How to make -
Hand Pleated Interlined Curtains
  •   Sewing Machine
  • - Tape Measure
  • - Needles
  • - Pins
  • - Scissors
  • - Set Square
  • - Straight Edge
  •   Pencil
  • - Vanishing Marker
  • - Clamps
  • Step 6b: Insert Interlining & Hem Fabric


    The interlining is attached to the fabric by interlocking down the curtain length every half width and folding in the fabric at the side turns, hem and heading, then stitching in place.


    • Lay the fabric on the work table wrong side facing up and grip it in place along the bottom and side to hold it in place. Make sure you smooth the fabric out and keep everything straight.
    • Lay the interlining on the fabric with the interlining sitting 5cm above the bottom edge of the fabric (You will eventually trim the interlining down to sit either 10cm (full length curtain) or 8cm (sill length curtain) up from the bottom edge of the fabric).
    • Align the interlining with the edge of the fabric.
    • Ensure the interlining is sitting flat, straight and is aligned.
    • With a long single knotted thread lock the interlining to the fabric every half width across the fabric panel but not at the sides (do not avoid this stage as it links all the layers together and makes the interlining form 1 with the face fabric)
    • Start the locking stitch just above where the bottom of the hem will be and end just below where the top of the curtain will be.
    • Continue doing this at each full and half width across the whole curtain. (You do not do the side edges)
    • Once you have completed this stage – again check that layers are smooth.
    • Now trim the interlining so it is 10cm (full length curtain) or 8cm (sill length curtain) up from the bottom edge of the fabric.
    This video shows you
    • How to insert the interlining.
    • How to stitch the locking in stitch.
    • How to trim the bottom of the interlining.


    • On one side about 30cm up from the bottom edge of the panel, fold in a 5cm side turn of both layers of fabric and interlining .
    • Mark with a pin where the bottom corner of your curtain will be (20cm or 16 cm up from the bottom of the panel depending on hem depth and 5cm in from the edge)
    • Trim out the bulk of interlining at this corner. (see video)
    • If you have the whole curtain on the table, you can do the same with the other corner now, otherwise finish this side first before working on the other.
    • Sew a weight onto the interlining ONLY at the marked corner.
    • Then sew more weights onto the very bottom of the face fabric (wrong side) every full width and half width across the panel. These will sit right at the bottom of the curtain once you fold up your double hem.
    • Again at the other corner, sew a weight into the corner onto the interlining ONLY, positioned 20cm or 16 cm up (dependent on hem size) and 5cm in from the edge of the opened out panel (ie where the curtain corner will be).
    • Trim out the bulk of interlining at this corner also.


    • On one side, fold the panel corner in across the curtain corner (this will form the first part of the mitre - see video)
    • Fold a side turn in 5cm, both layers of interlining and face fabric and pin in place.
    • If required trim away any excess interlining so it is inline with the fabric edge after folding.
    • Herringbone stitch in place down the side. (start the stitch a few cms below where the bottom of the buckram will be )
    • Repeat on the other side.
    This video shows you
    • How to remove bulk from the corners.
    • How to fold the corner.
    • How to position and sew in weights.
    • How to fold and pin the side turns.
    • How to trim the interlining
    This video shows you
    • How to Herringbone stich the sides
    • What to do if your interlining and fabric dont line up on the far side.
    • How to deal with the second corner.

    Questions & Comments


    Hi Cindy.

    Thank you for your reply to my previous question about blackout lining.

    I am not interring the bedroom curtains , do you put lining over the blackout lining? I am thinking the curtains will look nicer with a lining to cover the blackout lining. I am really enjoying your video and making my curtains.

    Thanks again



    If I am using blackout, I use instead of the lining. It doesn’t have the softness and drape to sit into the face fabric like an interlining which is designed to add volume and give a more sumptuous appearance.

    If you want your curtains to be blackout, I would follow the lined tutorial and use blackout instead of standard lining. You will not be able to press the seams open on blackout so I fold both to one side.

    Good luck with your project. Cindy


    Hi Cindy.

    I have bought the video for 3 months for interlined pinch pleat curtains, it is excellent and I am really enjoying making my curtains. I am planning on making some for our bedroom but want to use blackout lining instead of interlining do you still lock stitch the blackout lining like the interlining?

