How to make -
Blackout Roman Blind
Step 11: String & Hang
Printable Worksheet
Printable Worksheet


  • Fix the headrail into place.
  • Unwind all the cord from the cord spools, so the cords hang down.
  • Thread each cord down through the appropriate column of rings on the back of the blind and secure the cord to the bottom ring/breakout with an adjustable toggle. Check if there is any applicable child safety legislation in your country. Make sure you string your blind in accordance with the legislation and the instructions in your kit.
  • Fix the blind in place by pressing the (velcro) blind loop fastening to the headrail hook fastening.
  • Wind the blind up with the chain.
  • Just as the blind starts to pull up, stop.
  • Check all the cords on the back are pulled taught. If not adjust the toggles so they are taught and the blind is level.
  • Trim off any excess cord below the toggles (leave approx 10cm)
  • With regard to the chain loop hanging down. Check if there is any applicable child safety legislation in your country. Make sure your chain is fitted in accordance with the legislation and the instructions in your kit.


  • Fix the batten into place using screws or brackets if necessary.
  • Cut a length of cord for each column of rings approximately twice the length of the blind plus the blind width.
  • Attach a cord to each bottom ring/breakout and thread up through the rings/breakouts, through the eyelet of the batten directly above and then across through the eyelets along the batten to the side the blind will be pulled from. Check if there is any applicable child safety legislation in your country. Make sure you string your blind in accordance with the legislation and the instructions in your kit.
  • Press the (velcro) blind loop fastening to the batten hook fastening to hold the blind in place.
  • The cords will now be hanging down to the side of the blind and of varying lengths.
  • Attach an acorn to the cords. Trim the loose ends. (check if there is any applicable child safety legislation in your country, for example some rules may require an unknotted acorn that releases cord under pressure breaking any cord loops, a break away tassel may also be required further up to from which a single cord hangs.)
  • Fix a cleat at a convienient height at the side of the window. (check if there is any applicable child safety legislation in your country, for example some rules require that the cleat must be 150cms from the floor and accumulate all/most of the cord – only a single cord of no more than 20cms can hang below the cleat.)
  • Pull the blind up and secure in place by winding the cord around the cleat.

If you have used rod pocket tape rather than make traditional rod pockets, you may be threading the cords through the fabric loops on the tape rather than brass rings.

Questions & Comments

Zoe Ashe

Hi, I am still planning my blind. I have some lovely material from Laura Ashley which shut in the Uk, villandry upholstery ribbed velvet. I want to make a wider than the window blind, perhaps about 20cm wider than the window and have got my blackout material. I have found a fabric which I want to use either side of my velvet which doesn’t really matter as I have large silk curtains as well which will mostly hide the fabric difference. I am concerned that the blind may not hang if I use two different fabrics (the main large middle

Panel and side add one to get the width I need). Also would there be a danger in the blind ever coming back from the dry cleaners warped if I use different fabrics. Lastly, is a cascading blind much harder to make than Roman (I still have to read instructions as my washing machine broke this week and am behind on everything!). I’m on a mobile so can’t upload my fabric images.


Hi Zoe

So, you have a whole bunch of questions here that I will try and address for you….

- Will the blind hang correctly with 2 different fabric types? It should do if all your rod pockets, cutting and joining etc. are accurate. 

- Dry cleaning? I never dry clean curtains and especially not blinds. All fabrics and linings will shrink at a different rate and it will not hang correctly again.

- Cascade blinds? No difference in the make up process, just different calculations for rod pocket calculations.

Good luck with your project



Hi Cindy, thank you so much for such in-depth instructions. This is my first time making a blackout blind. The finished blind for my daughter's nursery looks great except that when I come to draw it up it sags in the middle and doesn't fold well. I'm using a wooden batten, rod pocket tape and string as usual. I've checked the string tension is even and also tried thicker string but this has made no difference. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?


Hmmmm Joanne…This is a tricky one as it’s only the first fold that isn’t right implying that it is not a cord tension issue. Couple of potential issue…

Maybe needs extra stab stitches across the width. How many cords have you used, if only 2 then you need a third in the middle as well.

Are all your rod pockets perfectly straight and at right angles?

Have you used rods?

I would go for more stabs - see if that helps.

Let us know how you get on.

Kind regards



Hi Cindy,

Thank you for the tips! It turns out I'd completely missed out the stab stitch stage (I'm blaming baby brain) and the blind is now folding up very neatly having rectified the situation.

Thanks again for fab instructions!

Best wishes,



Thank you, thank you, thank you! I have just made my first Roman blind ever with blackout. Everything went perfectly. I am a complete novice, yet my end result looks so professional (if I don’t say myself). Over the moon. Now about to make 4 more. Lets hope it wasn’t beginners luck. Your videos and instructions were so easy to follow. Thank you again. X


Hi Emma. So pleased to hear and that is exactly what we wanted- for sewers of all levels to be able to make professional furnishings for their home. 

Please send us a pic as we live to see your names.

Keep sewing and good luck with your next projects.

Cindy :) 



Many companies sell two winder options for their Roman Blind Headrails. Either 1:1 or 1:4

It is difficult to tell the weight of the fabric until it is made up and on the headrail!

Do you have any guide for working out which weight you should use for what winder?

Thank you for all your help


Hi Anna

I tend to use 1:4 ratio on most of my blinds. The 1:1 is suitable for smaller, lined blinds but anything interlined and over 90cm wide, I’d go for 1:4




I am a reasonably competent dress maker and have made roman blinds before. I wanted to make some blackout blinds and so was wondering whether or not it would be worth buying the video tutorial. I cannot tell you how pleased I am that I did! Your written instructions are good, but being able to watch (and re-watch where needed!) each step was invaluable. The blind I have made looks really professional, hangs beautifully and lets in very little light, which is just what I wanted. Thank you.


Hi, Cindy

The stand that you use for stringing and testing the blinds is a very useful piece of equipment. Could you tell me where i could buy one from please.


This is the stand  HERE You will need 2 brackets to hold the blind on it like THIS BRACKET . Because the headrail passes in front of the post you may have to drill another hole in each bracket 

A pair of brackets  HERE a bit cheaper.


Hi, Surely if you are stab stitching through all layers on the blind, there will be small holes in the blackout and light will show through all of these.


Yes, there will be pinpricks of light at the stab stitches (you have to join the layers together though so you cant avoid this). There will also be light seepage around the edges of the blind as well.

Zoe Ashe

I have one bought from a shop made in this way and it is so much better than what I did machining the rod pocket tape on a blind I made.

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