, Falling Feathers in the Duck Egg colour way. I am slightly colour blind and am having a problem finding a matching Duck Egg thread, would you be able to advise what one you used please as I am beginning to pull my hair out!

    Many thanks

    SewHelpful:

    I'm afraid we don't know which one we used and haven't got any of that fabric in the workroom. You'll need to take a sample of the fabric into a haberdashery shop with a range of threads and I'm sure a staff member will be able to help you colour match.

    Ida

    if you are stitching through the combined blackout/interliner in all these places - my past experience with this fabric is there are many pinholes of light showing through at every stitch. In my innocence in making a previous blind with interlining I lockstitched it as for curtains. If I did this locking just the fluffy layer would it hold it still?

    SewHelpful:

    No the front face fabric will sag and not pull up evenly. You have to stab stitch through all the layers.  

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