How to make -
Hand Pleated Interlined Curtains
Materials
  • - Fabric
  • - Lining
  • - Interlining
  • - Thread
  • - Buckram
  • - Weights
  • - Curtain Hooks
  • Tools
  • - Sewing Machine
  • - Needles
  • - Pins
  • - Clamps
  • - Scissors
  • - Set Square
  • - Straight Edge
  • - Invisible Marker
  • Watch the videos for full step by step tution of the instructions and expert tips from the workshop

    Video User Comments

    I love your videos they have given me the confidence to make my own curtains and blinds....Julie

    Your videos are so good, thank you…..Alex

    Once again, I should say that I think the video tutorials are extremely well done. Although I've been sewing for years I've learnt lots of techniques that are new to me and that give a much more professional finish........Heather

    Thank you for such brilliant tutorials and videos....... ....Barbara

    I have absolutely loved your videos for curtain making, I have learnt so much from you….Charlotte

    Step 9b: Form the Hand Pleats
    Printable Worksheet
    Printable Instructions

    FORM THE DOUBLE (PINCH) PLEATS

    • Lay the curtain down, right side facing up.
    • Hold the pleat flap up.
    • Push the centre of the pleat flap down so it touches the sewn in line at the back, causing the sides of the pleat to spread outwards.
    • Bring the two sides up together to meet.
    • Pinch the bottom of the pleat (at the bottom of the buckram)
    • Sew the pinch in place, under the buckram.
    • At the top of the pleat sew the pushed down centre to the back of the pleat.
    • Repeat for each pleat.
    This video shows you
    • How to fold a double pleat
    • How to pinch and stitch the bottom of the pleat
    • How to stitch the top of the pleat
    • How to start and finish your stitches

    FORM THE TRIPLE PLEATS

    • Lay the curtain down, right side facing up.
    • Hold the pleat flap up.
    • Push the centre of the pleat flap down so the sides of the pleat start to spread outwards either side.
    • Continue pushing down until the flaps spreading outwards either side are the same size as the flap you are holding vertically
    • With the vertical flap touching the back of the pleat, pull the 2 sides up along side, so all 3 folds are the same height
    • Stitch all 3 folds together at the base of the buckram.
    • At the top of the pleat either side of the middle fold, stitch the V pinch point to the curtain heading behind.
    • Repeat for each pleat.
    This video shows you
    • How to fold a triple pleat
    • How to pinch and stitch the bottom of the pleat
    • How to stitch the top of the pleat
    • How to start and finish your stitches so you cant see them

    FORM THE GOBLET PLEATS

    • Lay the curtain down, right side facing up.
    • Put a stitch 0.5cm either side of the centre of the pleat at the top of the curtain to help hold the shape of the pleat.
    • At the base of the buckram push the centre of the pleat flap down so it touches the sewn in line at the back, causing the sides of the pleat to spread outwards.
    • Pinch and pull up the middle slightly just below the buckram.
    • Pull the 2 sides up along side, so all 3 folds are the same height
    • Stitch all 3 folds together at the base of the buckram.
    • Roll a length of buckram and insert into the pleat fold to hold it in a cylindrical shape.
    • Stuff the pleat with wadding
    • Make a top cap by ironing a piece of fabric onto some fusible buckram and cutting a disc to insert into the top of the pleat.
    • Repeat for each pleat.
    This video shows you
    • How to fold a goblet pleat
    • How to pinch and stitch the bottom of the pleat
    • How to stitch the top of the pleat
    • How to stuff and shape the goblet pleat
    • How to make a top cap
    • Where to stitch the top
    • How to start and finish your stitches so you cant see them

    FORM THE CARTRIDGE PLEATS

    • Lay the curtain down, right side facing up.
    • Put a stitch 0.5cm either side of the centre of the pleat at the top of the curtain to help hold the shape of the pleat.
    • Roll a length of buckram and insert into the pleat fold to hold it in a cylindrical shape.
    • Stuff the pleat with wadding
    • Make a top cap by ironing a piece of fabric onto some fusible buckram and cutting a disc to insert into the top of the pleat.
    • Repeat for each pleat.
    This video shows you
    • How to form a cartridge pleat
    • How to stitch the top of the cartridge pleat
    • How to stuff and shape the cartridget pleat
    • How to make a top cap
    • Where to stitch the top
    • How to start and finish your stitches

    Extra Help & Comments

    Sew Helpful
    Post your questions & comments here, we will reply so everyone can see the answer.
    Elen
    Hi, loving your incredibly helpful tutorial.

    I'm making quite heavy interlined curtains for a draughty bay window. Because of the sheer weight of the total fabric, the price and the work involved, i've gone for quite a low fullness ratio - it'll be 1.6 or 1.7 ish. I'm wondering what kind of pleat would be best under these circumstances. Or would it be best to use heading tape? Have you got any advice? Thanks!
    Sew Helpful
    With a Tab top or eyelet heading you can get away with a less fullness, but this wont work in a bay.

    Pencil pleat (heading tape) does not look good if the fullness ratio is less than 2.2.

    Hand pleated -the pleats will be small and the gaps large with that fullness ratio. Interlined curtains due to their bulk do not make up well with small dainty pleats.

    We would not make up with those fullness ratios. We think  you need more fabric. When cost is an issue we always recommend going for a cheaper fabric but making up well. We never skimp on the fullness of fabric. 
    Elen
    Belated thanks for your response. Just finding the mental energy to get back to curtain making!! More fabric it is then...
    Maggie
    Thank you so much for your great tutorials. Are you using a walking foot when you sew the pleats?
    Sew Helpful
    Yes I am in the videos, you don't have to use one, but it does help with slippage between the layers.
    Jennifer
    Should the return and the leading edge always be the same amount?

    My pole length is 360cm do you still recommend 8 cm for this length of pole?

    Thank you
    Sew Helpful
    That’s how we do it, you can vary it but the longer you make them the flappier they get.

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