Thank you for the tutorial, it is great. I am using combined blackout lining (which I now regret!) and have sewn the rod pocket tapes on. I have put the combined blackout lining on the fabric and l am now about to turn in the side hem of the blind. However I am concerned I will then not have access to the sides of the rod pockets as the side of the blind will be covering them? Do I put the rods into the combined lining BEFORE turning in the sides of the blind? Thank you.
Are you following the videos? There was one in the "USING ROD POCKET TAPE" dropdown at the bottom of STEP 5 when you attach it to the lining. The rod pocket tape should not be attached to the combined blackout lining (that is sandwiched inside the blind using this method).
Thank you for very informative tutorial. When using the combined blackout/ interliner and you 'Herringbone stitch the hem to the blackout' will pin holes of light show through or as it hangs below the windowsill that becomes ok. Bit confused as I am trying to avoid pining and pin holes.
You have to herringbone the lining in place - there is no other way although you are very welcome to try.
Later in the make up process you will have to stab stitch through all the layers to join them together, otherwise the blind will not pull up properly. This will create tiny spots of light if the blind is down in daylight.
There is no other way to make the blind that will make it usable and made to a high standard. Your only option is to buy a blackout roller.
I am using a patterned fabric which has rows of elephants, and each row is going ever so slightly downhill.
Should I cut following the grain of fabric or the rows of elephants?
Many thanks, Annette
It is always so frustrating when a fabric is not printed straight - particularly when the pattern is very regular and you’re making a blind as there is no hiding the “drift”.
I have returned fabric to manufacturers in the past for this very reason as it can ruin a finished blind.
You have to cut straight to the side edge (if you cut straight to pattern along the top, the elephants will be on the wonk down the sides). I have “pulled" a fabric into shape before for a pair of curtains but I would not do this for a blind as it may not stay where you pulled it and the blind could twist back when made.
Can you live with this “drift”? If so, cut straight with the edges. If not, return the fabric to the seller. Sadly, there is no way round this problem other than choosing an alternative fabric. You have my sympathy as this is one of my pet hates with fabrics.
Good luck and please send us a photo of the finished blind. Cindy
Hi, really helpful set of tutorials, thank you. My next blind will be over two metres wide, so I'll need to join the lining fabric and face fabric, which I think I understand how to avoid too many hems overlapping, but how would you recommend joining the interlining? Would I simply machine sew them together down the centre? Or is there a better stitch to avoid an overlap? Thanks very much
For interlining, to avoid bulk we butt the interlining panels up against each other, herringbone stitch then together. Then lay a strip of lining down the join and straight machine stitch it down each side.
Note for blackout we would lay one panel over the other then straight machine stitch.
Thank you for your great tutorial, this is the third Roman blind I am making. I noted that from one of your photos you made a blind using Peony & Sage fabric, Falling Feathers in the Duck Egg colour way. I am slightly colour blind and am having a problem finding a matching Duck Egg thread, would you be able to advise what one you used please as I am beginning to pull my hair out!
I'm afraid we don't know which one we used and haven't got any of that fabric in the workroom. You'll need to take a sample of the fabric into a haberdashery shop with a range of threads and I'm sure a staff member will be able to help you colour match.
if you are stitching through the combined blackout/interliner in all these places - my past experience with this fabric is there are many pinholes of light showing through at every stitch. In my innocence in making a previous blind with interlining I lockstitched it as for curtains. If I did this locking just the fluffy layer would it hold it still?
No the front face fabric will sag and not pull up evenly. You have to stab stitch through all the layers.