    Thanks .



    That’s great to hear that you are enjoying making your own curtains. I love sewing, particularly hand stitching, and it’s great to see the fruits of your labour in a beautiful curtain.

    You replace cotton lining with blackout lining , I presume that you are not interlining the bedroom curtains? so there is no need to lock stitch.

    Keep on sewing and please send us pics.Cindy

    Judy izatt

    Do curtains that are extra long (ie puddling in the floor) still need weights?


    That is a good question. I put weights in the bottom of all my curtains regardless of puddling or not but I don’t suppose it is as important as ones that simply hang. Cindy


    Thank you. I will trim as you suggest as I have plenty of curtain width. Thank you for your excellent videos too.


    My patterned fabric has a wide selvedge. I have 2 full width panels to each full length curtain. Should I cut it off before doing side folds and herringbone?


    You can trim down the side fold if you have an excess of fabric as you only require 5cm for the side fold. Just make sure that you have 2cm of pattered fabric (if using) showing on the side fold so that when you stitch the lining in place later (it will sit in 2cm from the edge of the curtain) you can’t see the white selvedge edge.

    Penny D

    the selvedges on my fabric on one side are about 8cms and on the other are 6cms ... how does that work 5cm side turns ?


    Trim the sides of the fabric panel so there is 3cm of selvedge beyond the pattern. This will be hidden behind the lining when it is attached.

    Penny D

    perfect thank you



    I’m planning to use a wide width 300cm fabric. My calculations (verified by your calculator) are telling me to use 1 width per curtain.

    My lining and interlining are standard 137 widths, would you recommend stitching 3 OR 4 lines of interlining to the fabric? For example 3 lines at equal intervals of 75cm, 150cm and 225cm? (The linings will be 2 panels plus just 26cm per curtain).



    We would interlock every half width approx every 60 to 70cm across the panel.


    The width of my interlining is wider than the width of the curtain fabric so when made-up and attached to the curtain fabric, the seams will not match. Does it matter if the seams don't match-up?


    No it doesn't matter.


    Hi, you couldn't tell me what type of needle you are using when doing the herringbone stitch and where I might buy some - being longer and curved makes it look easier to sew with. Many thanks, am finding the videos very helpful. Chris


    It's a size 7 long darner, about 5.8cm long.


    When interlocking the interlining to the face fabric, do you loop the thread between stitches? If so, how does this form as “one” with the face fabric? It sees that the two would separate when hanging.


    Have you watched the video? How we do it is demonstrated there.


    Do you recommend any particular weights? I have come across lead weight tape for curtain making, is this as effective as individual weights? Thanks


    We use the fabric covered weights (as in the videos) for our customers curtains. You can use the lead tape in lined curtains, we tend to use it more for shears.


    Can you tell me where to buy the curtain table clamps you use? I only have some very rough sharp metal ones from Merrick and Day, yours look kinder to the fabric....thanks


    Try E-Bay and search for spring clamps.


    Hi, is the interlining sewed only to the fabric panel and not the lining?



    At this stage we are joining the interlining to the fabric. We join the lining to the completed panel later in STEP 7.


    For my full length curtains I have allowed 10 cm for each curtain hem allowance.

    If I fold the hem twice 10 cm first time and 10 cm second time will I not be using 20 cm for the hem allowance for each curtain?

    By doing this will my finished curtain length not be short by 10cm?


    Yes you are using 20cm to make the hem.

    If you go back to STEP 3 you will see in the fabric quantity calculation the hem allowance was 20cm (double 10cm hem). 

    So you should have allowed 20cm for the hem in your fabric quantity and fabric cut drop calculations.


    I'm using my dining room table to work but we need it for meal times! Is there a good way to move/store everything without messing it up?

    If I am making short curtains with 2x8cm hem, should the side fold be 4cm instead of 5 to make it match up better?

    1. I’m afraid you just have to fold it up carefully
    2. No the side turns 5cm regardless
    Heather Farley

    I am joining 1.5 widths of fabric interlining and lining for each curtain. Would you have all the joins on the same side of the curtain or stagger the interlining by laying it the other way to avoid the joins sitting on top of each other and looking too bulky?


    You can do that if you have particularly bulky fabric and interlining. We do not generally find the need to do it that way in the workroom. 

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