How to make -
Blackout Roman Blind
Step 4: Calculate Lining & Blackout Qty
Printable Worksheet
Printable Worksheet

This tutorial is based on using one width of fabric or lining to make a blind. Lining is usually approx 137cm wide, so most blinds less than 137cm wide will only need one width of lining (check your lining width).

The lining panel is cut to the following size to make the blind:

If you are using rod pocket tape RPA=0, please see ROD POCKET TAPE notes below.


The minimum amount of lining required to make a single width roman blind is the


PRO TIP: Add at least an extra 6cm trimming allowance to the cut drop to ensure that the lining can be cut square during the making process.

The Blackout panel is cut to following size to make the blind: For COMBINED BLACKOUT/INTERLINER please see the extra instructions at the bottom of the page.


The minimum amount of Blackout required to make a single width roman blind is


PRO TIP: Add at least an extra 6cm trimming allowance to the cut drop to ensure that the blackout can be cut square during the making process.


If you are using Rod Pocket Tape you will need to disregard the rod pocket allowance as you will not be making the rod pockets out of the lining. Therefore the ROD POCKET ALLOWANCE (RPA) = 0 when calculating the LINING CUT DROP.

COMBINED Blackout/Interliner is cut to a different size to standard Blackout to make the blind. Due to it's thickness it is not folded into the hem. It is cut slightly (2mm) narrower and shorter than the blind to fit inside the fabric. The cut size is:


The minimum amount of Combined Blackout/Interliner required to make a single width Roman blind is


PRO TIP: Add at least an extra 6cm trimming allowance to the cut drop to ensure that the blackout can be cut square during the making process.

Questions & Comments


Hi there

Have you any tips for when joining lining and making the pocket rods. Should I do french seam on the join to avoid the rods getting stuck or shoud it be ok

Many thanks Angela


My blind will be very wide - nearly 3m - so i'll be using 3 widths of fabric. I will use 3 widths of the combined blackout/interlining but clearly i can't sew these together as I will the lining. Are there any tips for minimising the evidence of the joins when the blind is down?

Thank you!


Hi Mimi

You are very brave undertaking such a wide blind! Unless you have a flat space where you can keep everything fully flat and straight at all times, you may encounter problems.

When I join combined blackout interlining I but the edges against each other and herringbone stitch them together. I then lay a 4 cm strip of blackout over the top of the join and machine stitch down each side.

Good luck with your project


Julia Bensley

I’m making two blinds with blackout lining for a bedroom and have some separate interlining (domette) - I’d appreciate your advice on whether I should use it as well. I wish I’d bought the combined blackout interlining now -I didn’t know of this until I used your tutorials. Would the four layers make the blinds too bulky?


Hi Julia No problem - this is what I would do…..

- Do not use 4 layers, this will make it far too bulky.

- Use your interlining and make the the lining panel with blackout rather than standard lining as in videos. The method is exactly the same.

- Blackout is slightly harder to make your lining panel with as it can’t be pressed into shape as you do with standard lining, so your 2 cm side and bottom folds may need to be tacked in place.

- Do not press the rod pockets in place. Again, you may need to tack them together before machine stitching.

- Other than that, just follow the method and you should be fine. You will end up with lines if pinpricks in the blackout from the rod pockets, that’s why our tutorial doesn’t do it this way. 

Good luck with your project. Cindy


Hello, thank you so much for the comprehensive tutorial. What gsm weight combined blackout/interliner do you use in a blind? Do you have a preferred or recommended brand/supplier?


We use 3 Pass Blackout PolyCotton Fleece, weight of 380-400gsm. We do not buy a particular brand but from trade wholesalers.


Is it possible to make a 'relaxed' style roman blind without the rods and still use blackout lining? Or would the lining be too stiff for it to work?

Thank you


I would suggest that a relaxed roman blind works best with soft, floppy fabrics and you are very right to say that blackout is rubbery and stiffer (even the best quality ones). To be honest I have not made one with blackout so cannot say for sure that it would not work but my instinct would be not to if I was making one. You can get dim out lining which is definitely softer and might be more suitable but best to get a sample first and see what you think.

I would also use 1 rod in the bottom section to hold the blind at it’s width otherwise the sides will pull in. Hope that helps. Cindy 


Does this mean a combined blackout/ interliner does this not require hemming?



Yes if you look at STEP 6b and the differences for combined blackout interlining, you will see we do not fold it into the hem because it is too bulky.


I am making a roman blind for a bathroom with a shower, where it will get steamy, but not splashed. I've found a woven outdoor fabric which is 100% acrylic and water resistant which sews well.

I'm not sure which lining to go with. My 100% cotton 135gsm teflon coated option lets prinpricks of light through. Would I be better adding a separate layer of blackout between the fabrics (a nicer finish, but I'm assuming more layers are bad in terms of quick drying, even though blackout is 100% polyester), or just making the lining and rod pockets from blackout which will be problematic to iron when making up?


We've made lots of blinds for bathrooms and don't vary our methods for that room. Your bathroom sounds very damp so your fabric choice seems very sensible.

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